Started plowing snow this am for the first time this year. Had not run it for a month or so, but it started right up. The last time i drove it hydralic fluid was foaming out of the fill tube so i was keeping a close eye on determining if that was going to happen again. i plowed for a couple of minutes and checked the fill tube, it was not foaming, i got back in, drove a little further, noticed the hydralics were slower than normal.??? a few more feet and the skid steer shut right down..in a hurry. all the computer lights went off. the fan, etc. works but when i turn the key all i get is a click when the starter shut be engauging. the foot control pedals are in the lock position so i could not even lower the plow. What did i wreck???
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Do you get any response from it when you try to start in service mode? You can unlock the pedals without the engine running if the switch is in run and you sit down, buckle the belt and turn the key on the pedals should unlock. Do your lights come on? Do you have a book? I will look but I think if there is a serious problem it should start in service and then die after 30 seconds.
It could be something as simple as the seat switch or belt switch.Do you get any response from it when you try to start in service mode? You can unlock the pedals without the engine running if the switch is in run and you sit down, buckle the belt and turn the key on the pedals should unlock. Do your lights come on? Do you have a book? I will look but I think if there is a serious problem it should start in service and then die after 30 seconds.
just went and tried it in "service" mode and the engine turns over.... That was good news. the lights and heater fan, etc work but none of the dashboard indicator lights?????Do you get any response from it when you try to start in service mode? You can unlock the pedals without the engine running if the switch is in run and you sit down, buckle the belt and turn the key on the pedals should unlock. Do your lights come on? Do you have a book? I will look but I think if there is a serious problem it should start in service and then die after 30 seconds.
What do you mean by "turns over"? Does it start and run ? If it does start and run in service start it in service without the belt buckled and then switch to run, if it keeps running then buckle the belt and the hydraulics should unlock and you can use it or at least get it back to the shop to work on it. If you turn the key before you switch it to service it does not work, on mine I put it on service first thing.just went and tried it in "service" mode and the engine turns over.... That was good news. the lights and heater fan, etc work but none of the dashboard indicator lights?????
Another thing, when you put it in service and turn the key to on, the eic display should light up and then go to the preheat countdown. After this you start it and then the display shows only fuel and seatbelt and brake light. Then you switch it to run buckle the belt and the brake light and belt light should go out. If it doesn't then you have something else bad. Let us know how it goes.What do you mean by "turns over"? Does it start and run ? If it does start and run in service start it in service without the belt buckled and then switch to run, if it keeps running then buckle the belt and the hydraulics should unlock and you can use it or at least get it back to the shop to work on it. If you turn the key before you switch it to service it does not work, on mine I put it on service first thing.
So, i replaced the 5 amp fuse in the motor compartment fuse box and my eic panel lights up as it should. it fired up for me for just a second and then would not restart. its sitting out in the open and it was about 5 degrees.......damn cold. put the charger on it and plugged in the tank heater and am going to try it today on my lunch hour as its supposed to be 20 degrees out. it sure seems like it dosent want to run in the cold. fired right up last summer. oh well, but the other question i have is going back to my original problem, i.e. the foamy hydralic fluid. if it has water in it, and it could, how do i drain it out? is there a drain plug on the tank? i want to replace the fluid and filter.Hmmmm. thanks.Another thing, when you put it in service and turn the key to on, the eic display should light up and then go to the preheat countdown. After this you start it and then the display shows only fuel and seatbelt and brake light. Then you switch it to run buckle the belt and the brake light and belt light should go out. If it doesn't then you have something else bad. Let us know how it goes.
The book I have says you have to drop the belly pan and remove the return line to drain the tank. The belly pan is not that big a deal but it is fairly heavy use a floor jack if you can to support it. What is in it for fuel? Do you add the anti gel ? Look at the in line filter and see how thick it is if you can. I thought when you let the hyd fluid sit in a glass it settled out clear with no water?So, i replaced the 5 amp fuse in the motor compartment fuse box and my eic panel lights up as it should. it fired up for me for just a second and then would not restart. its sitting out in the open and it was about 5 degrees.......damn cold. put the charger on it and plugged in the tank heater and am going to try it today on my lunch hour as its supposed to be 20 degrees out. it sure seems like it dosent want to run in the cold. fired right up last summer. oh well, but the other question i have is going back to my original problem, i.e. the foamy hydralic fluid. if it has water in it, and it could, how do i drain it out? is there a drain plug on the tank? i want to replace the fluid and filter.Hmmmm. thanks.
