Picked up the 1830 today (not running)

Iallwork

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Joined
Jul 9, 2016
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First off let me thank you guys for your advice and sorry for my impatience and borderline disrespect. I picked up the 1830 today. The wheels turn freely, so someone (may have) bleed the fluid to move it. The motor turns over, but was froze at first. I don't think it is the original motor, so figuring out what motor is in there is the next challenge.
 
Looks like it could be (pretty sure) a ford 1.6. This is good I hope.
The ford 1.6 engines were pretty popular.
Have you gotten the engine running? or just turning?
If it was locked up, it may be a good idea to pull it down to make sure the rings are not stuck.
 
The ford 1.6 engines were pretty popular.
Have you gotten the engine running? or just turning?
If it was locked up, it may be a good idea to pull it down to make sure the rings are not stuck.
Not running yet. It turns over but not easily. was low on oil. no filter on the engine. Where do I check the hydraulic fluid? I don't want to fire the engine up til i'm sure there is oil in the hydraulic pump. can I use universal hydraulic fluid. I found one fitting for the bucket broke off. fixed that. I blew so compressed air into the cylinder to see if it blew out the crankcase. I don't think there are any holes through the pistons. Will do a compression test soon as I check the hydraulic fluid and get a battery in it and oil filter and fix the cables. Thinking about pulling the head off. Will I have to bleed the air from the system or will it work its way out?
 
Not running yet. It turns over but not easily. was low on oil. no filter on the engine. Where do I check the hydraulic fluid? I don't want to fire the engine up til i'm sure there is oil in the hydraulic pump. can I use universal hydraulic fluid. I found one fitting for the bucket broke off. fixed that. I blew so compressed air into the cylinder to see if it blew out the crankcase. I don't think there are any holes through the pistons. Will do a compression test soon as I check the hydraulic fluid and get a battery in it and oil filter and fix the cables. Thinking about pulling the head off. Will I have to bleed the air from the system or will it work its way out?
Sorry, not sure where the oil tank is, if it's hydrostatic drive, you will want thicker oil, like engine oil weight.
A compression test is a good idea. The resistance in the engine could be the fact it has a pump attached, making it tighter than without.
 
Sorry, not sure where the oil tank is, if it's hydrostatic drive, you will want thicker oil, like engine oil weight.
A compression test is a good idea. The resistance in the engine could be the fact it has a pump attached, making it tighter than without.
I was wondering about the pump making it hard to turnover. Could I disconnect the drive chain at the master link.
 
from looking up parts I am pretty sure it's hydrostatic
Check the hydraulic oil on the rear of the right lift tower. There should be a plug to remove. Fill it from the filler hole on the left tower, till it runs out the fill plug. Lift the wheels off the ground and make sure there is some sort of resistance in the hydro's. Either someone has pulled it around till it forced all the oil out of the motors, or the chains are off. You can pull the drain plug on the right reservoir and check for metal in it. All of the case drains go there, so if something self destructed(drive pump,motor) it will have lots of metal on the bottom of the right reservoir.
The chain coupler from the factory doesnt have a master link. If it does, you can remove it and the chain. If not, the chain must be cut and a replacement installed.
The ford 1.6 is better power wise compared to the OE continental, but parts are getting hard to find for them.
 
Check the hydraulic oil on the rear of the right lift tower. There should be a plug to remove. Fill it from the filler hole on the left tower, till it runs out the fill plug. Lift the wheels off the ground and make sure there is some sort of resistance in the hydro's. Either someone has pulled it around till it forced all the oil out of the motors, or the chains are off. You can pull the drain plug on the right reservoir and check for metal in it. All of the case drains go there, so if something self destructed(drive pump,motor) it will have lots of metal on the bottom of the right reservoir.
The chain coupler from the factory doesnt have a master link. If it does, you can remove it and the chain. If not, the chain must be cut and a replacement installed.
The ford 1.6 is better power wise compared to the OE continental, but parts are getting hard to find for them.
Thanks hotrod. is there a different motor for a replacement? just in case this one is beyond repair. Can use sae 30 motor oil for the hydraulic fluid.
 
