suggestions on flushing hydraulic system

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drcaveman

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Apr 2, 2010
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I bought a junker with a burned up pump. I'm scared of running contaminated fluid through it. How can I flush the system out?
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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I forgot to mention I'm obviously putting a replacement pump in.
Your either have to pull it all down and clean it all or install hi pressure filters between the hydro and motor then on the outlet side of the motor back to the hydro. Then just drive it in ONE direction so you don't back flush the filters until it has run enough to flush itself out.
If you only have low pressure filters I suppose you could block it up off the gound and run the wheels. I don't see why this won't work if it is simpler to plumb in extra filters then to pull the motors off and apart.
I have some extra hi pressure filters I picked up of ebay reasonable enough and a good selections of spare hoses though.
I'm sure other will chime in.
Ken
 

Tazza

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Your either have to pull it all down and clean it all or install hi pressure filters between the hydro and motor then on the outlet side of the motor back to the hydro. Then just drive it in ONE direction so you don't back flush the filters until it has run enough to flush itself out.
If you only have low pressure filters I suppose you could block it up off the gound and run the wheels. I don't see why this won't work if it is simpler to plumb in extra filters then to pull the motors off and apart.
I have some extra hi pressure filters I picked up of ebay reasonable enough and a good selections of spare hoses though.
I'm sure other will chime in.
Ken
The only other way is to pull the lines and blow air through them to remove any particles. I have done this before, i also used small pieces of foam and diesel. Spray diesel into the line and push a piece of sponge through the line with air to remove andy particles.
 
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drcaveman

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Apr 2, 2010
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The only other way is to pull the lines and blow air through them to remove any particles. I have done this before, i also used small pieces of foam and diesel. Spray diesel into the line and push a piece of sponge through the line with air to remove andy particles.
update I have had a lot of other things going on, but finally got the pump put in and I believe everything flushed out. I completely drained the hydraulic fluid and replaced the filter. I ran it for about 5 minutes and it had almost no power. I drained all the fluid and replaced the filter again. I also adjusted the linkages and got it working OK I thought until I tried to pull a steep incline at 1/2 throttle and it just quit about half way up. I have the factory manual and it says to check the pressure n the service port. My pump looks just like the one in the book except mine has no service port where the one in the book is. Also the machine had two round plastic deals with electrical terminals. One is for back up alarm and the other pressure switch, but this pump doesn't have those for options. I'm at a loss because the machine had no pump in it when I bought it, so I can't just swap parts over. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I really was hoping this would be a good machine new tires, 4 in 1 bucket, and it fires right up.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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update I have had a lot of other things going on, but finally got the pump put in and I believe everything flushed out. I completely drained the hydraulic fluid and replaced the filter. I ran it for about 5 minutes and it had almost no power. I drained all the fluid and replaced the filter again. I also adjusted the linkages and got it working OK I thought until I tried to pull a steep incline at 1/2 throttle and it just quit about half way up. I have the factory manual and it says to check the pressure n the service port. My pump looks just like the one in the book except mine has no service port where the one in the book is. Also the machine had two round plastic deals with electrical terminals. One is for back up alarm and the other pressure switch, but this pump doesn't have those for options. I'm at a loss because the machine had no pump in it when I bought it, so I can't just swap parts over. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I really was hoping this would be a good machine new tires, 4 in 1 bucket, and it fires right up.
You can check charge pressure at you hydraulic filter. The machine must have a charge pressure light and therefore a sender to activate it someplace.
Ken
 

Hotrod1830

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Sep 14, 2010
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update I have had a lot of other things going on, but finally got the pump put in and I believe everything flushed out. I completely drained the hydraulic fluid and replaced the filter. I ran it for about 5 minutes and it had almost no power. I drained all the fluid and replaced the filter again. I also adjusted the linkages and got it working OK I thought until I tried to pull a steep incline at 1/2 throttle and it just quit about half way up. I have the factory manual and it says to check the pressure n the service port. My pump looks just like the one in the book except mine has no service port where the one in the book is. Also the machine had two round plastic deals with electrical terminals. One is for back up alarm and the other pressure switch, but this pump doesn't have those for options. I'm at a loss because the machine had no pump in it when I bought it, so I can't just swap parts over. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I really was hoping this would be a good machine new tires, 4 in 1 bucket, and it fires right up.
Did it stop moving or did the engine stall? If the engine stalled, check the governor.
 
