OK, new issue here. Just finished repairing leaking seals on the tilt/lift spools. I got it done, although I do have a leak in the front of the lift block. I guess I either put one of the seals in backwards or damaged one. I'm not too pissed now that I know how get the spools out and back in. The BIG problem I have now is the traction lock kicks in while I'm moving. If I stop for a moment, I can start moving again. This seems too ironic to not be related to the spool leak, but how is that possible? Could this be a ground issue? The one thing I did do is leave the cab hold down nuts off when taking the test drive. Could this cause a bad ground for one of the sensors? I also used a water hose to wash off the undercariage, etc with the cab off. Could this have screwed up something?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
The ground wire is hardwired to the coil so the unbolted cab shouldn't be an issue. Sounds like the hold circuit in the coil is failing. Check the resistance in the coil. There are three wires going to the solenoid, one is open, one is hold and the other is ground. Can't remember which is which offhand or remember the resistance but your dealer should be able to tell you.Other than that, check the connections on that circuit etc, you may have loosened one while you were working on the control valve. Just had a thought, try swapping the park brake relay with another one, it might be that simple. Relay is in the fuse box right below the seat.
There is nothing with the control vavle that would botter the brake. Look at the top of the solenoid, is it cracked? Over time, that big clunck you hear when you release the bracke hammers that solenid. Water gets in there and shorts it out. If the brake is coming on uncommannd, it should be setting a code. If the solenoid looks bd, replace it and it's relay. Pay attenion how it comes out, only goes in one way. If there are not codes and solenoid looks fine, you may have a engine spend sensor problem. If that sensor goes bad, it won't code and the brake will come on because the controller thinks the engine is off. One other thing, is your machine ACS? I'm asking because if your control vavle is leaking and it gets in the acturators on the front vavle, it will wreck them. There are two of them at $600 a pop. P.S. There is nothing wrong with washing the inside of a machine, I pressure wash them all the time.The ground wire is hardwired to the coil so the unbolted cab shouldn't be an issue. Sounds like the hold circuit in the coil is failing. Check the resistance in the coil. There are three wires going to the solenoid, one is open, one is hold and the other is ground. Can't remember which is which offhand or remember the resistance but your dealer should be able to tell you.Other than that, check the connections on that circuit etc, you may have loosened one while you were working on the control valve. Just had a thought, try swapping the park brake relay with another one, it might be that simple. Relay is in the fuse box right below the seat.
I checked all the connections fuses, etc, still doing the same thing. I don't understand why this started when I put new seals in the spools. Gotta be something I did I guess. This is really starting to piss me off. The traction light does go out, and the traction lock just sits there and cycles. I doesn't start it though for a few minutes, I can get to the site where I'm working and and soon after it starts. Would heat somewhere be an issue? I know there's sensors involved with the traction lock, I hate to just start replacing stuff when it's probably not necessary, and it's expensive. Can't I just hot wire the damn thing? That would prove it's a sensor I guess. I've had to limp it back in the barn three days in a row now, I've got to get this thing fixed. Thanks for any help.There is nothing with the control vavle that would botter the brake. Look at the top of the solenoid, is it cracked? Over time, that big clunck you hear when you release the bracke hammers that solenid. Water gets in there and shorts it out. If the brake is coming on uncommannd, it should be setting a code. If the solenoid looks bd, replace it and it's relay. Pay attenion how it comes out, only goes in one way. If there are not codes and solenoid looks fine, you may have a engine spend sensor problem. If that sensor goes bad, it won't code and the brake will come on because the controller thinks the engine is off. One other thing, is your machine ACS? I'm asking because if your control vavle is leaking and it gets in the acturators on the front vavle, it will wreck them. There are two of them at $600 a pop. P.S. There is nothing wrong with washing the inside of a machine, I pressure wash them all the time.
Oh, the only codes are the PWM switch out of range, which I guess is another problem I have to fix one day, and the code for the fuel shufoff solenoid which I have to replace (I'm tying it open with a zip tie until I get the 300+ bucks to replace it.There is nothing with the control vavle that would botter the brake. Look at the top of the solenoid, is it cracked? Over time, that big clunck you hear when you release the bracke hammers that solenid. Water gets in there and shorts it out. If the brake is coming on uncommannd, it should be setting a code. If the solenoid looks bd, replace it and it's relay. Pay attenion how it comes out, only goes in one way. If there are not codes and solenoid looks fine, you may have a engine spend sensor problem. If that sensor goes bad, it won't code and the brake will come on because the controller thinks the engine is off. One other thing, is your machine ACS? I'm asking because if your control vavle is leaking and it gets in the acturators on the front vavle, it will wreck them. There are two of them at $600 a pop. P.S. There is nothing wrong with washing the inside of a machine, I pressure wash them all the time.