Go to your local farm store and buy a cheap hand operated transfer pump and a length of rubber hose. Remove the six screws and pull the strainer in the hydro fill, drop the hose in down to the bottom of the tank and pump the fluid out by hand. Let a little of the oil settle in a clear jar and see whats what. Might be your breather cap filter on the reservoir is clogged and not allowing oil to flow freely in and out of the tank. That was my problem. Replaced the cap and it solved most of the trouble. Still foams when it's really cold, like in the teens, due I believe to the viscosity of the oil.So, i replaced the 5 amp fuse in the motor compartment fuse box and my eic panel lights up as it should. it fired up for me for just a second and then would not restart. its sitting out in the open and it was about 5 degrees.......damn cold. put the charger on it and plugged in the tank heater and am going to try it today on my lunch hour as its supposed to be 20 degrees out. it sure seems like it dosent want to run in the cold. fired right up last summer. oh well, but the other question i have is going back to my original problem, i.e. the foamy hydralic fluid. if it has water in it, and it could, how do i drain it out? is there a drain plug on the tank? i want to replace the fluid and filter.Hmmmm. thanks.
Chip, back to my 665 problem, I switched the preheat and start relay that are below the engine room fuse panel with no change, cleaned the ground on the bell housing checked for power at the service switch in run position and at the # 4 spot on the eic board, all good there. After all of this I tried it again with nothing but a light click back by the panel. Got tired of this so I clicked the ignition switch about 10 time or more and it started. Now it seems to me that the starter solenoid has to be good because in service it always kicks in. The starter relay must be good because it made no difference when I switched them. So would you guess it might be the starter interlock relay? It doesn't start all the time first try even now I may have to click it a couple times. Any ideas would be appreciated. thanks. JerryGo to your local farm store and buy a cheap hand operated transfer pump and a length of rubber hose. Remove the six screws and pull the strainer in the hydro fill, drop the hose in down to the bottom of the tank and pump the fluid out by hand. Let a little of the oil settle in a clear jar and see whats what. Might be your breather cap filter on the reservoir is clogged and not allowing oil to flow freely in and out of the tank. That was my problem. Replaced the cap and it solved most of the trouble. Still foams when it's really cold, like in the teens, due I believe to the viscosity of the oil.
Hey Jerry, I was wondering how you were making out with that. This sounds more and more like the problem I had. What I would do at this point is take a test lamp or voltmeter and plug it in to the red/white wire that goes to the starter solenoid at the starter. Have an assistant buckle in and turn the key a few times. If you get 12v at the solenoid consistently with the key turned to start, it's the starter solenoid or motor. (Also be sure the female spade connector to the solenoid is in good shape and not cracked. Have had that happen too.) All this is a lot easier with the boom in the up and locked position, with the side panels off. The starter is a 10 minute job to pull with a 9/16 socket, ratchet and long extension. The solenoid comes apart with three screws; check the male connector for crud, the commutator disk for pitting and crud and the windings on the magnet for continuity. I don't know what the ohm spec is supposed to be, but I found a cold solder joint on the connection to the 12v in post. You can also ground the housing and put 12v to the hot pole of the motor to test that while you're at it, but be sure the motor is secured in a vice or something. Lots of torque when it spins. I use jumper cables for the juice. If you find a bad part, whatever you do, don't go to a dealer. The prices are ridiculous. Walt's tractor supply will sell you a starter for $170, which is half thye price Messick's site quotes for the solenoid alone. Let me know how it goes.Chip, back to my 665 problem, I switched the preheat and start relay that are below the engine room fuse panel with no change, cleaned the ground on the bell housing checked for power at the service switch in run position and at the # 4 spot on the eic board, all good there. After all of this I tried it again with nothing but a light click back by the panel. Got tired of this so I clicked the ignition switch about 10 time or more and it started. Now it seems to me that the starter solenoid has to be good because in service it always kicks in. The starter relay must be good because it made no difference when I switched them. So would you guess it might be the starter interlock relay? It doesn't start all the time first try even now I may have to click it a couple times. Any ideas would be appreciated. thanks. Jerry
Thanks Chip. I definitely need a assistant for a lot of this stuff. I think I'll get someone this weekend to do the key turning. I would advise anyone considering a new holland loader to measure the ceiling in their shop first. I have 9' 4" and I can't put the boom up high enough to use the lock pins and I have put the grab handles on the boom thru the ceiling trying. Today moved ice and snow for 3 hrs developed serious oil leak from steel tube line to lift cyl . JerryHey Jerry, I was wondering how you were making out with that. This sounds more and more like the problem I had. What I would do at this point is take a test lamp or voltmeter and plug it in to the red/white wire that goes to the starter solenoid at the starter. Have an assistant buckle in and turn the key a few times. If you get 12v at the solenoid consistently with the key turned to start, it's the starter solenoid or motor. (Also be sure the female spade connector to the solenoid is in good shape and not cracked. Have had that happen too.) All this is a lot easier with the boom in the up and locked position, with the side panels off. The starter is a 10 minute job to pull with a 9/16 socket, ratchet and long extension. The solenoid comes apart with three screws; check the male connector for crud, the commutator disk for pitting and crud and the windings on the magnet for continuity. I don't know what the ohm spec is supposed to be, but I found a cold solder joint on the connection to the 12v in post. You can also ground the housing and put 12v to the hot pole of the motor to test that while you're at it, but be sure the motor is secured in a vice or something. Lots of torque when it spins. I use jumper cables for the juice. If you find a bad part, whatever you do, don't go to a dealer. The prices are ridiculous. Walt's tractor supply will sell you a starter for $170, which is half thye price Messick's site quotes for the solenoid alone. Let me know how it goes.
