Nosprk4me1x
Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2023
- Messages
- 5
Hello everyone this is the reason I joined so I hope I'm in the correct area.
I've got an old Wisconsin vh4d that I'm rewiring for use on my old IH 3200A and I've been going by the schematics in the repair/ service manual. One thing I'm wondering is, do I have to use an ammeter and do I need the second switch in the ignition system? Per the wiring diagram it shows a toggle switch to provide power to coil, after the main starter switch. In the diagram it shows a two pole ignition switch (push button) but what I want to do is use a 4 position key start switch just like in a car. Turn key once to energize coil, turn further to engage solenoid and start engine. So much less wire needed and time. The ammeter has leads coming from a voltage regulator and a rectifier but when disconnecting the original ammeter the leads fell right off the back and the whole ammeter just fell apart into dust. I would rather not wait around a couple weeks for another one to be delivered, if I could even find one! So I was hoping to just eliminate the ammeter and the toggle. Is there any reason this won't work? It looks like I will just have to go from the new key switch "on" terminal straight to the solenoid and regulator then to rectifier. Not using an ammeter won't mess with the charging from the flywheel alternator/ stator, would it?
Thank you kindly for any advice
I've got an old Wisconsin vh4d that I'm rewiring for use on my old IH 3200A and I've been going by the schematics in the repair/ service manual. One thing I'm wondering is, do I have to use an ammeter and do I need the second switch in the ignition system? Per the wiring diagram it shows a toggle switch to provide power to coil, after the main starter switch. In the diagram it shows a two pole ignition switch (push button) but what I want to do is use a 4 position key start switch just like in a car. Turn key once to energize coil, turn further to engage solenoid and start engine. So much less wire needed and time. The ammeter has leads coming from a voltage regulator and a rectifier but when disconnecting the original ammeter the leads fell right off the back and the whole ammeter just fell apart into dust. I would rather not wait around a couple weeks for another one to be delivered, if I could even find one! So I was hoping to just eliminate the ammeter and the toggle. Is there any reason this won't work? It looks like I will just have to go from the new key switch "on" terminal straight to the solenoid and regulator then to rectifier. Not using an ammeter won't mess with the charging from the flywheel alternator/ stator, would it?
Thank you kindly for any advice
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