Background: Had the machine parked for about a month. The battery died and the machine was dead when I went to start it. The battery was over 5 years ols=d so I figured it was time and I replaced it. I tested it and it had a dead cell. After replacing the battery, when I went to start it, it turns over but will not start. Plenty of fuel, etc. I suspected the Fuel Shutoff solenoid and tested it using the procedure in the bobcat manual. It was out of spec by both ohm tests. I removed the solenoid, grounded it to the engine, and it started right away and ran normal. I went out and got a new one (from the Kubota dealer who was closer). When I installed it, it turns over but does not start. Any ideas? I hope I didn't waste $175 on a new solenoid.
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7LBSSMALLIE
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realys and fuses.
I swapped some of the relays around and checked all of the fuses. If I bypassed the fuel solenoid again to get it running, would it hurt it to drive it to my house? then I could get power and my tools.
I would bypass the shut off to move it. I would check your grounds. If it works grounding it to the engine that must mean you have power there. I would put a test light between the power wire and the ground for the solenoid.
Thanks to all. When I pulled the solenoid, it would beep and not turn over unless I grounded it to the block. I'm guessing the computer sensed it was not there and sent a beep code. I saw in another post something about a fuse on the timer for the solenoid. Does this apply to my machine? I checked all of the fuses and switched the relays around which did not help. I'm going to bypass the solenoid to move the machine to my garage where all of my tools are.
There is a fuel shut off relay and fuse but the timer is integrated into the computer on your machine. Yes the beep was the machine not sensing the solenoid. I would test for voltage going to the solenoid. One wire is a pull that powers up to pull the solenoid 1 is a hold that will have power to keep it engaged and one is a ground
Thanks. I bypassed the solenoid (just loosened it until the plunger allowed it to start) so I could drive it to my garage. I put the boom up and raised the cab. I checked the voltage at the 3 wire plug to the solenoid. two "tan" wires (one bigger than the other and a black wire. One of the tan wires had 4.8v and the other two had none. I assume one is the ground. I looked for rat chewed wires and found one. I re-checked the fuses and relays and they look ok. I did notice I have no headlights. The tail lights work fine. I swapped relays around and nothing made the headlights come on. Checked the grounds on the battery and they look fine. Battery is brand new. could the headlights and the solenoid be related issues?
One more thing: When the machine would not turn over due to dead battery, I jumped the machine with my truck. I left the machine hooked up to the truck for quite a while but the battery had a dead cell so it never would charge much. Is the a fusible link that maybe got fried? Above the battery there is a round thing with wires in one end and one end that opens. Anyone know what that is? Electrical is not my strongest thing.....
I believe that is a diagnostic port. I would check for power to the relays. If you pull out relay there should be 12 volts at 1 terminal all the time 1 will get power when you turn the key on
I know some of the relays have power as I can hear them click. The rear lights work but not the headlights. with the key on, I can hear the relay click when I turn on the lights. Only around 5.8 volts at one fuel solenoid wire. I had my son watch the multimeter at the fuel solenoid plug while I touched all over the wiring harness and all the plugs, looking for it to jump to 12v if I found the bad wire. I also jiggled all the fuses and relays but nothing caused the voltage to change at the solenoid plug. I read on here to pull the fuse panel out of the rubber gasket and I did that, too. Looks pretty clean back there. Could it be the ignition switch?
So I found out what the deal is: 4 or 5 of the wires on the J1 P01 controller plug are chewed in half, including the #40 pin position which is Fuel Pull Relay. Of course the wire is chewed off right at the plug. May be too short to solder. The other wires are longer and can be repaired, I think. Does the plug come apart? What is the usual repair for this? Is it hard to R&R this harness?
Wow, the harness is $1650 and they said 8-9 hours to install. That is a lot for sure. Gonna have to try to repair it.
Pretty sure you can open the plugs, but worst case, can you install a jumper wire in place of the bad connector?
Even use a dremel style tool and grind the plastic back enough to get solder on to the stub left, then secure it with glue.
I would try to find replacement pins for the plug if the plug housing is ok. Probably duetsch or similar. I would think a bobcat dealer would have the ability to fix your plug if you don't feel comfortable
Thanks I was able to solder a wire onto the fuel pull pin and the machine starts as soon as you hit the starter. I repaired the other three wires also. There were two identical broken green wires so I had to guess where they attached to. I got no beeps so I assume I guessed correctly. No codes no beeps. I still don't have headlights. The tail lights work and the dash lights up as it should but no headlights. I will continue to trace those wires to see if I can get them working. I did a charging system check just for giggles. I'm not sure the battery is fully charged but the alternator output reads 15.2v. Is this too high?????
The manual states the max is like 14.4v so my 15.2v is too high. The wiring looks ok. What can cause the is overcharging? I know the regulator is a possibility but is there anything else?
That does sound too high, the regulator will be inside the alternator, i guess it could be bad.
Glad you got it all working, hopefully the light issue could just be a relay or fuse.
I traced the headlight wire from the cab to the top/behind of the hydraulic oil tank. The wire was chewed right at a big connector. Soldered it and the lights work now. Took the alternator to an alternator shop and it was charging 15.2v. Regulator was rusted. Guy totally rebuilt it for $150. Bobcat wanted $250 for a new one. Puts out 14.2v now. If I took it to the dealer for the wiring harness/headlights/charging system, it probably would have cost about $3000. I fixed it for $300. That helps. Now I got to figure out how to keep the mice out.
bobbie-g
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- Mar 15, 2004
- Messages
- 577
To keep the mice and rats away, I use a combination of peppermint and spearmint oils (not the food flavoring, get the essential oil, which is pricey). That seems to work, but I haven't done exhaustive tests. It evaporates, so it needs to be renewed every month or so. I've also heard that light keeps the mice at bay, so an led light in a few dark places may help.
--- Bobbie-G
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