SERIOUS PROBLEM: Bobcat 843

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

HanSolo

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
299
How hard is that tube to get at? If you have to pull things to get at it, suddenly spending $73 on an original part doesn't sound too bad, especially if it is nice and accessible right now. Just sayin'....
Got the flywheel back from the machinists yesterday. Looks great! They flipped the ring gear, cut the blades down and balanced. I also ordered the replacement tube from Bobcat. Looks like good weather Sunday so I'll be in the belly of the beast pulling the hydrostatic pump!
 photo 20130404_155934_zps2b017271.jpg

 photo 20130404_155950_zps2fc2bcef.jpg

 photo 20130404_164341_zps2088ccc6.jpg
 

bigmackerel1

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
47
Got the flywheel back from the machinists yesterday. Looks great! They flipped the ring gear, cut the blades down and balanced. I also ordered the replacement tube from Bobcat. Looks like good weather Sunday so I'll be in the belly of the beast pulling the hydrostatic pump!
HanSolo: Thanks for the pictures. Do you have 3 Zerk fittings on your new U-Joint?
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,839
HanSolo: Thanks, I now feel a lot better, since I lubed 3 Zerks on my 843. Looking forward to when you get the 843 running again. Good luck.
Looks good, i wonder how much air flow it will have cut down on, hopefully it will still have more than enough to keep cool.
 

HanSolo

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
299
Looks good, i wonder how much air flow it will have cut down on, hopefully it will still have more than enough to keep cool.
Alrighty. I got the hydrostatic pump out yesterday. Not too much drama. Hardest part was getting to the 15/16" bolt on the underside of the pump. I had to cut a wrench in half to get 1/8 turns. First I removed the large mounting bracket at the back of the pump which gives you great access to hoses. That also gives you the ability to jack the rear of the pump up.
 photo 20130407_135713_zpse7835b81.jpg

Next I removed the servo assembly on the left side for access to the two large hoses on that side. You disconnect the three linkage points and two small hoses. All the adjustments should still be good.
 photo 20130407_141410_zpsb2a79a7c.jpg

The two large hoses have elbow fittings that can be removed after pulling the pump.
 photo 20130407_142334_zpsb1923dcd.jpg

There's a T fitting on the other side that can be a little tricky getting lose because of large hoses going to the front hydraulic pumps. Note that 15/16" and 1" stubby wrenches are really needed for this job. Some hose connections quite tight and requiring a cheater pipe.
 photo 20130407_143705_zpse838a787.jpg

To get to that lower attaching bolt I first used a pry bar to lift the pump but then came up with this come-along rig. That worked quite nicely and left the underside clear for loosening. Your basically just feeling your way around the front of the pump. Prepare to put your face right in there unless you have really long arms!
 photo 20130407_150851_zpsb3bfb217.jpg

Here's what you see when the hydrostatic pump is out. That's the rear of the hydraulic pumps. They're splinded together with an internal coupler. There's a large sealing o-ring. You see I've already sealed and covered loose hose ends with this machine sitting outdoors. After the photo was taken, I covered the exposed area with a shop towel, plastic sheet and e-taped tight.
 photo 20130407_160410_zpse6cfea6a.jpg

Here's the hydrostatic pump on my tailgate. The linkage bracket was removed along with the large elbows (those have o-rings also). I couldn't get the extension pipe off so it's going with the pump to the re-builder. I doubled wrapped and taped the pump for shipping. That won't be cheap. That sucker is HEAVY!
 photo 20130407_170251_zps7dfc687c.jpg
 

Impact-vector

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2011
Messages
66
Alrighty. I got the hydrostatic pump out yesterday. Not too much drama. Hardest part was getting to the 15/16" bolt on the underside of the pump. I had to cut a wrench in half to get 1/8 turns. First I removed the large mounting bracket at the back of the pump which gives you great access to hoses. That also gives you the ability to jack the rear of the pump up.

Next I removed the servo assembly on the left side for access to the two large hoses on that side. You disconnect the three linkage points and two small hoses. All the adjustments should still be good.

The two large hoses have elbow fittings that can be removed after pulling the pump.

There's a T fitting on the other side that can be a little tricky getting lose because of large hoses going to the front hydraulic pumps. Note that 15/16" and 1" stubby wrenches are really needed for this job. Some hose connections quite tight and requiring a cheater pipe.

To get to that lower attaching bolt I first used a pry bar to lift the pump but then came up with this come-along rig. That worked quite nicely and left the underside clear for loosening. Your basically just feeling your way around the front of the pump. Prepare to put your face right in there unless you have really long arms!

Here's what you see when the hydrostatic pump is out. That's the rear of the hydraulic pumps. They're splinded together with an internal coupler. There's a large sealing o-ring. You see I've already sealed and covered loose hose ends with this machine sitting outdoors. After the photo was taken, I covered the exposed area with a shop towel, plastic sheet and e-taped tight.

