Important Maintenance for All Bobcat!

[Badwhiskey7]

Ok, this is directly about a T190 but crosses over to ALL bobcat Skid and Track loaders plus probably other equipment. Point in fact, some of these items arent listed or at least clearly listed in manual. My theory is if it breaks, you may just buy a new one hence the lack of information.. Obviously, we all change our oil and hydraulic filter, plus oil water separator religiously right? Well, how about the final drive oil? Its very important and is usually dry once we get to it. Besides it being a b!7(h to get to. Well, theres more folks!! Theres a main case filter directly below seat, plus two more smaller filters below each kneecap for the drives. Just wanted everyone to be aware theres more general maintenance that is highly important ill bet alot of us didnt know about. Jus trying to keep everyone's equipment up to par. Theres also dumb sh!t like hyraulic oil cap vent needs replacing, you swap the drive sprokets every time theyre off like rotating tires, tracks as well. And do actually buy NEW QUALITY air filters on a regular basis, not just blow out. Especially important with turbo models as they need consistent intake pressure to stay cool. Hope this helps somebody, and im sure im missing a ton. Have a wonderful Bobcat day!

 

[LCCorp111]

I believe you're referring to the hydrostatic oil. I have a 2004 S300 and I just did some major service and work to it. There is a hydraulic spin on filter behind the seat, with the cab up. Then there are two case drain assemblies, one under and behind seat area, and one behind the cover located on the left side, by the rear tire. These can be purchased as an assembly, or just the sintered filter, and o-rings. I changed the coolant and reservoir cap, and yes I used the Bobcat PG purple. I also changed the chain case oil, which took 13 1/2 gallons. I drained it by pulling the plug underneath the rear, there is a plate to remove, and make sure you have a new rubber grommet. I had to wait for one to be delivered before I could refill it. I live in TN so I used 15W40 in the chain case. Mine had some milkiness to it, but most of it looked fine. That musta have been just sitting on the bottom of the tank.
Also, I recommend removing all cover plates and cleaning! Here is my little guy and what he found in there. Quite embarrassing! But, who would have thought!
Yes I want to keep this thing running. I just rebuilt all of the cylinders, replaced the bob-tach cylinder, replaced the hydraulic hoses running from the cylinders to the rear, back up alarm. Next is the aux hydraulic hoses running from front to rear, any and all other rubber hoses I can get to, in and out cabin filters, fuel sending unit, horn, paint, roof window seal and possibly window if I cant get it clear, and anything else I am not thinking of right now. LOL

Good post, thanks!

 

[fortworth-cowboy]

Ok, this is directly about a T190 but crosses over to ALL bobcat Skid and Track loaders plus probably other equipment. Point in fact, some of these items arent listed or at least clearly listed in manual. My theory is if it breaks, you may just buy a new one hence the lack of information.. Obviously, we all change our oil and hydraulic filter, plus oil water separator religiously right? Well, how about the final drive oil? Its very important and is usually dry once we get to it. Besides it being a b!7(h to get to. Well, theres more folks!! Theres a main case filter directly below seat, plus two more smaller filters below each kneecap for the drives. Just wanted everyone to be aware theres more general maintenance that is highly important ill bet alot of us didnt know about. Jus trying to keep everyone's equipment up to par. Theres also dumb sh!t like hyraulic oil cap vent needs replacing, you swap the drive sprokets every time theyre off like rotating tires, tracks as well. And do actually buy NEW QUALITY air filters on a regular basis, not just blow out. Especially important with turbo models as they need consistent intake pressure to stay cool. Hope this helps somebody, and im sure im missing a ton. Have a wonderful Bobcat day!

Yes, the Drive Motor Oil change by a T190 is difficult because you have to remove the sprocket. BUT that is the only Machine from Bobcat like that. Drive Motor Oil should be changed every 500 hours.
Newer Models, M-Series and up, do not have Case Drain Filters anymore that is all integrated in the Fan Hydraulic Filter.
Breather Cap from the hydraulic Reservoir is needed to be replaced as NEEDED. That is the same as the Engine Air Filters, that all depends on where you run your machine.
BTW blowing out your air filters damages the sealing material from your Air Filters ON ANY application, does not matter if Bobcat machine or your Chevy Truck. They need to be clean so that no debris goes by the filter, no cooling, otherwise the fins will wear and the boost will go down,
Sprockets you can change from left to right hand side if needed to get longer life out of it.
If you have any other questions let me know, I have being doing that for the last 10 years as a Shop Foreman by Bobcat.

 

[fortworth-cowboy]

I believe you're referring to the hydrostatic oil. I have a 2004 S300 and I just did some major service and work to it. There is a hydraulic spin on filter behind the seat, with the cab up. Then there are two case drain assemblies, one under and behind seat area, and one behind the cover located on the left side, by the rear tire. These can be purchased as an assembly, or just the sintered filter, and o-rings. I changed the coolant and reservoir cap, and yes I used the Bobcat PG purple. I also changed the chain case oil, which took 13 1/2 gallons. I drained it by pulling the plug underneath the rear, there is a plate to remove, and make sure you have a new rubber grommet. I had to wait for one to be delivered before I could refill it. I live in TN so I used 15W40 in the chain case. Mine had some milkiness to it, but most of it looked fine. That musta have been just sitting on the bottom of the tank.
Also, I recommend removing all cover plates and cleaning! Here is my little guy and what he found in there. Quite embarrassing! But, who would have thought!
Yes I want to keep this thing running. I just rebuilt all of the cylinders, replaced the bob-tach cylinder, replaced the hydraulic hoses running from the cylinders to the rear, back up alarm. Next is the aux hydraulic hoses running from front to rear, any and all other rubber hoses I can get to, in and out cabin filters, fuel sending unit, horn, paint, roof window seal and possibly window if I cant get it clear, and anything else I am not thinking of right now. LOL

Good post, thanks!

