Rear Tow Hitch for Bobcat

[Chalmers]

There are a few old threads on fabricating a REAR mounted tow hitch on a Bobcat. The idea is to tow an off-road trailer or other equipment. None of the threads gave specifics of a practical solution. so I wanted to offer my plans fr improvement by others with more knowledge and experience than I have. Gehl/Mustang/Yanmar have a central hole in the counterweight that is mounted under the engine door - so this is not a totally off the wall proposal. My T320 Bobcat hangs the counterweights off the sides at the rear from 3 holes. These 3 holes are to be the mounting points for the "drop" plates of the generic Service body hitch. I put drop plate in quotes because the plates will be horizontal, not vertical*as intended for truck use). An example of the hitch assy is Curt # 15903.or 15901 or Drawtite #41991. The plates will need to be extended from 16" to around 24" to clear the door. The square drawbar would be removable - so you can open the engine door. The drawbar would be cut down to length and secured with hitch pins. Seems simple/obvious - anyone done this or better? I have seen some Forestry cages for the rear but never any diy details.

 

[Tazza]

You're right, there are multiple points that can be used to mount a trailer hitch, even better if you can mount the style that you can remove easily as to not hit your shins or be in the way of the rear door.

 

[Chalmers]

You're right, there are multiple points that can be used to mount a trailer hitch, even better if you can mount the style that you can remove easily as to not hit your shins or be in the way of the rear door.

A receiver for a tow hitch was standard on the old ASV machines. The bigger ASV's were often used in Forestry. So there seems some validation of the concept. The big issue is where/how to attach the tow hitch. I still favor the counterweight bolt holes because they are accessible and the correct height. There are some likely looking alternative locations underneath and forward of the door. I suspect that would be unsatisfactory because it would scrape on the ground in abrupt gradient changes. Off to the scrap metal pile to cobble up a prototype.

 

[Tazza]

A receiver for a tow hitch was standard on the old ASV machines. The bigger ASV's were often used in Forestry. So there seems some validation of the concept. The big issue is where/how to attach the tow hitch. I still favor the counterweight bolt holes because they are accessible and the correct height. There are some likely looking alternative locations underneath and forward of the door. I suspect that would be unsatisfactory because it would scrape on the ground in abrupt gradient changes. Off to the scrap metal pile to cobble up a prototype.

I can see ground clearance being a potential issue, but surely it won't sit lower than the bottom of the chain case if the designers thought about it. I guess they feel it's mainly going to move dirt with a bucket, no need for a tow hitch.
There are times i have used mine to tow vehicles that were stuck, so a tow ball or tow point would be a benefit.

 

[Chalmers]

I can see ground clearance being a potential issue, but surely it won't sit lower than the bottom of the chain case if the designers thought about it. I guess they feel it's mainly going to move dirt with a bucket, no need for a tow hitch.
There are times i have used mine to tow vehicles that were stuck, so a tow ball or tow point would be a benefit.

Parts info: DRAWTITE 41991-16 is the complete assy. THE SIDE PLATES alone FOR DRAWTITE 41991-16 ARE Drawtite # 4196 SOLD SEPARATELY ON ETRAILER FOR $81/PAIR Be careful - the cross tube is only 60" wide.You may need to sleeve it/weld it if your machine is wider. Dimensions of holes in the Drawtite side plate are here: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-Parts/Draw-Tite/4916.html. Use some of these holes to mount the side plate in the empty counterwieght holes predrilled at the factory.Mark for new holes to be drilled. You need to have at least 5 bolts per plate to achieve sufficient(??) load capacity YEMV Just mount the plates horizontally(not as vertical drop plates like in a Service truck application) - pointing toward the rear of the Bobcat. Extend these side plates if necessary to clear the closed door.. Remove the drawbar when not in use or you want to open the engine access door.Use tractor hitch pins for this. I hope this helps.

 

[Chalmers]

Parts info: DRAWTITE 41991-16 is the complete assy. THE SIDE PLATES alone FOR DRAWTITE 41991-16 ARE Drawtite # 4196 SOLD SEPARATELY ON ETRAILER FOR $81/PAIR Be careful - the cross tube is only 60" wide.You may need to sleeve it/weld it if your machine is wider. Dimensions of holes in the Drawtite side plate are here: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-Parts/Draw-Tite/4916.html. Use some of these holes to mount the side plate in the empty counterwieght holes predrilled at the factory.Mark for new holes to be drilled. You need to have at least 5 bolts per plate to achieve sufficient(??) load capacity YEMV Just mount the plates horizontally(not as vertical drop plates like in a Service truck application) - pointing toward the rear of the Bobcat. Extend these side plates if necessary to clear the closed door.. Remove the drawbar when not in use or you want to open the engine access door.Use tractor hitch pins for this. I hope this helps.

I found a few photos of a rear mount attachment that could be modified to make a rear hitch for a Bobcat.Yes, rear, not front. http://www.stealthman.com/ts44m.htm Just scroll down to the bottom of his site that discusses a tree spade he made. He also made an attachment for a rear mount counterweight frame and that is what I am suggesting could be modified. Or search for TS44M Tree Spade. I hope this helps others who are interested in a rear mount tow hitch for their Bobcat.