Bobcat S250 Lift cylinder eye wear?

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John11-87

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May 26, 2016
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Hello guys, I was greasing up my 2004 S250 this weekend after moving around some dirt and hauling around some wood and brush when i noticed some extreme wear where the pin goes thru the hydraulic lift cylinder eye on the left hand side of my machine, and upon looking a little more i notice that the right side has a little wear as well, but not quite as bad. The bushings welded in the Arms of the machine seem good, only minimal play on the pins, and i think with new pins it will be less that 1/16 of an inch. I called bobcat this morning and my local dealer told me 274$ for the rod eye assembly. They also said they had never seen one of these wear before. I am the only one whose had this problem? I recently purchased this machine, the first one ive ever owned, and I hope i didn't buy myself a major problem. Im planning on bringing both cylinders to work with me and milling out the centers to a bigger diameter, turning a bushing to fit my bore diameter and then pressing in new bushings that will fit new pins. Do you guys think this will work? Ive got some pictures but i cannot figure out how to get them to post. Any other tips or ideas? thanks in advance John
 
Left Rod End http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/johnrohloff89/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_182323_zpsvvr1f0gl.jpg.html
 
Left Rod End http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/johnrohloff89/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_182323_zpsvvr1f0gl.jpg.html
Right Rod End http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/johnrohloff89/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_182429_zpsb0lbhxag.jpg.html
 
Right Rod End http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/johnrohloff89/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_182429_zpsb0lbhxag.jpg.html
O_O i have never seen wear like that either, i think the previous owner didn't know what grease is used for. There is no reason why it should wear like this if it was serviced correctly by the owner.
 
O_O i have never seen wear like that either, i think the previous owner didn't know what grease is used for. There is no reason why it should wear like this if it was serviced correctly by the owner.
Thats all i can think of tazza. How else could it get worn that badly? I'm going to remove both of the cylinders tonight and machine them tomorrow. I notice that lifting on the cylinders there is a little play aswell. I may end up machine out the bottom eyes as well and giving them bushings . It's just strange all of the other pivot points on the machine are nice and tight, only minimal play. John
 
Thats all i can think of tazza. How else could it get worn that badly? I'm going to remove both of the cylinders tonight and machine them tomorrow. I notice that lifting on the cylinders there is a little play aswell. I may end up machine out the bottom eyes as well and giving them bushings . It's just strange all of the other pivot points on the machine are nice and tight, only minimal play. John
Got both of the cylinders out tonight after work.
Everything looks good besides the worn rod end eyes. The eyes in the bottoms on the cylinders have a little slop on the pins, but i think with new pins it wont be a problem, i would say somwhere around an 1/8 inch of slop total. Is that to much? What kind of material are these pins made out of? Im thinking of using 4140 Prehard for the new pins or 17-4 Stainless?
Im going to make them so they fit the bushings on the loader arms fairly snug, and i am also going to Tap a 1/2-13 hole in the exposed end to aid in future removal.
Should i cut a grove around diameter if the new pins for grease, or will the small amount of play be enough?
Thanks
John
 
Got both of the cylinders out tonight after work.
Everything looks good besides the worn rod end eyes. The eyes in the bottoms on the cylinders have a little slop on the pins, but i think with new pins it wont be a problem, i would say somwhere around an 1/8 inch of slop total. Is that to much? What kind of material are these pins made out of? Im thinking of using 4140 Prehard for the new pins or 17-4 Stainless?
Im going to make them so they fit the bushings on the loader arms fairly snug, and i am also going to Tap a 1/2-13 hole in the exposed end to aid in future removal.
Should i cut a grove around diameter if the new pins for grease, or will the small amount of play be enough?
Thanks
John
I never understood why they didn't put bushings in them as standard, one way to make money later on i guess.
I always used CG 4140 that wasn't hardened, it is nice to machine and you can get it heat trteated later. The bushings i made, i cut a groove around the outside and drilled 4 holes through this groove to allow grease in. You said you have a bit of wear on the lower pins, i see no reason why that wouldn't be enough to get grease in., but a small groove wouldn't be a bad idea
 
