Gear oil milky..easy to change?

[xtreem3d]

3 of my machines have somewhat milky gear oil on the dipsticks underneath the seats. Is it hard to drain them and refill? how does water get in there in the first place? condensation?
Thanks,
Steve

 

[Mike10]

I am assuming you either have a LX 865,885 or LS180,190. To drain the gear oil you will need to remove the pan under the transmissions. There will be a 1/4" pipe plug on the back of the plate attached to the bell housing. The plug must be accessed from under the loader. Remove the plug to drain the oil.
Condensation is probably the cause of the contamination. It is unlikely any other source would affect three different machines.

 

[xtreem3d]

I am assuming you either have a LX 865,885 or LS180,190. To drain the gear oil you will need to remove the pan under the transmissions. There will be a 1/4" pipe plug on the back of the plate attached to the bell housing. The plug must be accessed from under the loader. Remove the plug to drain the oil.
Condensation is probably the cause of the contamination. It is unlikely any other source would affect three different machines.

Thanks Mike...yes the ones with the issues are the LX 985 ( i might have some of my machines mixed up) and the LS 185 and LS 190. How much will it take to refill ?
Steve

 

[Mike10]

Thanks Mike...yes the ones with the issues are the LX 985 ( i might have some of my machines mixed up) and the LS 185 and LS 190. How much will it take to refill ?
Steve

I think it is around 2 quarts

 

[xtreem3d]

I think it is around 2 quarts

Thank You

 

[jhicks]

Thank You

I was doing some routine matience on my LS180 today and noticed this dipstick. Which i never even knew was there. What is this dipstick for? And how do you add fluid to it? I checked it and it seemed a little low..

 

[Mike10]

I was doing some routine matience on my LS180 today and noticed this dipstick. Which i never even knew was there. What is this dipstick for? And how do you add fluid to it? I checked it and it seemed a little low..

http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=49103

 

[deanvlntn2]

I have a 1996 5575 John Deere skid steer and the gear oil looks milky when I opened the plug between the two tires. I just got the machine a few months ago and I'm trying to learn everything about it also at what RPMs should I be running the machine at when I operate it.

 

[mrbb]

I have a 1996 5575 John Deere skid steer and the gear oil looks milky when I opened the plug between the two tires. I just got the machine a few months ago and I'm trying to learn everything about it also at what RPMs should I be running the machine at when I operate it.

first off welcome to the site, but this is a rather OLD tread and you might be better off starting a new one asking questions you have, to get more folks to view it and help you

as for suggestions, I would highly recommend you get yourself a real service manual for your machine, and then, you can learn all you want on what to do and how to do it!
as for your milky oil, that means you got water in things, water is BAD and can ruin things if not charged and removed, , when you get water into oil, it tends to make removing very hard as it will NOT drain out on a simple oil change, it tends to take several, and or flushing the systems its in

next you also want to find out HOW The water got in in the first place, as if it got in once, and you do NOT fix things to prevent it from happening again, your going to soon again have water in your new cleaned system!
SO< you need to know how the water got in, to stop it, and THEN clean system of water and new oil /filters pending where its at!


as for what RPM< to run at, many MFG suggest running full throttle for most things,
some folks don't follow this rule and use the throttle more based on what they are trying to do with the machine, and adjust from there, NO set rule

general rule of thumb is you want more rpm than you need, so pumps and systems parts don't be struggling to do task being asked of them
not enough rpms is worse than more than needed!
your to trying to really save MPG"S when using a skid steer, its will use about the same fuel running wide open as it will at using less when doing things, wear and tear isn;'t much higher either, as again, they were basically designed to run full throttle when working , lifting loading mowing and so on!


experience will come and you will learn when to use more or less, you just don;'t want the machine struggling to move or lugging like
thats harder on things than higher rpms

 

[foton]

There is a thing called a oil vaccuum that can be very usefull in removing oil from holding tanks that have no drain plug or ones that are difficult to get at. I picked up one at harbor freight ,they do not use all that much air to operate so a smallish compressor can be used to operate it during use. I drained a friend of mine bobcat s185 chaincase with no issues. But they are not real fast but they do the job well.

 

[Shanmar]

On the 5575 the cavity between the tires is nothing more than a chain case not part of the hydraulic system. Still would be good to refresh it. Are all 4 axle bearings good? Bad bearing/seal and driving through water could let water into that cavity.
In case you're not aware, the 5575 & 6675 were built by New Holland and they're the same as the NH LX565/665 except the Deere's had Yanmar engines and New Hollands had ISM/Shibaura engines. So you can get most parts from New Holland.

 

[mrbb]

There is a thing called a oil vaccuum that can be very usefull in removing oil from holding tanks that have no drain plug or ones that are difficult to get at. I picked up one at harbor freight ,they do not use all that much air to operate so a smallish compressor can be used to operate it during use. I drained a friend of mine bobcat s185 chaincase with no issues. But they are not real fast but they do the job well.

oil vacuums do work, but they do not allow a complete drain as removing an oil drain plug will, and with water being heavier than oil, that means water can still lay on bottom as well as cling to sides and other internals,, and why when you get water into an oil cavity, you really want to drain all you can as, well as maybe flush the system, to try and push all of it out! with a second oil/filter change in the very near future to again, ensure you got as much out as possible!