Lx865 hydraulic issues

[Crash]

I have a lx865, and when I was running it last time it's started puking oil out of the gearbox vent(fill neck)... When I pulled the dipstick it sent a geyser of oil from there... I parked it in the garage and it's since left a flood on my floor of oil... The hydraulic tank doesn't have any oil in it now that I can see... Any ideas of what's going on before it takes the ride to the dealer... Shouldn't the gearbox be separate from the hydraulic fluid? Thanks for any help!

 

[Mike10]

The output shaft seal on the hydrostat motor which attaches to the gearbox is where the oil in leaking from to get into the gearbox. Have the seal replaced on both motors.

 

[Mike10]

The output shaft seal on the hydrostat motor which attaches to the gearbox is where the oil in leaking from to get into the gearbox. Have the seal replaced on both motors.

Perhaps I misunderstood where the oil was going. Now that I reread your post I think you mean the engine gearbox and not the chaincase gearbox. The problem is still the same only now you will need to remove the hydrostat pumps and replace the input shaft seals.

 

[Crash]

Perhaps I misunderstood where the oil was going. Now that I reread your post I think you mean the engine gearbox and not the chaincase gearbox. The problem is still the same only now you will need to remove the hydrostat pumps and replace the input shaft seals.

I might have my names wrong... It's coming out of the dipstick under the seat and the fill tube/breather for that also... Would this relate back to why a few months ago I was noticing my hydraulics getting weaker as the machine got run longer? Thanks for the help!

 

[Mike10]

I might have my names wrong... It's coming out of the dipstick under the seat and the fill tube/breather for that also... Would this relate back to why a few months ago I was noticing my hydraulics getting weaker as the machine got run longer? Thanks for the help!

Heat is probably the only connection between the two problems. The hydrostat pump seals originally installed in the LX machines were made of a material that would get hard when exposed to heat. The oil in the hydrostat system is basically in a closed loop circuit with little leakage and thus little replacement of hot oil for cooler oil. Later machines have valves installed in the circuit to bleed some of the hot oil out so the system would run cooler.
If your hydraulics, boom and bucket, are getting weaker I would look at the hydraulic pump and reseal. Since the hydro pumps will need to be removed for seal replacement I would also reseal the hydraulic pump. Neither job requires alot of expensive parts but does take some time to perform.

 

[Crash]

Heat is probably the only connection between the two problems. The hydrostat pump seals originally installed in the LX machines were made of a material that would get hard when exposed to heat. The oil in the hydrostat system is basically in a closed loop circuit with little leakage and thus little replacement of hot oil for cooler oil. Later machines have valves installed in the circuit to bleed some of the hot oil out so the system would run cooler.
If your hydraulics, boom and bucket, are getting weaker I would look at the hydraulic pump and reseal. Since the hydro pumps will need to be removed for seal replacement I would also reseal the hydraulic pump. Neither job requires alot of expensive parts but does take some time to perform.

So I just got off the phone with my local new holland dealer and they quoted me $4000 to do the job... I guess I'll be turning wrenches in my free time... Do I need to tilt the cab to remove the pumps easier or just go thru under the seat... All I have is an operators manual to reference and I downloaded the parts manual. Thanks

 

[Mike10]

So I just got off the phone with my local new holland dealer and they quoted me $4000 to do the job... I guess I'll be turning wrenches in my free time... Do I need to tilt the cab to remove the pumps easier or just go thru under the seat... All I have is an operators manual to reference and I downloaded the parts manual. Thanks

It is easier if you can tilt the cab but you can remove them without doing that. In my younger days that is the way I would do it. I can not comment on the quote you received because I do not know what you told them. While we all like to know what a repair will cost it is impossible to do so accurately everytime. My father would not give estimates because as he said, somebody is going to get screwed. If he made it to low he would get the short end and if he made it to high the customer got the short end.
The seals and hydraulic pump seal kit should be less then 200.00 I think. You do not need to disassemble the hydro pumps to replace the seals.
To remove the pumps you will need to raise the loader and block it under the frame, not the wheels. remove the plate in the middle of the underside of the loader. You can drain the hydraulic oil by removing the engine access panel under the engine. Remove all the lines and disconnect the linkage to the pump levers. I can not remember if you will need to remove the center neutralizing support. If you do it is just a matter of removeing the bolts from the handles to the shock and linkage. There are four bolts that hold the support in place. There are two bolts that hold the pump to the engine gearbox. The lower one must be accessed from under the loader.
Once the pumps are out you will need to remove the snaprings holding the gears to the pump shaft. There is then a snapring in the end of the pump housing holding the seal in place. Remove the snapring and pry the seal out being careful not to damage the shaft. You can take a small drill bit and drill a hole in the seal and screw a srcew into the hole and pry the seal out. When you install the new seal you need to make sure the lip does not fold under as you install it because the sealing surface of the shaft only slightly protrudes past the pump housing. A small screw driver will help work the lip over the shaft. The seal will drive in and install the snapring, the gear and its retianing rings. Try not to use a punch to install the seal but a piece of pipe the right diameter. Be sure the thrust bearing and bearing races and the spacer ring are installed before you install the seal.

 

[Crash]

It is easier if you can tilt the cab but you can remove them without doing that. In my younger days that is the way I would do it. I can not comment on the quote you received because I do not know what you told them. While we all like to know what a repair will cost it is impossible to do so accurately everytime. My father would not give estimates because as he said, somebody is going to get screwed. If he made it to low he would get the short end and if he made it to high the customer got the short end.
The seals and hydraulic pump seal kit should be less then 200.00 I think. You do not need to disassemble the hydro pumps to replace the seals.
To remove the pumps you will need to raise the loader and block it under the frame, not the wheels. remove the plate in the middle of the underside of the loader. You can drain the hydraulic oil by removing the engine access panel under the engine. Remove all the lines and disconnect the linkage to the pump levers. I can not remember if you will need to remove the center neutralizing support. If you do it is just a matter of removeing the bolts from the handles to the shock and linkage. There are four bolts that hold the support in place. There are two bolts that hold the pump to the engine gearbox. The lower one must be accessed from under the loader.
Once the pumps are out you will need to remove the snaprings holding the gears to the pump shaft. There is then a snapring in the end of the pump housing holding the seal in place. Remove the snapring and pry the seal out being careful not to damage the shaft. You can take a small drill bit and drill a hole in the seal and screw a srcew into the hole and pry the seal out. When you install the new seal you need to make sure the lip does not fold under as you install it because the sealing surface of the shaft only slightly protrudes past the pump housing. A small screw driver will help work the lip over the shaft. The seal will drive in and install the snapring, the gear and its retianing rings. Try not to use a punch to install the seal but a piece of pipe the right diameter. Be sure the thrust bearing and bearing races and the spacer ring are installed before you install the seal.

three months later, but i finally have my machine back up and running! Thanks to Mike10 for guilding me thru the process!

 

[Beni]

three months later, but i finally have my machine back up and running! Thanks to Mike10 for guilding me thru the process!

Was this a very difficult job? I have fluid coming out the 90 degree pipe vent on the top left of the bell housing.