Rear idler wear

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mchild

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Aug 19, 2012
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I am going to be replacing a couple of rollers. Checked my rear idler for bearing wear and it is good, but wonder about the amount of wear on the idler wheel itself. A new rear idler is about 11" in diameter while mine is about 10.5". How much wear is too much? Thanks for any guidance on this.
 

farmshop

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Mar 27, 2014
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We run ours till they start to look like a sprocket. After a while they wear through the hardened part and then don't stay round
 
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mchild

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Aug 19, 2012
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We run ours till they start to look like a sprocket. After a while they wear through the hardened part and then don't stay round
farmshop - do you do the same with the front idler? I asked the question about the wear as I have had the track come off on this one side. I am looking at all the wear points to see what has contributed to this. The front idler is a bit worn too so there is some cumulative affect between all the wear points. The tensioner is nearly at the travel limit, so I need to tighten things up somewhere. Thanks
 

farmshop

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Mar 27, 2014
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farmshop - do you do the same with the front idler? I asked the question about the wear as I have had the track come off on this one side. I am looking at all the wear points to see what has contributed to this. The front idler is a bit worn too so there is some cumulative affect between all the wear points. The tensioner is nearly at the travel limit, so I need to tighten things up somewhere. Thanks
We have done this on the front. How wore are the tracks? I would check the bearings in the rollers make sure they don't wobble. Then tighten the tracks and Jack it up and run it around and look for a bulge as it goes around the idler indicating a broken pad. Otherwise I would replace both idlers because it's cheaper then wrecking the track
 

lesgawlik

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Aug 5, 2010
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We have done this on the front. How wore are the tracks? I would check the bearings in the rollers make sure they don't wobble. Then tighten the tracks and Jack it up and run it around and look for a bulge as it goes around the idler indicating a broken pad. Otherwise I would replace both idlers because it's cheaper then wrecking the track
I'm following this thread with interest. Is there any alternative to replacing the track if you see a bulge indicating a broken pad?
 
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mchild

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Aug 19, 2012
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We have done this on the front. How wore are the tracks? I would check the bearings in the rollers make sure they don't wobble. Then tighten the tracks and Jack it up and run it around and look for a bulge as it goes around the idler indicating a broken pad. Otherwise I would replace both idlers because it's cheaper then wrecking the track
All of this is part of replacing the tracks. I want to do everything it needs at the same time. Thank you.
 

farmshop

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Mar 27, 2014
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All of this is part of replacing the tracks. I want to do everything it needs at the same time. Thank you.
Once the pad breaks nothing you can do as far as I know. We replace tracks without doing all the rollers. I would either flip the sprockets side for side or replace them and change the oil in the gearboxes.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

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Feb 2, 2012
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Once the pad breaks nothing you can do as far as I know. We replace tracks without doing all the rollers. I would either flip the sprockets side for side or replace them and change the oil in the gearboxes.
UNDERCARRIGE. things we have learned. A' track tension is paramount. and it cant just be eyeballed. unit has to be in the air. so minus a jack jackstands and wood blocks. which is great big pain and wont get done. back onto a stump use the bucket to lift unit off ground center roller 1/2 to 5/8 slack. (note this cant be seen whithout doing this) you might think you can but trust me try it.. B change drive motor hub oil every chance you get. even if it means pulling tracks. yea it sucks. C if you got tracks off rotate sprockets .(reason being 90% fwd work you will see they get cupped. gives a new wear surface and will extend track life...
 
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mchild

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Aug 19, 2012
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15
UNDERCARRIGE. things we have learned. A' track tension is paramount. and it cant just be eyeballed. unit has to be in the air. so minus a jack jackstands and wood blocks. which is great big pain and wont get done. back onto a stump use the bucket to lift unit off ground center roller 1/2 to 5/8 slack. (note this cant be seen whithout doing this) you might think you can but trust me try it.. B change drive motor hub oil every chance you get. even if it means pulling tracks. yea it sucks. C if you got tracks off rotate sprockets .(reason being 90% fwd work you will see they get cupped. gives a new wear surface and will extend track life...
7LBSSMALLIE - Thanks for your suggestions and comments.
 

bobbie-g

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Mar 15, 2004
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577
7LBSSMALLIE - Thanks for your suggestions and comments.
mchild, I have a never-used rear idler for a T-180. Brand new, but sold the machine. Email if you're interested RMGHORM at GMAIL dot COM. :) ---Bobbie-G
 

rackmaster

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Aug 13, 2015
Messages
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UNDERCARRIGE. things we have learned. A' track tension is paramount. and it cant just be eyeballed. unit has to be in the air. so minus a jack jackstands and wood blocks. which is great big pain and wont get done. back onto a stump use the bucket to lift unit off ground center roller 1/2 to 5/8 slack. (note this cant be seen whithout doing this) you might think you can but trust me try it.. B change drive motor hub oil every chance you get. even if it means pulling tracks. yea it sucks. C if you got tracks off rotate sprockets .(reason being 90% fwd work you will see they get cupped. gives a new wear surface and will extend track life...
thanks for the advise, Im needing a new set of tracks soo, have 1700 hrs on oem set, if I understand you correctly, it would be a good idea to swap the sprockets around? the hub oil has been changed several times.
 
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mchild

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Aug 19, 2012
Messages
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thanks for the advise, Im needing a new set of tracks soo, have 1700 hrs on oem set, if I understand you correctly, it would be a good idea to swap the sprockets around? the hub oil has been changed several times.
Yes, you are correct. Swap left for right. Will help some of the forward direction wear pattern. Sprockets can get 'set' on the hub a bit so you can re-install the track, loosen the sprocket hold nuts and drive the loader a short amount with a little forword and instant reverse to break them loose. Then loose the track from the front idler and lift it to work the sprocket out and the other one back in its place. Good luck.
 

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