im in the process of adding front hydraulics to my 4510. gonna T into the tubing for the lift/tilt supply oil, use a closed center 3 position 12vlt solenoid valve, and return into the return line. hoping to be able to run a log splitter and grapple bucket. does anyone see any issues going this route?
adding aux hyd to 4510
- Thread starter bobhaas
- Start date
I can't see why it won't work.
I assume you don't have an extra segment in your control block for aux hydraulics?
The only issue is how to lock your hydraulics on to keep the splitter running if you wanted to operate it out of the machine.
I assume you don't have an extra segment in your control block for aux hydraulics?
The only issue is how to lock your hydraulics on to keep the splitter running if you wanted to operate it out of the machine.
I'm modifying a 3pt splitter I built a few years ago. To me, sitting in the seat is the only way to split wood. Having to get off the skidsteer to split wood is pointless . I've also got a gas splitter for that. Lol. The only thing I may encounter using a solenoid valve is not being able to creep the action. Only control I'll have is the throttle.
I can't see why it won't work like that.
It will take some time to get used to the controlling between splitter and arm to make adjustments but it should work all the same.
The ideal way is to have aux hydraulics, but you work with what you can.
Bobhaas, I am in the process of the same thing on my 4510. My plan is to tap in with a power beyond sleeve on the main control valve (just like the oem aux hydraulics) run to a flow control valve, then to a 12v 3 way closed center directional control valve. I want to hook up to a truck plow and be able to swing it. I will control this with a dirt bike kill switch on each T bar. I really wanted the oem valve with foot pedals, but $800 was too much. I got the valves for $200, haven't got hoses yet. My only issue is I am not positive that closed center is what I need. If it is supposed to be open center then all my flow will dead head when I let go of the button. I am looking to find out if the oem aux valve is open or closed center. Let me know if you see a flaw in my plan. I think your setup will work, you might want to add a needle valve for controlling flow, just have it in the cab. Chris
I got this finished as well. I bought a power beyond sleeve, foot pedals, and a 12v control valve, (open to tank center -important) and all the hoses to get to the end of the lift arms. I found that the movement with this 12v valve is very choppy, my next plan is to incorporate flow valves to the A and B hoses so I can slow it down a bit. But for now it moves my plow back and forth, and will smash a grapple closed if I get that finished.
vinito
Well-known member
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- Nov 19, 2015
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I don't have a need for this, but as a hypothetical I looked into it a little. What I considered is a 12V solenoid-controlled double selector valve. They are about $160 from Surplus Center (see the link). I'm not scholled up on hydraulics that well really and I get the idea that this wouldn't be perfect. But why wouldn't it work? I'm genuinely curious.
I figured that the selector valve is installed downstream from the existing control valve and you could simply flip a switch from one direction to the other for the selector to direct whichever cylinder you'd want your control valve to work. I'm probably missing something, but other than locking "the other" cylinder in whatever position it is in while you're using the selected one, it seems like a convenient way to have progressive control of two different things with one control valve.