Here's the hydrostatic pump on my tailgate. The linkage bracket was removed along with the large elbows (those have o-rings also). I couldn't get the extension pipe off so it's going with the pump to the re-builder. I doubled wrapped and taped the pump for shipping. That won't be cheap. That sucker is HEAVY!
Fedex ground is your friend! I paid about $40 to have a transmission shipped. I was impressed with the price. But open an account online. Dont go into a store. you will pay more!
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,839
Fedex ground is your friend! I paid about $40 to have a transmission shipped. I was impressed with the price. But open an account online. Dont go into a store. you will pay more!
Nice job getting it out.
Looks like the servo steering has broken before. I had to make a new rod for a guy up the road with an 843. He had it done once before too by a neighbour, so it seems to be a common failure point.
Lets hope the repair won't be too costly.
 
OP
OP
aaron187

aaron187

Active member
Joined
Feb 11, 2013
Messages
34
Nice job getting it out.
Looks like the servo steering has broken before. I had to make a new rod for a guy up the road with an 843. He had it done once before too by a neighbour, so it seems to be a common failure point.
Lets hope the repair won't be too costly.
Nice pics. I took my cherry picker to lift up the pump so I could get to the bolt. I had a wrench that would fit barely in there ( I have long arms ) and I could get a tiny turn each time eventually getting it out. We got our pump ready to rebuild at the shop, $920 bucks parts and labor. Also my smaller servo was broken exactly like yours. They can put a new shaft in by just removing a snap ring, no big deal. Also I'm getting a used ( not broken ) blower flywheel from a Bobcat scrap yard in Texas. My uncle knows some people down there and is hooking me up. Not sure on that price yet.
 

jlmoon

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
67
Nice pics. I took my cherry picker to lift up the pump so I could get to the bolt. I had a wrench that would fit barely in there ( I have long arms ) and I could get a tiny turn each time eventually getting it out. We got our pump ready to rebuild at the shop, $920 bucks parts and labor. Also my smaller servo was broken exactly like yours. They can put a new shaft in by just removing a snap ring, no big deal. Also I'm getting a used ( not broken ) blower flywheel from a Bobcat scrap yard in Texas. My uncle knows some people down there and is hooking me up. Not sure on that price yet.
Hello Aaron, can you check to see if that wrecking yard has the flywheel side motor plate for a 843? I have cherry 843 that has had a poor repair done on the starter area of the plate. Let me know, would appreciate it. Thanks
 
OP
OP
aaron187

aaron187

Active member
Joined
Feb 11, 2013
Messages
34
Hello Aaron, can you check to see if that wrecking yard has the flywheel side motor plate for a 843? I have cherry 843 that has had a poor repair done on the starter area of the plate. Let me know, would appreciate it. Thanks
UPDATE: I ordered the U-joints from Drivetrain America's website, The hydraulic pump is ready to be picked up tomorrow, we ordered a new flywheel from the "Stealer"ship today because we were unable to find a blower flywheel from a scrap yard. So as soon as the parts get here, its time for work
 

HanSolo

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
299
UPDATE: I ordered the U-joints from Drivetrain America's website, The hydraulic pump is ready to be picked up tomorrow, we ordered a new flywheel from the "Stealer"ship today because we were unable to find a blower flywheel from a scrap yard. So as soon as the parts get here, its time for work
Very interesting that both our 843 repairs are following almost identical time-line. My rear pump is on the way back from Central Hydraulics. I expect delivery today or tomorrow. I got the replacement tube installed already and bought a much needed set of large SAE sockets and wrenches. I also have the needed o-rings so might be able to start putting things back together this weekend.
 

flhxharleydude

New member
Joined
Apr 18, 2013
Messages
2
Aaron Loader Parts Source has great technical service for problems like this , they usually have these parts in stock and can provide a quote for you.
 
OP
OP
aaron187

aaron187

Active member
Joined
Feb 11, 2013
Messages
34
Aaron Loader Parts Source has great technical service for problems like this , they usually have these parts in stock and can provide a quote for you.
Hansolo, this is super important. The guy who rebuilt my pump said that it was crucial to manually put the required hydraulic fluid in the pump ( likely through the large lines on the sides ) and to turn it over by hand ( or put a wrench or something on it ). Just make sure its full before you put it all back together and running. Also, make sure there is not a cutoff valve in there. He said he's seen a lot of pumps come back because they didnt work ( not installed correctly ) he said when he pulled them apart they were bone dry. So check and double check all your lines to make sure that the hydraulic fluid can flow freely.
 