You can pull the brake out, but you didn't hear that from me. Did you swap relays? What does the top of the solenid look like, is it cracked? I still wonder about the rpm sensor. Bad rpm sensor will not set a code. Pull it out and look at the back of the flywheel is it rusty? With the engine, jam a piece of wood threw the hole to polish the flywheel. Reinstall the sensor setting it to a .050" air gap. If you replace the fuel solenoid and it still don't work, the solenoid will not pull in until the engine cranks and sees rpm.Oh, the only codes are the PWM switch out of range, which I guess is another problem I have to fix one day, and the code for the fuel shufoff solenoid which I have to replace (I'm tying it open with a zip tie until I get the 300+ bucks to replace it.
7LBSSMALLIE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
- Messages
- 1,294
what is seat bar light doing . can you move unit witht seat bar up and overide pressed. also note , take apart all connections include controller inspect for a light white build up as well as bent or pushed back pins. clean with brake clean apply die electric look at harness especially pinch points like where cab raises and lowers. if solenoid gets replaced replace relay as well (cause and effect)Oh, the only codes are the PWM switch out of range, which I guess is another problem I have to fix one day, and the code for the fuel shufoff solenoid which I have to replace (I'm tying it open with a zip tie until I get the 300+ bucks to replace it.
The seat bar light never goes out. Doesn't throw a code either. Doesn't that mean the RPM sensor can be bad? I haven't tried driving with the seat bar up and override. I Can try that. I pulled the flywheel RPM sensor out and the plastic cover on the end that was suppsoed to get knocked off when new (saw that in the manual) is still on there. Is that right? Should I pull the cover off for good and try again? Grasping at straws here...what is seat bar light doing . can you move unit witht seat bar up and overide pressed. also note , take apart all connections include controller inspect for a light white build up as well as bent or pushed back pins. clean with brake clean apply die electric look at harness especially pinch points like where cab raises and lowers. if solenoid gets replaced replace relay as well (cause and effect)
trying to relate the problem to having just done spool seals ----------- if you have foot pedals then you must have had to unplug the brake solinoid to be able to get the cross over linkage bar out the way to get at the spool seals , did one of the three wires in the plug push partially out the plug when reconnecting it , maybe the wire from the plug is rubbing on the cross over bar and shorting out , maybe pulling on the plug or hitting the solinoid during the spool seal change out did it , maybe there is a crack in the plastic top of the solinoid and when you pressure washed some water got in to it -----------or maybe and most probally it can be chaulked up to " It's just one thing after another "The seat bar light never goes out. Doesn't throw a code either. Doesn't that mean the RPM sensor can be bad? I haven't tried driving with the seat bar up and override. I Can try that. I pulled the flywheel RPM sensor out and the plastic cover on the end that was suppsoed to get knocked off when new (saw that in the manual) is still on there. Is that right? Should I pull the cover off for good and try again? Grasping at straws here...
I already checked the plug to the solenoid and it looks OK. I did not closely inspect the top of the solenoid for cracks, I will do that. The Flywheel is rusty on the face where the sensor sits, and that plastic cover is still on it. Didn't know the fuel solenoid wouldn't pull in until it sees engine RPM. Maybe that's it for both problems. I will polish the surfaces and reintall tomorrow, crossing my fingers.trying to relate the problem to having just done spool seals ----------- if you have foot pedals then you must have had to unplug the brake solinoid to be able to get the cross over linkage bar out the way to get at the spool seals , did one of the three wires in the plug push partially out the plug when reconnecting it , maybe the wire from the plug is rubbing on the cross over bar and shorting out , maybe pulling on the plug or hitting the solinoid during the spool seal change out did it , maybe there is a crack in the plastic top of the solinoid and when you pressure washed some water got in to it -----------or maybe and most probally it can be chaulked up to " It's just one thing after another "
Have more info. Tonnight I let the bobcat run, with the traction lock released, but without moving the machine (I sat in the cab). After about 7-8 minutes the traction lock started cycling on and off again, just like it has the last four days. This has got to be heat related, right? It never throws a code, so that must be the engine RPM sensor, right? That, or once the traction lock solenoid warms up it starts cycling. I'm going to call the dealer and see what both parts cost, hopefully not too much and I might buy them both. I'm still puzzled why this started after I changed the spool seals. Maybe Murphys law...I already checked the plug to the solenoid and it looks OK. I did not closely inspect the top of the solenoid for cracks, I will do that. The Flywheel is rusty on the face where the sensor sits, and that plastic cover is still on it. Didn't know the fuel solenoid wouldn't pull in until it sees engine RPM. Maybe that's it for both problems. I will polish the surfaces and reintall tomorrow, crossing my fingers.
