Frozen Drive JD 240

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v6turboman

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Joined
Jan 19, 2009
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15
Only when it cold as hell things decide not to workie. Starts fine after plugged in for a spell, but the wheel will not budge. Is as if the brake were engaged, but this is not the case because my pads are worn to a bare min.. The hydraulics seem to work fine except for moving the beast. I acts like it trying to move. After a long period of time of giggling the mach. around with the bucket the wheels finely move. Wheels are not frozen to ground, but as I stated before it is cold as hell. (some where in the single digits). Any help greatly appreciated.
 
It does sound like you "spring applied hydraulic release" parking brakes are not getting pressure to release. Are these the worn pads you speak of? I'd have though it would have had a clutch pack with wet discs and steels for a brake system. ( Have to check manual)
How long had it run b4 it would move? Single digits is not cold enough to that it should be a problem. We get things going at -20 and -30 up here. Could there be water in anywhere that has thawed then frozen?
Ken
 
It does sound like you "spring applied hydraulic release" parking brakes are not getting pressure to release. Are these the worn pads you speak of? I'd have though it would have had a clutch pack with wet discs and steels for a brake system. ( Have to check manual)
How long had it run b4 it would move? Single digits is not cold enough to that it should be a problem. We get things going at -20 and -30 up here. Could there be water in anywhere that has thawed then frozen?
Ken
The brake liners are worn, park does not hold on inclines more then about 5 degree slopes. I do have a manual, but still little confused. Is in necessary to use different hydraulic oils in winter, the boom seem to work fine.
 
The brake liners are worn, park does not hold on inclines more then about 5 degree slopes. I do have a manual, but still little confused. Is in necessary to use different hydraulic oils in winter, the boom seem to work fine.
No different oil needed for winter....despite what others may say. Does this occur in only one direction or on one side......meaning right side wheels don't spin or machine will not move backwards? This sounds more like a pump or drive motor issue, especially since the boom works fine.
 
No different oil needed for winter....despite what others may say. Does this occur in only one direction or on one side......meaning right side wheels don't spin or machine will not move backwards? This sounds more like a pump or drive motor issue, especially since the boom works fine.
It won't move in forward or reverse on ether side, it does however move about 1/2 inch in both directions and that about it.
 
It won't move in forward or reverse on ether side, it does however move about 1/2 inch in both directions and that about it.
Does the motor labour when you try to make it move? or does it seems as though the steering levers were left in neutral? No warning lights are lit?
Ken
 
Yes motor labours, and starts to stall, if I keep on the controls.
From the details you gave, it really does sound like your park brake is not releasing. You said it does rock and thats all, it has to be something holding the brake on. I don't know what style of braking system it uses, be it a wedge, can style or brake disc. Have you tried calling your local dealer and picking their brains?
 
From the details you gave, it really does sound like your park brake is not releasing. You said it does rock and thats all, it has to be something holding the brake on. I don't know what style of braking system it uses, be it a wedge, can style or brake disc. Have you tried calling your local dealer and picking their brains?
I just looked through the manual quickly, but it looks that they have a clutch pack on each side that has a spring apply the clutches to put the brakes on.
Each clutch pack has a eternal cylinder that holds the springs back releasing the brakes.
Can you see if these cylinders move when you disenguage the brakes?
Ken
 
I just looked through the manual quickly, but it looks that they have a clutch pack on each side that has a spring apply the clutches to put the brakes on.
Each clutch pack has a eternal cylinder that holds the springs back releasing the brakes.
Can you see if these cylinders move when you disenguage the brakes?
Ken
I am not into cold weather experience cause we don't have it down here , I worked on a few JD240's but never really seen the inside of the chain case so I don't know if they even have chains which ride in oil , but would presume they are set up like that , so if the chain case had water in the oil and it seperates and freezes the chains do you think it could lock it up , and it truely be " frozen drive "
 
I am not into cold weather experience cause we don't have it down here , I worked on a few JD240's but never really seen the inside of the chain case so I don't know if they even have chains which ride in oil , but would presume they are set up like that , so if the chain case had water in the oil and it seperates and freezes the chains do you think it could lock it up , and it truely be " frozen drive "
The scenario you have described sound very reasonable, because as i mention before, my liners are on the worn side. I will stick a halogen trouble lamp under one of the chain cases and see if this frees up one side, if so I guess its time for some new case oil.
 
