I recently acquired this bobcat (clark) 825 with a Perkins 4108 in it. The previous owner was smelling antifreeze from the exhaust. He pulled the head and was told a sleeve had a crack in it. He sold it because he couldn't find a Perkins for a reasonable price. I purchased it. Took the head to a machine shop to have magnafluxed and determined it had 3 cracks by the valves, and warped 8 deg. So I'm in the process of installing a V2203 Kubota. Just wondering what others have done with their 825 engine wise, problems, advantages, disadvantages with this old machine! From lurking on this forum, I'd say there are not too many of these old beast being used/talked about here.
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Looking forward to seeing how the swap works out.
I was a little concerned with the HP of the V2203 vs the perkins, but after looking it up, the difference is only abot 6hp lower with the V2203.
The good thing is, the Kubota engine is easy to get parts for, and they are pretty cheap.
I was a little concerned with the HP of the V2203 vs the perkins, but after looking it up, the difference is only abot 6hp lower with the V2203.
The good thing is, the Kubota engine is easy to get parts for, and they are pretty cheap.
The Perkins is rated lower then the V2203 from all the information I have. Here's what the guys using them in sailboats say, "When matching a propeller to a Perky we always use 38 bhp@3000 rpm, although indeed higher revs and therefore more hp can be had." The Perkins is a 1980"s engine. It's smaller then used in Massey tractors. It's 4 cyl. 108 CI. They were good engines, had some trouble with oil leaks at the rear main, and that was amplified by being in a boat! I could get parts from NZ that were original, not aftermarket, cheaper then in the US. But, the cost of the head, then have to rebuild the engine made it easier to go another direction. The V2203 is Direct Injected and the Perkins was not. I've got a shallower steel oil pan ordered to eliminate the big pan used on the Carrier units. I've got the flywheel and the hub for the coupling at a machine shop to be adapted.
SkidRoe
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Sounds like a worthy endeavor to me!! It would be great to see some pictures of your progress and what you had to modify to make it work.
Cheers - SR
I've got some pictures but it may take me a while to figure the process. I finally got the female spline with the coupler off of the male spline. It was seized on there pretty good. There could be virtually no movement, because it would not slide. I unbolted the plate from the flywheel to have some room and get the engine out of my way. Eventually removed the coupling, then used fa puller and PB Blaster to get it to move. The splines are now cleaned and ready for reassembly.
I got the flywheel and the flange for the joint to the hydraulics, finally. The machine shop had them ond day short of 5 weeks! The holes on the side of the block have been cleaned with a tap, the mount plates are made for the corners of the engine.
Wish I know how to post some pictures!
Almost 5 weeks? Sure hope they did a damn fine job!
I hope the rest of the work goes smoothly
Tazza, the work was fine! It took 5 weeks for me to get it, but I got billed for 2 hours work. I guess that means they have a bad "GO" button. I've got some pictures of the project, but computer skills are lacking on how to post them on this site. Maybe this will work. Here's a link to another forum.
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29729
I clicked on the HTML box and still can not get paragraphs!
Looking good, making great progress.
I like the leveling system, simple yet effective.
Tazza, I haven't done much work lately. I have been working on the engine mounts. Question: How do I know I when have the U-Joint in a straight alignment? What I have done is get the machine level length wise and width wise. Then when I set the engine in the body of the skid steer I use a torpedo level across some bosses on the top of the bell housing, then on the side of the engine (like it would be if in a tractor attached to the frame rail), then on the flywheel, and get the center of the crankshaft (at the back) centered by the SS frame and the mounting hole directly below center. I have the bell housing adjusted with my all thread to keep the u-joint straight. Anything else I can do?
Your idea seems better than anything i can come up with. Universal joints are made to move, so mis-alignment shouldn't be an issue, as long as it's not out by heaps.
There really is no simple way to know for sure that they are just right that i can think of. Can you use a square from the fly wheel to the pump to see if it looks like it's tracking straight?
Even if it's a bit out, it should be fine. More so if you are good with your service and grease the joints often. Older machines get neglected, they are there, hard to access, so they get forgotten.
What do I need to do to be able to make paragraphs? I marked the HTML box (I think). I use FF 52.0.3
You checked the correct box to do it... I use Internet Explorer, i know it's not ideal, but it does work for me.
There was a way to use FF and make it work, but i have never gone that route to learn what to do
I posted some pictures of the progress with the engine mounts on that outer site. I used the Perkins mount and modified as required. Slow going.You checked the correct box to do it... I use Internet Explorer, i know it's not ideal, but it does work for me.
There was a way to use FF and make it work, but i have never gone that route to learn what to do
It may be slow, but it is still progress!
Good to see it wasn't too hard to modify mounts to the new engine too.
I'm not sure how this forum works. I use FF and did what I thought was required to make paragraphs... but it has not worked. Maybe this time! I posted some pictures over the the Orange Tractor Talk forum in the link above. I've got everything just about finished. Engine runs nice. I did replace all the injectors. Have the air box mounted on a telescoping tubing for some flexibility. Exhaust is pretty well in place. Had to do some creative thinking for the throttle control. Used the existing lever and adapted it to a cable with a mount at the front of the IP. Flex coupling runs as perfect as can be! Used the alternator and external regulator I had on an L3250 Kubota tractor. Also used the fuel filter off of that tractor. Just have a bit of wiring to finish up. I just bought a new ignition switch today because the key was broke off in the one on it and the back side was extremely rusty. The entire control box was full of mud-dobbers. Going to install water temp, and oil pressure gauges.
I find that IE is about the only reliable web browzer that plays well with this forum.
Good job, kept the old grey matter working to work problems out
SkidRoe
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Thanks for the update, good to see progress!!
Cheers - SR
I've got some updated pictures over on the Orange Tractor Talk Forum. I'm installing elec. oil and temp gauges and mounting them in the upper corners of the ROPS. Have the sending units in the engine, but not wired yet. Had one gauge pod, ordered another and waiting on it. Put new LED lights in the control panel. Have throttle linkage working and maybe needing a fine tuning (not sure yet).