When it starts cycling, do you try swapping the relays? Also does the solenoid get hot? It may get a little warm, but I have seen them get so hot you couldn't touch them.Have more info. Tonnight I let the bobcat run, with the traction lock released, but without moving the machine (I sat in the cab). After about 7-8 minutes the traction lock started cycling on and off again, just like it has the last four days. This has got to be heat related, right? It never throws a code, so that must be the engine RPM sensor, right? That, or once the traction lock solenoid warms up it starts cycling. I'm going to call the dealer and see what both parts cost, hopefully not too much and I might buy them both. I'm still puzzled why this started after I changed the spool seals. Maybe Murphys law...
Bobcatdan, those are good ideas. No, I didn't think of that. I'll give that a try.When it starts cycling, do you try swapping the relays? Also does the solenoid get hot? It may get a little warm, but I have seen them get so hot you couldn't touch them.
Thought I had this fixed, but started again. I replced the traction lock solenoid (the old one was bad) and the engine RPM sensor. It ran it several times, but never more than 30 min or so at a time. I finally ran it long enough for it to get good and hot and the traction lock started cycling again. What am I missing? I get no codes, the traction lock light does cycle on and off with the solenoid, could the BICS controller be bad? I saw mention on here of battey voltage, guess I should check for over or under volt. The battery is brand new. It really seems to be a heat issue. it doesn't start until either the traction lock or BICS gets good and warm. Unless the voltage regulator is bad?Bobcatdan, those are good ideas. No, I didn't think of that. I'll give that a try.
Oh, replaced the relay also.Thought I had this fixed, but started again. I replced the traction lock solenoid (the old one was bad) and the engine RPM sensor. It ran it several times, but never more than 30 min or so at a time. I finally ran it long enough for it to get good and hot and the traction lock started cycling again. What am I missing? I get no codes, the traction lock light does cycle on and off with the solenoid, could the BICS controller be bad? I saw mention on here of battey voltage, guess I should check for over or under volt. The battery is brand new. It really seems to be a heat issue. it doesn't start until either the traction lock or BICS gets good and warm. Unless the voltage regulator is bad?
Look the wiring harness over VERY good. just had a T300 that the brake came on when ever it liked, rub in the harness by the hyd tank. It would give the controller a crazy RPM reading.Oh, replaced the relay also.
In regards to the wiring, when I added hydraulic fluid after changing the seals, the funnel fell and quite a bit of hydralic fluid spilled all over the RPM sensor and wiring. I cleaned it really well, but maybe the wire or connector got damaged from the fluid? Any chance that's part of the problem? At this point I'm pulling my hair out and would actually rewire that section if I thought it would do any good. Thoughts?Look the wiring harness over VERY good. just had a T300 that the brake came on when ever it liked, rub in the harness by the hyd tank. It would give the controller a crazy RPM reading.
Have a volt meter handy, run the machine and check alt output when its acting up. High or low battery voltage can effect the park.In regards to the wiring, when I added hydraulic fluid after changing the seals, the funnel fell and quite a bit of hydralic fluid spilled all over the RPM sensor and wiring. I cleaned it really well, but maybe the wire or connector got damaged from the fluid? Any chance that's part of the problem? At this point I'm pulling my hair out and would actually rewire that section if I thought it would do any good. Thoughts?
Voltage is 14.04 volts. I give up. I'm hot wiring it with 2 switches.Have a volt meter handy, run the machine and check alt output when its acting up. High or low battery voltage can effect the park.