Where are the Brakes ?

Owego-NY

Active member
Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Messages
28
If my 642B were to conk out on a hill, what would stop me from free wheeling down the hill? I understand while the engine is running that the hydraulics control it, but what if it stalls? The guy I bought it from said he jumped from an old Case that stalled on him and it rolled backwards down to the woods and crashed into a tree. It's got me a little nervous as I live on a steep hill. Thx - Mike B.
 
On a 642 there should be a center pedal for the parking brake.
With the engine off and the steering levers in neutral it shouldn't roll even on a incline and even if does roll a little it will be fighting the hydrostatic's and won't roll very fast. Anyone whose tried to tow a dead hydrostatic machine can tell you they don't like to roll.
 
On a 642 there should be a center pedal for the parking brake.
With the engine off and the steering levers in neutral it shouldn't roll even on a incline and even if does roll a little it will be fighting the hydrostatic's and won't roll very fast. Anyone whose tried to tow a dead hydrostatic machine can tell you they don't like to roll.
Depending how steep the the hill is, it could roll, but it would be very slow because of fighting the hydraulics. As Old M said, the brake pedal is in the center. These old machines always creep and the should work simpley because of that. The simplest adjustment is adjust up the slack on the brake linkage. If the nut is already pretty far down the the rod, flip the cab. The threaded rod connects to a lever that applies the brakes. Pop the lever of the brakeshaft going threw the chaincase cover. Turn the shaft as far applied on as you can and install the lever. If you did it right, the adjusting nut on the rod should be backed off almost to the end. Five minutes of looking at it and it will pretty clear how it works.
 
Depending how steep the the hill is, it could roll, but it would be very slow because of fighting the hydraulics. As Old M said, the brake pedal is in the center. These old machines always creep and the should work simpley because of that. The simplest adjustment is adjust up the slack on the brake linkage. If the nut is already pretty far down the the rod, flip the cab. The threaded rod connects to a lever that applies the brakes. Pop the lever of the brakeshaft going threw the chaincase cover. Turn the shaft as far applied on as you can and install the lever. If you did it right, the adjusting nut on the rod should be backed off almost to the end. Five minutes of looking at it and it will pretty clear how it works.
Hey thank you fellas for the help. I guess I must be missing that pedal and linkage as there is nothing in the middle. I will have to concoct something to function the same if I can't locate the parts I am missing. But at least my fear of driving down my driveway has been eliminated. I wish I knew someone around here with the same unit so I could eyeball one and see what exactly I need. Thx again !
 
Hey thank you fellas for the help. I guess I must be missing that pedal and linkage as there is nothing in the middle. I will have to concoct something to function the same if I can't locate the parts I am missing. But at least my fear of driving down my driveway has been eliminated. I wish I knew someone around here with the same unit so I could eyeball one and see what exactly I need. Thx again !
BrakePedal.jpg

BrakeAssembly.jpg
 
Old Machinist, you are the best ! This is just what I needed, thank you ! From looking this over don't see any kind of locking mechanism to "set' the brake. is there supposed to be one?
 
Old Machinist, you are the best ! This is just what I needed, thank you ! From looking this over don't see any kind of locking mechanism to "set' the brake. is there supposed to be one?
When adjusted right it will turn the cam(item #2) and lock in place.
 
When adjusted right it will turn the cam(item #2) and lock in place.
Oh, ok, thx. I guess in my mind I would think the cam could reverse w/o some sort of lock to keep it from rotating back but must be they designed it to stay on it's own...interesting. Can't wait to check it out. Thx again !
 
Oh, ok, thx. I guess in my mind I would think the cam could reverse w/o some sort of lock to keep it from rotating back but must be they designed it to stay on it's own...interesting. Can't wait to check it out. Thx again !
i would think all you are missing is the brake linkage rod and the pedal. i just bought a brake linkage rod for my 643 because mine was rusted solid, it was $28 from the bobcat dealer. the pedal i would think would be more money, but probably not a killer. you could probably make the rod with some threaded rod, but for 28 bucks its not worth it to mess with it. but the brake works wonderful, i just forget to take it off and drive with it, but you can tell.
 
i would think all you are missing is the brake linkage rod and the pedal. i just bought a brake linkage rod for my 643 because mine was rusted solid, it was $28 from the bobcat dealer. the pedal i would think would be more money, but probably not a killer. you could probably make the rod with some threaded rod, but for 28 bucks its not worth it to mess with it. but the brake works wonderful, i just forget to take it off and drive with it, but you can tell.
So to "take it off" you just pull back on the pedal ?
 
So to "take it off" you just pull back on the pedal ?
Exactly, bump it with your heel and it will fling back and the brakes are released.
As mentioned already, it shouldn't go out of control if the engine stalls, the lines are full of oil, the motors will fight to make it move so the machine can only crawl along slowly. If you were to blow drive motor hoses, that is a different story.
 
Exactly, bump it with your heel and it will fling back and the brakes are released.
As mentioned already, it shouldn't go out of control if the engine stalls, the lines are full of oil, the motors will fight to make it move so the machine can only crawl along slowly. If you were to blow drive motor hoses, that is a different story.
Well I guess that is a good reason to have the brake replaced then. Thx for the input. Tom is on target with the 28.00 replacement, that'll be the direction I go in. Thx again.
 
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