View attachment 9076

Hydrostatic Oil and Hydraulic Oil is the same. Hydrostatic Oil just refers to the Drive System and Hydraulic Oil to Lift, Tilt and AUX Functions.
You slightly overfilled you chain case fluid, which is not an issue just cost you more, your machine only takes 11 ga of hydraulic oil or any oil in that matter.
That plate you referring to, is covering the fuel tank drain NOT the CHAIN CASE FLUID! I think you might have drained the Fuel Tank, The Only way you can drain the Chain Case is either in the front of the machine the plug with the 1/2 inch drive or removing one cover of the 3 covers from the top of the chain case.
Technical it does not matter in which condition the chain case fluid is, that fluid is only for lubrication from the chains NOTHING ELSE!
If your Hydraulic Oil is milky, we have a Problem because then there is somewhere Water getting into the system.

Do not be embarrassed, you are not the first one and not the last one who has a lot of debris in his machine!
Let me know if you need to know anything else!

 

[LCCorp111]

Hydrostatic Oil and Hydraulic Oil is the same. Hydrostatic Oil just refers to the Drive System and Hydraulic Oil to Lift, Tilt and AUX Functions.
You slightly overfilled you chain case fluid, which is not an issue just cost you more, your machine only takes 11 ga of hydraulic oil or any oil in that matter.
That plate you referring to, is covering the fuel tank drain NOT the CHAIN CASE FLUID! I think you might have drained the Fuel Tank, The Only way you can drain the Chain Case is either in the front of the machine the plug with the 1/2 inch drive or removing one cover of the 3 covers from the top of the chain case.
Technical it does not matter in which condition the chain case fluid is, that fluid is only for lubrication from the chains NOTHING ELSE!
If your Hydraulic Oil is milky, we have a Problem because then there is somewhere Water getting into the system.

Do not be embarrassed, you are not the first one and not the last one who has a lot of debris in his machine!
Let me know if you need to know anything else!

I was just trying to clarify, because the OP mentioned "final drive oil", I thought maybe he was referring to the hydrostatic (hydraulic) oil. Maybe the T190 is a diferent situation.
As far as the drain, I am sure I didn't drain the fuel tank. LOL Right next to the fuel tank drain is a plug and grommet for the chain case. I am not sure if that is the proper way to drain it, I know the service manual says to pump it out, but it worked both times I have done it. I even bought the Milwaukee M18 pump just for this, then I remembered I didn't use a pump the last time I changed it. For reference, the plug part number is 6599645, and the grommet is 6553411. I am thinking the milky looking oil was probably from condensation from when I lived north and plowed a lot of snow. There was maybe a quart or two, if that. The rest of the oil looked fine. I read the amount of chain case oil, but I filled it to the bottom of the front fill port, like I would a car differential. I'm thinking it won't be a problem, please correct me if I am wrong. It was on a perfectly level surface, my car lift, but the weight of the engine does drop the back down a bit, so I think that is probably why it took more.
I am sure I am not the only one with debris, but I just couldn't believe how much actually came out of there. LOL Here is another view!

I want to change the fuel sending unit because my gauge is on empty and doesn't move. Any suggestions/tips & tricks on that?

Also, I would like to pressure wash the engine area, and under the cab. Is there anywhere I should NOT do this? I want to spray degreaser then pressure wash.

Thanks

 

[fortworth-cowboy]

I was just trying to clarify, because the OP mentioned "final drive oil", I thought maybe he was referring to the hydrostatic (hydraulic) oil. Maybe the T190 is a diferent situation.
As far as the drain, I am sure I didn't drain the fuel tank. LOL Right next to the fuel tank drain is a plug and grommet for the chain case. I am not sure if that is the proper way to drain it, I know the service manual says to pump it out, but it worked both times I have done it. I even bought the Milwaukee M18 pump just for this, then I remembered I didn't use a pump the last time I changed it. For reference, the plug part number is 6599645, and the grommet is 6553411. I am thinking the milky looking oil was probably from condensation from when I lived north and plowed a lot of snow. There was maybe a quart or two, if that. The rest of the oil looked fine. I read the amount of chain case oil, but I filled it to the bottom of the front fill port, like I would a car differential. I'm thinking it won't be a problem, please correct me if I am wrong. It was on a perfectly level surface, my car lift, but the weight of the engine does drop the back down a bit, so I think that is probably why it took more.
I am sure I am not the only one with debris, but I just couldn't believe how much actually came out of there. LOL Here is another view!

View attachment 9082

I want to change the fuel sending unit because my gauge is on empty and doesn't move. Any suggestions/tips & tricks on that?

Also, I would like to pressure wash the engine area, and under the cab. Is there anywhere I should NOT do this? I want to spray degreaser then pressure wash.

Thanks

So the Plug (Part #6599645) is actually only used on the Fuel Tank as a Drain Plug if you look into the part catalog.
The Grommet (Part # 6553411) is the Grommet used for the Breather from the chain case on the middle cover on the chain case.
Most likely someone drilled a whole into chain case and modified it like that, that is not OEM!

Pressure washing depends on, do you have one with heat and high pressure? If you power washer has higher pressure then 2000 PSI or you have a small nozzle on, you can easily cut holes in your fuel tank.
Removal of your fuel sending unit--move your boom up and secure it with the Lift Arm Support Device, remove both panels on your LH and RH side.
Then you need long arms to reach the top of the fuel sending unit, use a blower to blow off debris around the sending unit, unplug the unit and use channel lock plyers to remove the unit from the tank. Most likely you will find that your swimmer from the unit is probably full with fuel and stays down because of the weight.