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General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
Squealing 763
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<blockquote data-quote="Fishfiles" data-source="post: 50116" data-attributes="member: 782"><p>I hear ya Mr. Deere , I have a T180 belt and idler on order right now and that drive belt was only $25 but very high 3 hundred plus for the idler assembly ------------but Harry would have had to add 60 miles times 2 worth of fuel , 2 hours plus worth of time , plus a $6 bridge toll charge to the cost of the belt , making it a good saving -------Napa can match up some of the drive belts , lucky I am close to the main store as they are the only one that ever has it in stock , they are not cheaper , in fact they are more expensive , but sometimes , time is worth more than money -------here is another trick I have learned about doing the drive belt adjustment use a 1/2 dive ratchet with a deep dish 9/16 socket as the length is just long enough to clear the bell housing and not too long to hit the steel tubes, the bolt is usually pretty tight so I use a 7/8 deep socket witha 18 " long extension , slide the socket over the end of the ratchet and use the extension as a coon-ass cheater pipe --------------- when doing an adjustment on the belt it is always a good idea while you have it loosened up to check the slack of the bearings , the older idler assembles had cone bearings and races with grease packed in them , the newer assembles have sealed bearings , I use to rebuild them in the past and you still can if the bearing doesn't mess up the shaft , but I find that more times than not the bearing does spin on the shaft when it fails and rings the shaft or seizes up on it</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fishfiles, post: 50116, member: 782"] I hear ya Mr. Deere , I have a T180 belt and idler on order right now and that drive belt was only $25 but very high 3 hundred plus for the idler assembly ------------but Harry would have had to add 60 miles times 2 worth of fuel , 2 hours plus worth of time , plus a $6 bridge toll charge to the cost of the belt , making it a good saving -------Napa can match up some of the drive belts , lucky I am close to the main store as they are the only one that ever has it in stock , they are not cheaper , in fact they are more expensive , but sometimes , time is worth more than money -------here is another trick I have learned about doing the drive belt adjustment use a 1/2 dive ratchet with a deep dish 9/16 socket as the length is just long enough to clear the bell housing and not too long to hit the steel tubes, the bolt is usually pretty tight so I use a 7/8 deep socket witha 18 “ long extension , slide the socket over the end of the ratchet and use the extension as a coon-ass cheater pipe --------------- when doing an adjustment on the belt it is always a good idea while you have it loosened up to check the slack of the bearings , the older idler assembles had cone bearings and races with grease packed in them , the newer assembles have sealed bearings , I use to rebuild them in the past and you still can if the bearing doesn't mess up the shaft , but I find that more times than not the bearing does spin on the shaft when it fails and rings the shaft or seizes up on it [/QUOTE]
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