HanSolo

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
299
Hansolo, this is super important. The guy who rebuilt my pump said that it was crucial to manually put the required hydraulic fluid in the pump ( likely through the large lines on the sides ) and to turn it over by hand ( or put a wrench or something on it ). Just make sure its full before you put it all back together and running. Also, make sure there is not a cutoff valve in there. He said he's seen a lot of pumps come back because they didnt work ( not installed correctly ) he said when he pulled them apart they were bone dry. So check and double check all your lines to make sure that the hydraulic fluid can flow freely.
Copy that Aaron. Dave at Central Hydraulics recommended another way. Put as much fluid in the charge hose as it will take (that comes off the filter to the T fitting on the right side). Then just bump the starter a dozen or so times with out actually starting the motor. He said the pump should be primed after that. I got the pump back in today, all hoses hooked back up, fuel tank back on and shroud back in. I'm going to do a little welding on the motor plate. There's a crack by the starter. Then it will be time to stuff that joker back in! Pictures soon.
 

Zorack

Well-known member
Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
123
Copy that Aaron. Dave at Central Hydraulics recommended another way. Put as much fluid in the charge hose as it will take (that comes off the filter to the T fitting on the right side). Then just bump the starter a dozen or so times with out actually starting the motor. He said the pump should be primed after that. I got the pump back in today, all hoses hooked back up, fuel tank back on and shroud back in. I'm going to do a little welding on the motor plate. There's a crack by the starter. Then it will be time to stuff that joker back in! Pictures soon.
Love the pics and the updates :)
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,839
Love the pics and the updates :)
I'm not sure how your pumps are plumbed, but with the 743's i have worked on, i primed my pump by filling the oil tank, then i had a helper put their heel on the lift pedal then pulled the lift cylinders out. This draws oil from the tank, through the pump(s) to the cylinder. I did that with both cylinders to get as much in as possible, then get them to push the pedal the other way, then push the ram sticks in. Then retract, just to get as much oil in as possible.
I don't know if that is an option for you or not, it may only prime your hydraulic pump.
When i started it, i made sure it wasn't long with the wheels off the ground, they didn't take long to start turning, so they had oil.
 

HanSolo

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
299
I'm not sure how your pumps are plumbed, but with the 743's i have worked on, i primed my pump by filling the oil tank, then i had a helper put their heel on the lift pedal then pulled the lift cylinders out. This draws oil from the tank, through the pump(s) to the cylinder. I did that with both cylinders to get as much in as possible, then get them to push the pedal the other way, then push the ram sticks in. Then retract, just to get as much oil in as possible.
I don't know if that is an option for you or not, it may only prime your hydraulic pump.
When i started it, i made sure it wasn't long with the wheels off the ground, they didn't take long to start turning, so they had oil.
That's a great idea Tazza! I'll take it a step further though and use my M700 to lift the arms of the 843 with a buddy pressing on the peddle. I know there's a charge hose going straight into that rear pump. I'll keep an eye on the fluid level in the tank as I'm doing that. If it goes down, it's moving somewhere! Here's some photos of this weekends's fun. Here's the rebuilt pump. Note that they put the pintle flange on upside down. Took me a while to figure out why the arm mounting holes weren't lining up as they should. Duh!
 photo 20130419_180611_zpsd807d0e9.jpg

Rebuilt pump back in. I left the lifting straps on while hooking up the hoses. That made some of those hard to reach hoses a little less painful.
 photo 20130420_112224_zpsaa629ec7.jpg

Hoses back on, servo installed and large mounting bracket back in.
 photo 20130420_135910_zps2f0312e4.jpg
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,839
That's a great idea Tazza! I'll take it a step further though and use my M700 to lift the arms of the 843 with a buddy pressing on the peddle. I know there's a charge hose going straight into that rear pump. I'll keep an eye on the fluid level in the tank as I'm doing that. If it goes down, it's moving somewhere! Here's some photos of this weekends's fun. Here's the rebuilt pump. Note that they put the pintle flange on upside down. Took me a while to figure out why the arm mounting holes weren't lining up as they should. Duh!

Rebuilt pump back in. I left the lifting straps on while hooking up the hoses. That made some of those hard to reach hoses a little less painful.

Hoses back on, servo installed and large mounting bracket back in.
Using the other machine will work. Just remember to put blocks or a jack under the rear when you do it, you don't wanna topple the machine backwards with your mate inside.
Looking forward to seeing pictures if it moving around.
 

HanSolo

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
299
Using the other machine will work. Just remember to put blocks or a jack under the rear when you do it, you don't wanna topple the machine backwards with your mate inside.
Looking forward to seeing pictures if it moving around.
Already up on blocks on the rear and I think it would be best to block up the front too. When I start testing the drive motors, it's probably adviseable to have the least resistance. Speaking of hydraulic fluid - does anyone know what the fluid capacity is on the 843?
 
Top