610 engine removal with sheave still on?

[alchemysa]

How hard is it to remove the engine with the fixed half of the drive sheave still attached?
I've tried heat, banging, and pullers but the thing still wont budge off the engine. As I was eventually going to remove the engine for an overhaul anyway I'm now thinking I'll just leave it attached until the donk comes out. But is this possible? It looks a pretty tight fit. I was planning on removing the ROPS then using an overhead chain hoist to lift the engine, then drag the skid steer backwards so the engine exits out the front.

 

[6brnorma]

I've never heard of it being done…….anything is possible. If you will notice, there is a small cut out at the rear just for the short portion of the crank to pass for removal…….I have my doubts. Tell me the steps and equipment you are using to pull the sheave.

 

[alchemysa]

I've never heard of it being done…….anything is possible. If you will notice, there is a small cut out at the rear just for the short portion of the crank to pass for removal…….I have my doubts. Tell me the steps and equipment you are using to pull the sheave.

I read any posts I could find about removing the sheave. I screwed a couple of bolts into the sheave (not too deeply) then attached a puller that I made myself. The puller had rings on the end that looped over the bolts. (Unfortunately I did not have a bearing puller to put behind the bolts). I used a piece of pipe to ensure the puller was centred on the inner retainer bolt. (The washer was removed). I applied heat with a butane torch but I was probably a bit cautious with this. I tapped with a hammer dozens of times. I tried this about 4 times over a few days. Eventually I tightened the puller enough to snap one of the bolts, so now I have a piece of bolt in the sheave. I havent tried to remove it yet.

 

[6brnorma]

I read any posts I could find about removing the sheave. I screwed a couple of bolts into the sheave (not too deeply) then attached a puller that I made myself. The puller had rings on the end that looped over the bolts. (Unfortunately I did not have a bearing puller to put behind the bolts). I used a piece of pipe to ensure the puller was centred on the inner retainer bolt. (The washer was removed). I applied heat with a butane torch but I was probably a bit cautious with this. I tapped with a hammer dozens of times. I tried this about 4 times over a few days. Eventually I tightened the puller enough to snap one of the bolts, so now I have a piece of bolt in the sheave. I havent tried to remove it yet.

OK………Well, I guess most of this will be for the benefit of anyone that reads this thread in the future. So, mistake number one was not having the small bolts "shouldered" up to the sheave to give it more strength when applying pressure. They (obviously) will snap if they are not. I'm not sure how you had the pipe set up…..hopefully the puller was not pressing against both ends of the pipe? So……..now to fix the problem…….here's what I would do. File or grind the end of the broken bolt flat……use a small "LEFT" hand drill bit to bore a center hole in the bolt……hopefully it will come out with the bit but if not use an 'easy out' to remove it. It should not be too difficult to get out. Then start over with two small bolts that will shoulder up to the sheave……find a bearing splitter to use behind the two bolts set up with a pressure screw that will reach the crank bolt. I generally drill a small indentation in the head to guide the pressure screw better. Then apply heat…….lots of heat…..you can't apply too much heat with butane. With pressure, enough heat and some smacks from a rubber mallet……she will come off. DO NOT apply pressure to the outside edges of the sheave…….it is cast and WILL break. Be patience and don't hesitate to ask questions.

 

[6brnorma]

OK………Well, I guess most of this will be for the benefit of anyone that reads this thread in the future. So, mistake number one was not having the small bolts "shouldered" up to the sheave to give it more strength when applying pressure. They (obviously) will snap if they are not. I'm not sure how you had the pipe set up…..hopefully the puller was not pressing against both ends of the pipe? So……..now to fix the problem…….here's what I would do. File or grind the end of the broken bolt flat……use a small "LEFT" hand drill bit to bore a center hole in the bolt……hopefully it will come out with the bit but if not use an 'easy out' to remove it. It should not be too difficult to get out. Then start over with two small bolts that will shoulder up to the sheave……find a bearing splitter to use behind the two bolts set up with a pressure screw that will reach the crank bolt. I generally drill a small indentation in the head to guide the pressure screw better. Then apply heat…….lots of heat…..you can't apply too much heat with butane. With pressure, enough heat and some smacks from a rubber mallet……she will come off. DO NOT apply pressure to the outside edges of the sheave…….it is cast and WILL break. Be patience and don't hesitate to ask questions.

Also…..you said "hammer" in your post……..just to emphasize……rubber mallet ONLY. Just in case you were using an actual 'steel' hammer……don't.