Its possible it was extra, as long as you replaced what came out with new ones, it should be ok. As for cleaning inside the tube, its not really needed if you kept it clean.
I'm about to do this job on my 743 now the seals have arrived. I completely removed the ram, have to also clear blocked pin grease channels and generally clean up the pin areas for proper operation. Once I have replaced the seals, do I put the ram back with hydraulic lines hooked up and just let the ram fill by itself or is it necessary to add hydraulic fluid to the ram before it goes back? Does it air bleed by itself, how do I know when the ram has enough fluid to operate? Any advice greatly appreciated.... Cheers
as far as an extra oring , I have seen extras in kits but doubt yours is an extra , there are three large orings I can think of , one goes around the top of the gland nut threads one goes on the bottom of the gland nut threads , this bottom one also has a backup ring which should be on the outside of the oring , in other words away from the oil , the thrid goes under the orange color piston seal to give it spring , with out that one it will bypass oil internally and leak down ----------------------------------- on the other question about hoses , you need to loosen the hose on the back side of the casing to ease sliding the rod into the casing if not pressure will make it hard to go in , once in then tighten up the hose and the sir will bleed itself out , take care no one has there hands in the way when cranking up as I have seen that some machines will extend the rod some when you first crank it up , working the cylinder back and forth will get all the air out
When you say top of the gland nut threads do you mean the one I have highlighted in the picture:
looks right in your pic , amazing it came apart easy for you with that oring not having been in place , without it there water can penetrate in the threads , corrode and make it hard to get open-------I smear grease on the threads and orings of the gland nut and put oil on the piston before sliding it in try not to force it , go in slow and wiggle it around a little as you go ( thats sounds a little funny ) so as not the damage that piston seal , once you got it started you can tap it with a hammer to slam it home , when you get it back together and get the air out , grab a bucket full of something heavy and see if it will hold the load without creeping down if not then chances are the seal got knicked when sliding it in -----------how did you tighten up the nut ............ I see you got old dtock on the seal kit as the newer seal kits have a one piece green seal that replaces the back up ring and the oring on the bottom of the gland nut , I really don't like this type as I find it is harder to screw the gland in
Tightened nut with a large pipe wrench as I did not have a socket or open end the correct size.
Cylinder went back together easy, ran it for a while-about 2 hours with no leaks, thanks for the help
theNEWT - just run it, the air will bleed on its own, sorry for the late reply.