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drcaveman

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Apr 2, 2010
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Did it stop moving or did the engine stall? If the engine stalled, check the governor.
I screwed a gauge in a plugged port on the filter head with no reading at full throttle. I then removed the restriction sender on the filter head and screwed my gauge there also got no reading. I finally found a port on the pump that read like 400 psi or more. When I move the directional control lever it drops to 0. I am now ready to pull my hair out do to this problem and another that deserves its own thread. Thanks to all who have offered knowledge and I apologize for my snails pace. the engine is fine it just doesn't have very much power in the drives
 

terry523

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Feb 1, 2011
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I screwed a gauge in a plugged port on the filter head with no reading at full throttle. I then removed the restriction sender on the filter head and screwed my gauge there also got no reading. I finally found a port on the pump that read like 400 psi or more. When I move the directional control lever it drops to 0. I am now ready to pull my hair out do to this problem and another that deserves its own thread. Thanks to all who have offered knowledge and I apologize for my snails pace. the engine is fine it just doesn't have very much power in the drives
Left side of my drive had little power, and got weaker as engine warmed.I pulled my pump out last week took it to a mechanic friend of mine who is a mechanic for airlines, he replaced the wafer plate , swarf plate and installed a new seal kit, parts costs $500.00 labor $150.00
 
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drcaveman

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Apr 2, 2010
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Left side of my drive had little power, and got weaker as engine warmed.I pulled my pump out last week took it to a mechanic friend of mine who is a mechanic for airlines, he replaced the wafer plate , swarf plate and installed a new seal kit, parts costs $500.00 labor $150.00
Played with it some more last night. It has around 400psi and holds with the drives free and levers moved, but when you lock the wheels the charge falls to 0 when you move the levers. Also I noticed that at full throttle the hydraulic filter light comes on. I checked the chains on the left hand side just to check for the motor leaking through or something. I didn't find that. but I did find a bunch of metal. I pulled the front axle out and the slots in the back where the locking pin goes had wore a groove in between all the holes rendering the locking mechanism useless. I then saw that all the welds holding the locking pin deal in were broke, so I welded them all up. Then I welded up the gear and then milled the holes back for the pin. I got it all back together and then while tightening up the axle nuts my air compressor motor caught ON FIRE!!!!! This machine seems doomed I should have let the old compressor burn and the damn 1840 with it.
 

Tazza

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Played with it some more last night. It has around 400psi and holds with the drives free and levers moved, but when you lock the wheels the charge falls to 0 when you move the levers. Also I noticed that at full throttle the hydraulic filter light comes on. I checked the chains on the left hand side just to check for the motor leaking through or something. I didn't find that. but I did find a bunch of metal. I pulled the front axle out and the slots in the back where the locking pin goes had wore a groove in between all the holes rendering the locking mechanism useless. I then saw that all the welds holding the locking pin deal in were broke, so I welded them all up. Then I welded up the gear and then milled the holes back for the pin. I got it all back together and then while tightening up the axle nuts my air compressor motor caught ON FIRE!!!!! This machine seems doomed I should have let the old compressor burn and the damn 1840 with it.
You really are having some bad luck..... Hopefully the compressor can be saved and i'm sure the machine will be something simple.....
 

Des

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Jan 17, 2011
Messages
59
Hay I was reading your thread and have a question ,you say burned up pump ,did the pump fail due to damaged parts ,if so did you remove the drivemotors . the drive system is a closed loop system ,so if pump fails then it will damage drivemotors then the damaged drivemotors will damage the new pump.
 
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drcaveman

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Apr 2, 2010
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Hay I was reading your thread and have a question ,you say burned up pump ,did the pump fail due to damaged parts ,if so did you remove the drivemotors . the drive system is a closed loop system ,so if pump fails then it will damage drivemotors then the damaged drivemotors will damage the new pump.
Sounds like I either need to sell it as is, or park it till I can afford to redo the motors and pump.
 

terry523

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Feb 1, 2011
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Sounds like I either need to sell it as is, or park it till I can afford to redo the motors and pump.
I dont think you should assume the drive motors are damaged just because the pump is damanged even with the closed loop system. a hydraulic expert told me that to. He said i should take both drive motors off and the pump and let him check all because my bad pump would destroy the drive motors. After installing the rebuilt pump, we had no problems with the drive motors. I think maybe he was trying to make extra money.
 

Des

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Jan 17, 2011
Messages
59
I dont think you should assume the drive motors are damaged just because the pump is damanged even with the closed loop system. a hydraulic expert told me that to. He said i should take both drive motors off and the pump and let him check all because my bad pump would destroy the drive motors. After installing the rebuilt pump, we had no problems with the drive motors. I think maybe he was trying to make extra money.
I have rebuilt lots of pumps & drivemotors in skidsteers, not one of them has not damaged the other in some degree . What I am trying to get at is when you have a pump or drivemotor failure it is best to remove both and strip & clean ,replace or repair all damaged parts. If I am doing this repair for one of my customers then pump & drivemotors are done ,best case lapping & reseal worst case new drivemotors .
 
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