T300 /2008 Total overhaul

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Halo

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Apr 16, 2016
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Hello I purchased a Bobcat T300 from 2008 and 180 hours it's like new ,but is very rusty :( The problem is that the equipment has been stored for 4-5 years in unsuitable conditions in a yard in rain,sun, snow,etc. Now that I bought it and the summer comes, I decided to put it on the feet and make a complete overhaul including minor touches to paint because is very rusty. Before I start it I've changed: - Hydraulic oil (was dark brown) - Engine oil (look's like black honey) - Air filters (were rusty) - Hydraulic filter HF (was rusty) - Diesel filter (was rusty) - Engine oil filter (was rusty) - Hydraulic oil filter fan - The battery (it was completely dry, unusable) - I clean all electrical connections with spray for cleaning disc brakes because the on-board looks like a Christmas tree :)), all contacts were oxidized. - I changed the alternator belt (there were visible cracks on it) - I changed the antifreeze fluid (have water instead of antifreeze) Now all the errors and the dashboard lights went out and the whole thing is ok. All joints were stuck and i had to pull the pins out and clean them of rust, had no trace of grease, now the problem is solved :) tracks were weak and had to tense them but the grease point were rusty and had to change them . Now i need your help for some problems. 1. I must change the oil in final drive and i do not find the procedure and the amount of oil for them! 2. The belt tensioner that involve the hydraulics is squeaky, i must change roller/belt kit or it's ok? 3. I measured alternator voltage and i have constant 12.06-12.08 volts is this normal? As I know it should be above 13 to 13.5 volts! 4. How do I remove air from the engine cooling system? Is there a vent somewhere? 5. Can someone help me with a service manual for this Bobcat T300 / 2008/ pin*532 040 486* Engine: Kubota V3300-T 3.3 liters. 6. I could not change more than 28 liters of hydraulic oil, there is a procedure for changing the entire amount of oil? Except risky procedure true AUX sistem. Thank you in advance and excuse my bad english. Sincerely Bogdan
 

Tazza

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I have never done the hubs, but the dealer will proide you with the correct amount of oil as it is special synthetic oil.
Air in the cooling system will bleed it's self over time. You said you were running water, i'd make sure you get some coolant in there. If it freezes, you are in a world of trouble and the corrosion caused from no rust inhibitor too.
I don't like the voltage, it should be higher i'd think too. You may need to get it tested out.
Tensioner, it could be because it's been sitting for a while or corrosion in the bearings. Depending on how good you are, you can replace teh bearings in it. A new one will run you about $4-500.... So you have nothing to loose by trying to replace the old bearings.
 
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Halo

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Apr 16, 2016
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I have never done the hubs, but the dealer will proide you with the correct amount of oil as it is special synthetic oil.
Air in the cooling system will bleed it's self over time. You said you were running water, i'd make sure you get some coolant in there. If it freezes, you are in a world of trouble and the corrosion caused from no rust inhibitor too.
I don't like the voltage, it should be higher i'd think too. You may need to get it tested out.
Tensioner, it could be because it's been sitting for a while or corrosion in the bearings. Depending on how good you are, you can replace teh bearings in it. A new one will run you about $4-500.... So you have nothing to loose by trying to replace the old bearings.
I have the syntentic oil for the hubs , i need the schematics for the drain and refill point on the hub. I found water in the cooling system and i replace the water with coolant for -27 C. I'll de/mount the alternator and check the diods, i found corrosion traces in the case. I will try to replace the bearing, but here i need a schematic for tension/position of the belt if you can help me. I have a service manual but the picture's are very bad and i can't see details (xerox make ) Thank's for the reply.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

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Feb 2, 2012
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1,294
I have the syntentic oil for the hubs , i need the schematics for the drain and refill point on the hub. I found water in the cooling system and i replace the water with coolant for -27 C. I'll de/mount the alternator and check the diods, i found corrosion traces in the case. I will try to replace the bearing, but here i need a schematic for tension/position of the belt if you can help me. I have a service manual but the picture's are very bad and i can't see details (xerox make ) Thank's for the reply.
low hr t300 good unit. be clear and concise with youre questions. we will have answers. glad to help. as with anything mechanical the takinining apart clean and lube aint a bad place to start.
 
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Halo

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Apr 16, 2016
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low hr t300 good unit. be clear and concise with youre questions. we will have answers. glad to help. as with anything mechanical the takinining apart clean and lube aint a bad place to start.
Hello 7LBSSMALLIE The machine is clean, lubricated with new oil and new filters . The only problems that remain are: 1. Tension roller from the hydraulics (here I need a scheme for dismantling and assembling) 2. I want to change the oil in final drive (I know that the final drive has two points with screws, filling and drain, I can not find the drain screw) Thank's
 

Tazza

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Hello 7LBSSMALLIE The machine is clean, lubricated with new oil and new filters . The only problems that remain are: 1. Tension roller from the hydraulics (here I need a scheme for dismantling and assembling) 2. I want to change the oil in final drive (I know that the final drive has two points with screws, filling and drain, I can not find the drain screw) Thank's
No diagram needed really for the tensioner. Remove the cap on the part that spins, get a screw driver under the cap, work your way around it. There will be a snap ring inside that you take off to get the bearings off the shaft.
At least, this is how mine worked.
 
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Halo

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Apr 16, 2016
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No diagram needed really for the tensioner. Remove the cap on the part that spins, get a screw driver under the cap, work your way around it. There will be a snap ring inside that you take off to get the bearings off the shaft.
At least, this is how mine worked.
I replaced the tension pulley bearings, everything is ok now, thanks Tazza.It was easy and i save $$ ,good job.
 

Tazza

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I replaced the tension pulley bearings, everything is ok now, thanks Tazza.It was easy and i save $$ ,good job.
Glad you got it sorted out, mine was easy to do too. Few bucks for bearings or a few hundred for a new one.
 

siduramaxde

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Nov 15, 2005
Messages
362
Glad you got it sorted out, mine was easy to do too. Few bucks for bearings or a few hundred for a new one.
To change the outer hub oil (you called it a final drive) all you have to do is remove the oil plug. Then rotate the sprocket so the drain is at the bottom. Then rotate the hub 90 degrees and fill the hub. Re install the oil plug and you are done. The oil plug is located on the face of the hub and takes an allen key to remove. All of this is very easy and shouldn't take longer than 10 minutes
 
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