I really appreciate the knowledge I've found on this board. I've got a early 198?'s L555, been a good machine. The problem I'm having is the other day it sounded like someone ran over a bucket of bolt with a lawn mower, hydraulic charge light came on, no travel, lift, and no tilt. Shut it down as fast as I could. Searched the forum and cleaned out the strainer, (new filters few months back), my fluid always turns milky, I use hydraulic/transmission fluid in it. After cleaning the strainer (clogged), it will now quietly raise the boom, but loads up the motor to point of killing it if you don't let off the lift; travel and tilt fine, doesn't load up. I had to remove one of my boom cylinders for repair, bad leak in seal. Didn't think this would cause the loading up problem, but not knowing I could be wrong.
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skidsteer.ca
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At a idle it may kill the motor but reved up it should not. You motor is running fine? because a bad fuel filter can drop your power considerably. But not to the point you mention unless you work the wheels hard at the same time. You should also check your hydraulic relief pressure to be sure it is not too high.
My 553 had the relief set at 3000 psi when it should have been 1600, the motor would not stall reved up but it sure groaned when you bottomed out the lift cylinders.
Ken
My 553 had the relief set at 3000 psi when it should have been 1600, the motor would not stall reved up but it sure groaned when you bottomed out the lift cylinders.
Ken
It kills it wide open. I'll check the fuel filter in the morning, hasn't been that long since I changed it. But I also know how quality control is on diesel fuel. The main thing I use it for is mixing and moving mulch and compost, so the possibility of dirt is high, cab is always full of wood chips. I'm going to drop off the boom cylinder in morning, I guess I can get the info. on where the relief pressure should be set. Should I consider the control valve as a possible problem area? Maybe by passing or something. Hydraulics are not a strong point with me.
skidsteer.ca
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The wheels seem to have their normal drive power ?
The only time the engine wants to stall is when lifting the boom? This is when the boom is rising, not when you hit the end of the cylinders?
Because the relief valve setting only comes into effect when the boom can no longer lift the load on it. or the cylinders hit the end. If the relief pressures are high it will draw extra power to open the relief valve, but the loader should also lift the back end off the ground easily as it will be over powered.
More likely would be a fuel system problem in the engine reducing the engines power, but then the wheels should oveload the engine easily too.
Ken
The travel and tilt are normal, no loading up. In fact I can lift up the front off the ground with just the tilt. Yes it loads up when lifting not just at end of cylinder stroke. Went to the dealership this morning to drop off cylinder for rebuild and described the problem. They said to look for a blockage in the boom hydraulics. I told them that when I started it fluid would pour out my boom cylinder, without activating the boom pedal, and when I did activate it the motor would load up and die. So I guess the next thing to do is to try and back flush the system and remove the solinoid valves and check them. Dump all the fluid, clean strainer and replace both filters. My fuel filter was replaced and didn't make a difference.
skidsteer.ca
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Wow, thats a new one then.
Incidently does it go down slow too?
If a steel hyd line was crimped off it should be slow both ways with the engine struggling. Even with a cripmed line though the relief should open before the engine would stall out, though you will hear it under load, which is normal.
"So I guess the next thing to do is to try and back flush the system and remove the solinoid valves and check them. Dump all the fluid, clean strainer and replace both filters"
What solinoid valves? is the boom not a manual spool valve connected to the foot pedals. Not sure what doing any of the above will acomplish as the pump seems to work just fine.
The cylinder is just in to be re packed?
Ken
http://www.partspring.com/catalog/product/view/id/197019/s/l555-18526/category/301/ This link shows where they are located on my machine. One for the boom and one for the tilt. It goes down slow also. The seal went out on cylinder. I'm still thinking it has something to do with the control valve, because it has in the past reversed itself on the foot pedal, where it would good down when in the up position and up in the down position. The controls would operate opposite what they should. As for dumping the fluid and filters go, the fluid is milky, and I just wanted to get everything cleaned out and start fresh. I've had both the drive chain master links break and had to replace them out in the field and we are in sandy loam. Know that can't be to good for the fluid. Doesn't seem to matter how careful you are sand gets into everything. I honestly think the dealership was stumped as where to look. So they just started giving me places to look.