The scenario you have described sound very reasonable, because as i mention before, my liners are on the worn side. I will stick a halogen trouble lamp under one of the chain cases and see if this frees up one side, if so I guess its time for some new case oil.
I had a Mustang with a bad wheel seal that let water in chain case. I didn't know this until it did freeze up.
Get a small portable heater, I have a small propane heater that I hook up to 5 gal bottle. about 50,000 to75,000 btu. Or a weed burner stuck in the end of piece stove pipe and direct heat to the chain case. It will take more than a lamp I would think. It will take while and thowing a tarp over machine helps to contain heat. Mustang also had cable control from the pedals and if I pressure wash too much, they would freeze up. scott
 
I had a Mustang with a bad wheel seal that let water in chain case. I didn't know this until it did freeze up.
Get a small portable heater, I have a small propane heater that I hook up to 5 gal bottle. about 50,000 to75,000 btu. Or a weed burner stuck in the end of piece stove pipe and direct heat to the chain case. It will take more than a lamp I would think. It will take while and thowing a tarp over machine helps to contain heat. Mustang also had cable control from the pedals and if I pressure wash too much, they would freeze up. scott
Your right the Lamp was worthless, I need something a little stronger. I will try to rock it lose in a few days and park it in the garage for a day, and then drain and replace the oil. probably never been done on the cases. I purchased it in Memphis a couple of years ago, and hauled it back to Michigan. My guess is that the cases probably did a lot of swearing in that climate. Any reccomendation on chain case oil, other than the outragously priced stuff the dealer trys to push ?
 
Your right the Lamp was worthless, I need something a little stronger. I will try to rock it lose in a few days and park it in the garage for a day, and then drain and replace the oil. probably never been done on the cases. I purchased it in Memphis a couple of years ago, and hauled it back to Michigan. My guess is that the cases probably did a lot of swearing in that climate. Any reccomendation on chain case oil, other than the outragously priced stuff the dealer trys to push ?
The deere manual says Hy gard or Low Vis HY Gard. Ask you local oil supplier, they will have an equivalent.
Ken
 
The deere manual says Hy gard or Low Vis HY Gard. Ask you local oil supplier, they will have an equivalent.
Ken
My 240 was frozen whilst on my trailer once. After fighting it off, I took it to the garage and discovered ice/snow pack somewhere; dang foggy brain! Was it built up around the hub and side of the chain case? Wherever it was, I took the wheel off, chipped it out, and was good to go. That said, am I remembering an old truck I had this problem w/? Somebody chip in here, but I swear I cleared ice/snow out of the inside of a wheel or two and got going. Dreaming?
 
My 240 was frozen whilst on my trailer once. After fighting it off, I took it to the garage and discovered ice/snow pack somewhere; dang foggy brain! Was it built up around the hub and side of the chain case? Wherever it was, I took the wheel off, chipped it out, and was good to go. That said, am I remembering an old truck I had this problem w/? Somebody chip in here, but I swear I cleared ice/snow out of the inside of a wheel or two and got going. Dreaming?
Finally Replace the chain case oil this weekend, but it hasn't gotten frigid in the last several days. The case oil appeared fairly clear. So not quit sure if that was the problem yet. I will no better when we get some more difficult weather.
 
Finally Replace the chain case oil this weekend, but it hasn't gotten frigid in the last several days. The case oil appeared fairly clear. So not quit sure if that was the problem yet. I will no better when we get some more difficult weather.
Had chance to see if the wheel would move yesterday, seeing it chilled up outdoors again. Still wheels freezon up. Only able to rock it slightly back and forth. Feels like the brakes, but as l mention before my liners are worn. When I finally do brake it loose the parking brake does little to hold it back on even a small incline.
 
Had chance to see if the wheel would move yesterday, seeing it chilled up outdoors again. Still wheels freezon up. Only able to rock it slightly back and forth. Feels like the brakes, but as l mention before my liners are worn. When I finally do brake it loose the parking brake does little to hold it back on even a small incline.
Is it possible for moisture to build up between the cover plate and the brake housing of the brake assembly?
 
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