Got both of the cylinders out tonight after work.
Everything looks good besides the worn rod end eyes. The eyes in the bottoms on the cylinders have a little slop on the pins, but i think with new pins it wont be a problem, i would say somwhere around an 1/8 inch of slop total. Is that to much? What kind of material are these pins made out of? Im thinking of using 4140 Prehard for the new pins or 17-4 Stainless?
Im going to make them so they fit the bushings on the loader arms fairly snug, and i am also going to Tap a 1/2-13 hole in the exposed end to aid in future removal.
Should i cut a grove around diameter if the new pins for grease, or will the small amount of play be enough?
Thanks
John
Finally got my rod ends machined out, bushings made, then pressed in and welded and faced off. I used 17-4 Stainless H1100 grade, for the bushings. While I had the cylinders apart I also put in all new seals in both sides.
 photo 20160607_181917_zpsxev45vbo.jpg
I cut a .500 wide groove .050 deep in the center of the bushings for grease, i hope thats enough. on these top pins im running about .005 clearance between the pin OD and Rod End ID.
 photo 20160607_182000_zpsexgwc92k.jpg
Heres the new pins next to the old ones. Machined them also from 17-4 Stainless. The shorter top pins had pretty even wear all around about .015 to .020 in spots, and the bottom (longer pins) had close to .125 in spots.
 photo 20160609_184445_002_zpsnf7pejc1.jpg
Thanks for all the help guys, Ive got everything inside the machine I had to disassemble all cleaned up and pretty much back together, i should be able to finish up tomorrow. Did some touch up painting inside, made a new battery box bolt down rod. I also wrapped a couple hydraulic lines, where their coating was worn, with rubber from an old tire intertube and heavy duty zip ties. Hopefully everything works good for a while now!
John
 
Finally got my rod ends machined out, bushings made, then pressed in and welded and faced off. I used 17-4 Stainless H1100 grade, for the bushings. While I had the cylinders apart I also put in all new seals in both sides.

I cut a .500 wide groove .050 deep in the center of the bushings for grease, i hope thats enough. on these top pins im running about .005 clearance between the pin OD and Rod End ID.

Heres the new pins next to the old ones. Machined them also from 17-4 Stainless. The shorter top pins had pretty even wear all around about .015 to .020 in spots, and the bottom (longer pins) had close to .125 in spots.

Thanks for all the help guys, Ive got everything inside the machine I had to disassemble all cleaned up and pretty much back together, i should be able to finish up tomorrow. Did some touch up painting inside, made a new battery box bolt down rod. I also wrapped a couple hydraulic lines, where their coating was worn, with rubber from an old tire intertube and heavy duty zip ties. Hopefully everything works good for a while now!
John
Sure looks different to what they did before! I'ts good when you have the gear on hand to do jobs like this, saves you a fortune and you can also give as little or as much clearance as you want.
That grease groove should be more than enough.
 
Sure looks different to what they did before! I'ts good when you have the gear on hand to do jobs like this, saves you a fortune and you can also give as little or as much clearance as you want.
That grease groove should be more than enough.
I think it is really good that you were able to get all of the pins out in the first place. I have seen a few machines that were not greased often enough & greasing those pins were not possible. We had to sledge hammer those pins out, then clean them off, replace the grease fittings & push clean grease through them before putting everything back together. I do not think the bushings were all that worn, but it sure felt good to be able to grease them again. Even a little grease goes a very long way. The wear on the rod end on your cylinders appears to be from a missing shims that supposed to be installed to eliminate side to side shifting; sometimes they are metal / steel, sometimes they are plastic. If you can smooth the wear grooves down, you can probably find / make / install a few shims. Doing something like that may not seem overly important, but just think of the amount of dirt that will also be limited from entering into the joint, too.
 
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