For starters, milky oil is bad BAD as i'm sure you know. It means you are getting water into your system somewhere, you need to find where and fix it.
The one thing i can think it may be, is a anti-cavitation valve, your list circuit may have one, but i'm not sure it it does or where it would be located if it was fitted.
With that said, Even if you dead ended cylinders, it should not load the motor down so much that it wants to stall. You have relief valves in the system that limit the pressure and load the pump can put on the engine. If your engine is good, you should be able to let it run at idle and dead end a cylinder and it will bog down a little but it will not stall.
Now, lifting the front wheels off the ground by curling your bucket honestly, is nothing. There simply is no weight on the front, this is not a good test of the strength of your hydraulics. You need to use it to lift something heavy, like plow into a pile of dirt and try curling it back when the bucket is stuck in the dirt. This will really load it down, you should even be able to get your rear wheels off the ground with curling your tilt cylinder. I know i can do it with my old 743.
I have a L555 also, so I'm interested in any problem people have. One question about the link http://www.partspring.com/catalog/product/view/id/197019/s/l555-18526/category/301/ This is for a late 80's through the 90's L555, you said your's is an early 80's. If the serial number is lower than 750014 you need a different part number. (if it's a higher number..never mind) ..but if your skid steer is an early 80's the part number is
ELECTROMAGNET
Valve, Solenoid, See Figure 032
# 608550
1 Needed for Job
$274.70 Avail in 3-5 business days
From this site http://www.messicks.com/nhparts/8223.aspx
Don't know what happened, sorry about the tiny lettering. Here it is again.
http://www.partspring.com/catalog/product/view/id/197019/s/l555-18526/category/301/ This is for a late 80's through the 90's L555, you said your's is an early 80's. If the serial number is lower than 750014 you need a different part number. (if it's a higher number..never mind) ..but if your skid steer is an early 80's the part number is #608550
(The rest was readable )
Earthwerks Unlimited
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On my machine I had a similar thing happening (it's a 2005 LS185.b) which is a little different mechanically and electrically---turned out I let someone borrow it and they bumped the aux valve handle to the closed postion. So everytime I hit the aux. control pedal it would shut it down.
If this is the solenoid that is part of the safety lockout system, my dealer showed me how to overide it since they go bad often. Simply turn off the machine with all hydraulics down or not under gravity/weight pressure, remove the solenoid and also be sure there are no broken off parts of the plunger in the spool which will keep it from moving. Then install a standard pipe plug in the opening. I don't recall what he said about the wires at the solenoid but if I had to guess I'd connect them together to let the IP knwo there is soemthing there in the circuit--but I could be wrong.
He said to be sure to get it fixed before you leave the pipe plug in there all the time and forget about it.
I finally got the boom cylinder put back on, fresh fluid in, fired it up was operating the hydralics to work air out and the small pump split between the hose connector end and the mounting plate. Any ideas what could cause this?
I have seen this on a thomas. Appraently its due to internal wear. You can weld it, but it is a sign of wear and its not worth the time/money to repair. I guess it could be from not enough metal between the threaded hole and the end of the plate too. Or the fitting being too tight.
I was told you need to replace the pump if it cracks, relding is only a stop gap fix.
Good luck with it.
Thanks Tazza, I found several for 150.00 new and didn't want to put a new one on if there was something inside the transmission or final drives that may have caused it. Quite a relief all things considered.
I'm not saying its not another issue, but its not un-common as i have asked another friend in the hydraulics game, he has seen it a few times as well.
Thats a great price for another pump! The quote i got was about $950..... Different machine though.
