Man, that sounds like a real nightmare! It's a really tight spot where those mounting bolts are. I tried various lenght 1/4" drive 15/32 sockets to extract. I eventually discovered a small box end wrench got the best bit. But it had to have thin walls. One of those times when a cheap-o tool serves you better than higher quality tool.
Ok, I need to know where one small black wire coming off one side of a solenoid goes. should be across one that has a big red battery type wire on it. After I hook that up, and find my exhaust pipe, it will be time to turn the key
What solenoid? could it be a ground wire?
Found it, goes to the glow plugs. grounds them or something. Well it would start if I had a battery ( or better ground ) to turn it over. It turned over a couple times for me but mostly starter is clicking and only reading 11.8 volts. I'll charge up a few batteries for tomorrow.
Motor is LOCKED UP. That explains perfectly when the u-joint exploded. If the engine stopped instantly from around 2,000 rpms, the centrifical force would have been enough to break the u-joint connection as well as the input shaft or anything else connected to it for that matter. I'll be pulling it soon, my uncle has a deisel mechanic who rebuilds reasonably. I'll be taking it to him and should have a fresh engine! ( deep breath, stay positive )
ouch thats rough!! hope it isn't too bad.
I too hope it isn't too bad.
I will, but as of right now, the water pump is dripping a good 3 drips per second. So that tells me it was ran hot, and it threw a rod connector and the crank rotated around and is jamming the rod against the sidewall of the sleeve / cylinder bore area. I've seen it too many times rebuilding engines. I would attempt this one but I've never done a deisel. Plus i'm frustrated with it.
That really blows Aaron. I was fortunate that mine had a motor that you could start up. It just wouldn't do anything. I had a recent set-back also. The starter went bad and I pick it up from a re-builder tomorrow. I hope your engine can be salvaged. Heck, if you have that re-built, two thirds of your drive-train will be like new!
I know it is an old post, but I followed down the same rabbit hole. I bought the neapco u-joints and they look identical except they are about ~1/4" too narrow. Did you ever find out what these ujoints were used on? I assume from the continuation of the thread you just purchased bobcat branded parts? Thanks,
Hello everyone! A long time ago (August 2019) I started the journey of repairing my disabled Bobcat 843. This was my first encounter working on a this type of equipment. Prior / during the process I reached out to this forum for information. I found some useful tips, tricks and suggested repair methods through this thread. I stumbled a little along the way because I failed to follow through the entire thread. After a short hiatus I am able to return to this project. I am finally making forward progress! Yes! ----------- I am documenting the process and uploading informational videos on the process via YouTube. When I started I hoped to find reference instructional videos, but could not find any solid information. I hope my videos are educational and informative for anyone working on a Bobcat 843 or a Bobcat 843 UJOINT & PUMP COUPLING. ------------ If you would like to follow along please visit my YouTube Channel at the following link: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX61KjaMraBMgVo-wK5bFQQ ------------ Here is a link to the first video of the series "BOBCAT 843 - UJOINT & PUMP COUPLING REPAIR INTRO": https://youtu.be/1qyVyXEqqbA ------------- I hope to regularly upload additional information on the repair along with other mechanical projects. Check it out! Thanks, Flat Thunder Channel
I am relatively certain this thread has reached a dead end many moons ago. Just an update on my repair / 843 project. She finally runs!
Check out my channel Flat Thunder Channel
Great to hear you finally got that 843 going! Mine bit the dust after getting quite a few tough projects done. The gear boxes that drive the wheels failed and those are NLA. Do check your chain case oil, keep it full and clean. When the seals and bearings go on the axles really bad things happen. After parting out the 843 pump and engine, I bought a low hour 743. It's a great machine but struggles with my backhoe attachment. Cheers!I am relatively certain this thread has reached a dead end many moons ago. Just an update on my repair / 843 project. She finally runs!
Thanks! I will make sure to check those before putting it in any heavy work. I feel like I am at a point of no return with this project. I have invested so much time and effort into it. Hopefully we can get several years of use out of this old girl!
Do tell me what is an easy way to check the oil in the case? I have searched through the manual, but have not found the magic location yet. I know I have an axle seal leaking, but would like to forgo spending all the money time and effort at this point. I would like to make sure it's full and operate it on a few jobs before changing all the seals. I am still learning about this unit and determining if it is functional enough to keep around. Check out my channel Flat Thunder Channel
There should be a drain plug on the front of the chain case behind the quick attach assembly. Just make sure it's topped off and not milky. PITA to change the oil as you'll need to extract with some kind of pump.
I thought that might be the location, but it looked a little low on the body. I assumed the fill line would be higher. Thank you for taking time to respond! I repaired the quick attach bucket mechanism tonight. The bucket no longer falls off the tool plate. I feel like everything is headed in the right direction.
I topped off the crankcase oil and put the 843 to work tonight. She performed great! I did notice the front left axle seal is leaking. Do you know if a specification for the bearing endplay exists? I feel like the bearing set is a little loose. Not wobbly out of round loose, but feels like it has a little too much end play. Curious if I can just snug up the inner retaining bolt to reduce the end play. The slow leak isn't too bothersome, and I would like to finish this project before a major teardown. Ideas on cheap timken or national brand bearings? The loader parts store seals pricey on their kit. Thanks,