how can you use a tail pipe expander to install a seal
how can you use a tail pipe expander to install a seal It expands the seal to enable it to more easily go over the shaft into place. Placing the seal into near boiling water will also help it become more pliable/flexible. Do a search in youtube, some good vids showing this ram having seals replaced.
Most rigid fiber or hard type o.d. seals are heated in a oven in cylinder shops and then slipped over the shaft. It is best to then clamp it down into the groove for a bit while it cools. ring compressor or hose clamps or similar work. Doesn't need to be super tight but it sure makes them go in easier. The i.d. seals can be fun in a small bore. lots of variations in seals though.
I rebuild cylinders almost daily , thinking back last week I did 7 , and I can see no good from a tail pipe expander or hot water in the rebuilding of a tilt cylinder on a Bobcat , changing of all the seals and orings is a 5 minute job using a pick and a ring compressor ,there is no sliding a seal over a shaft , the seal is inside the gland nut /head , the compressor is for the piston seal , if you don't have a ring compressor then a electrical tie strap or a hose clamp will work fine , a trick to not scare the leatrhery material that the piston seal is made of is if you are using a hose clamp then cut a plastic jug into a strip , wrap the strip around the piston over the seal before squeezing it so as to not damage the seal , if you use just a clamp it will put a mark in the seal where the screw mechanicism is , the material streches out as you roll it around the piston to get it into place , the compression of it puts it back to shape , it is not use to insert the piston into the bore like an engine piston , some people swear by starting fluid , after the seal of the piston is in place and is a little over sized and streched out they will spray it with the cold fluid causing it to shink back to a tight fit
I looked at it and wondered if I missed something in life.
You are right on that fishfiles, you have to have a smooth surface under the hose clamp. If I have one the right size I will use a fiber wear ring but plastic bottle would be easier to find. Don't do very many though.
I use the tailpipe expander to stretch the Teflon piston seal instead of the tool below that all the Bobcat service manuals say to use.
the problem with that strecher is , when is it enough and did you over do it , or did you have to put it on the tool 10 times to get it right -------------- if you barely put one side of the piston seal over the end of the piston and take a thin shanked pick and spin it around the piston as ou push down it minimizes the streach to just enough , it is fast and easy and pretty much " fool proof " , well let me rephrase that it is harder to mess up
The guys at my local seal shop said to use a hair drier and pull it with my hands. I Grab the seal and pull it to stretch it, put it in place and a bit of cardboard and a hose clamp or piston ring compressor to bring it back to size. Lube it up and install into the cylinder.
I'm now forced to replace the seals, was working the machine today an the seal went all together, pissing fluid all over the place. I was very close to the trailer so I limped my way there and got her loaded, what a mess.
hook the tilt cyl. hose together and you can run it
You don't have to take the cylinder off the machine , try to unscrew the gland nut / head , start with a extra large set of channel / slip joint pliers , alot of times they come off easy , if that don't work then I go for the tool that is made to fit into the pin holes , if that don't work then some heat from a torch , try to loosen the gland before you unpin the chrome rod side , so it is like in a vise , you can slide the chrome rod out the case , vise up the rod and break the piston nut loose , reseal and reverse the disassembling
Do you recomend disconnecting the hoses even if it is on the machine?
nice tip on llastic jug been wrapping with elect tape and hose clamp for decades, never thought of this one,who says old dogs cant learn?
, you don't need to loosen the hose on the chrome rod side but you have to loosen up the hose on the rear of the cylinder casing as to relieve the suctions to pull the rod , also it relieves pressure when you are trying to push it back in -------------- the chrome rod will come out with the casing still pinned to the machine , the bucket needs to be off the machine and the Bobtack plate laying flat or hanging if you don't want to crank it then you still should be able to accomplish this easy by releasing the Bobtack lever/wedges and pull the bucket away with a truck , another machine or use a 6 ft bar and scoot the bucket a couple of feet away from the machine , once you unpin the chrome rod the Bobtack will fall ------------
Just looked at it now and I think that will work-Thanks
Rod came out easy, just as you described, took it appart, cleaned it up and replaced all the seals/o-rings.... but there was one large o-ring left, no mention of it in the manual, could it be an extra in case a different piston used it? Also I can't really look inside the tube the way it is , could it go in there? If so there is no mention of it in the repair manual. How about cleaning the inside of the tube should I be concerned with that?