Good idea. I will do that. thanks. I will check my oil and breather cap too. Happy New Year.Go to your local farm store and buy a cheap hand operated transfer pump and a length of rubber hose. Remove the six screws and pull the strainer in the hydro fill, drop the hose in down to the bottom of the tank and pump the fluid out by hand. Let a little of the oil settle in a clear jar and see whats what. Might be your breather cap filter on the reservoir is clogged and not allowing oil to flow freely in and out of the tank. That was my problem. Replaced the cap and it solved most of the trouble. Still foams when it's really cold, like in the teens, due I believe to the viscosity of the oil.
Got another helpful hint for ya. If you can lift the boom up far enough for the arms to be out of the way in you shop, cut a couple pieces of heavy angle steel to length and throw them over the push tubes of the lift cyls so that they wont creep down on you. I do this with my Cat loader.Good idea. I will do that. thanks. I will check my oil and breather cap too. Happy New Year.
Just FYI. I had to pull the belly pan on the LX565, and while I was down there I took a look at the hydro reservoir. Pulling the pan isn't going to help to drain it. No way to get to the bottom of the sump. The best way is as I described with a pump, or pull the control valve cover up front and disconnect the gear pump inlet.Got another helpful hint for ya. If you can lift the boom up far enough for the arms to be out of the way in you shop, cut a couple pieces of heavy angle steel to length and throw them over the push tubes of the lift cyls so that they wont creep down on you. I do this with my Cat loader.
Thanks for the info. I was not looking forward to pulling the pan. I did that once and getting it back on was a pain....Just FYI. I had to pull the belly pan on the LX565, and while I was down there I took a look at the hydro reservoir. Pulling the pan isn't going to help to drain it. No way to get to the bottom of the sump. The best way is as I described with a pump, or pull the control valve cover up front and disconnect the gear pump inlet.
Good morning,regarding your starting problem,i had a problem starting my john deere 6675,new holland made them for deere,so everything except engine is same.I replaced the starter interlock relay becouse starter stayed engaged after engine is running ,the relay switch would hay up and not release sending constant 12 volts to starter,to bad i replaced every thing else in starting system to figure it out hope this helps ,also always keep a fire extingusher in skid ,save my skid when hydrolic line blew spraying oil on exhoust manifold started fire ,i got it out right away just started to melt plastick fan if i didnt have that it would have been toast.Thanks for the info. I was not looking forward to pulling the pan. I did that once and getting it back on was a pain....
In my case I thought the interlock was good because I could feel and hear it click it just was not making contact inside. once changed and problem is gone. good idea on the fire ex I think I will go out and put one in there.Good morning,regarding your starting problem,i had a problem starting my john deere 6675,new holland made them for deere,so everything except engine is same.I replaced the starter interlock relay becouse starter stayed engaged after engine is running ,the relay switch would hay up and not release sending constant 12 volts to starter,to bad i replaced every thing else in starting system to figure it out hope this helps ,also always keep a fire extingusher in skid ,save my skid when hydrolic line blew spraying oil on exhoust manifold started fire ,i got it out right away just started to melt plastick fan if i didnt have that it would have been toast.
Just get marine one white color and wire tye to cage by throttle never gets in the way sure save my machine,remember oil fire was hard to see flame,always have them garage house picku p dump truck,and one thing about relays,solinoids i learned is they go bad by slowely releasing even if they clickIn my case I thought the interlock was good because I could feel and hear it click it just was not making contact inside. once changed and problem is gone. good idea on the fire ex I think I will go out and put one in there.