Thanks hotrod. is there a different motor for a replacement? just in case this one is beyond repair. Can use sae 30 motor oil for the hydraulic fluid.
Unless the 1830s are different than the 1835Bs the specced hydraulic fluid is 10W-40 engine oil + Case's HTO additive. The 400 series Cases spec 10W-30 engine oil + HTO, and I now use that in the 1835Bs also as I believe there can be cavitation problems with the double pump if 10W-40 is used in extreme cold weather.
 
Unless the 1830s are different than the 1835Bs the specced hydraulic fluid is 10W-40 engine oil + Case's HTO additive. The 400 series Cases spec 10W-30 engine oil + HTO, and I now use that in the 1835Bs also as I believe there can be cavitation problems with the double pump if 10W-40 is used in extreme cold weather.
thanks gearclash, It gets pretty cold here.
 
thanks gearclash, It gets pretty cold here.
Drained the right side. Water came out probably a gallon or less then oil. I found a very small amount of metal. very small amount. I'm going to pull the left side plug next. The fluid looked terrible. Threw it out. Does the hydraulic pump run off this oil or is there a separate tank from the drive chains. Are the drive chain tanks connected?
 
Drained the right side. Water came out probably a gallon or less then oil. I found a very small amount of metal. very small amount. I'm going to pull the left side plug next. The fluid looked terrible. Threw it out. Does the hydraulic pump run off this oil or is there a separate tank from the drive chains. Are the drive chain tanks connected?
If the engine is'nt any good, I would swap a diesel into it. Kubota 2203 is what I was planning for mine until I sold it. It is no secret that the 1830's where under powered. All agree another 15 hp would be perfect. If you have something else in mind of simular power, it'll probably work. My opinion is that diesels are just better suited for the work the skids do. The work for the swap is usually the same regardless of what you stuff in the hole. Why not make it more appealing if you need to sell it? Popular engine= easy to find parts.
A very small amount of metal is probably just normal wear. The water may be a bigger concern(rusty tank) When my 1830 lost a drive pump, I found probably a quarter cup of Chunks in the right tower. Your probably OK. All of the hydraulic returns run into the right tower, all of the pump pick-up's are in the left tower. It is very rare that metal makes it back to the pumps for this reason. A very good design I might add. The chain case is seperate from the hydro's. That's another 5 gallons of bulk oil. In the future, you can use you hydro oil you remove on a service and put it in the chain case. The chain case is accessed by raising the lift arms and removing the covers on top of the chain cases. Pretty easy if the machine is running to raise the arm's. Not so much if it is'nt. You can either unbolt the lift cylinders and lift the arms, or lift the arm's while someone holds the lever's open so the hydro's arent locked. Use the lift arm lock when it is up. The drive chain can be found at any farm supply store, so don't freak out if it needs all of them.
No, the chain cases arent connected.
 
If the engine is'nt any good, I would swap a diesel into it. Kubota 2203 is what I was planning for mine until I sold it. It is no secret that the 1830's where under powered. All agree another 15 hp would be perfect. If you have something else in mind of simular power, it'll probably work. My opinion is that diesels are just better suited for the work the skids do. The work for the swap is usually the same regardless of what you stuff in the hole. Why not make it more appealing if you need to sell it? Popular engine= easy to find parts.
A very small amount of metal is probably just normal wear. The water may be a bigger concern(rusty tank) When my 1830 lost a drive pump, I found probably a quarter cup of Chunks in the right tower. Your probably OK. All of the hydraulic returns run into the right tower, all of the pump pick-up's are in the left tower. It is very rare that metal makes it back to the pumps for this reason. A very good design I might add. The chain case is seperate from the hydro's. That's another 5 gallons of bulk oil. In the future, you can use you hydro oil you remove on a service and put it in the chain case. The chain case is accessed by raising the lift arms and removing the covers on top of the chain cases. Pretty easy if the machine is running to raise the arm's. Not so much if it is'nt. You can either unbolt the lift cylinders and lift the arms, or lift the arm's while someone holds the lever's open so the hydro's arent locked. Use the lift arm lock when it is up. The drive chain can be found at any farm supply store, so don't freak out if it needs all of them.
No, the chain cases arent connected.
BTw, I ran case Hytran-ultra in mine. Allready had the HTO. You do not want to put that in there just to see if it work's though. The HTO additive is kinda pricey, so if your just filling to wee if it works, save the bottle of HTO and make sure it works first. 30w oil is probably a little thick for hydro oil. 5w30+ HTO for a cold climate is what I would run. 10w30 for warmer weather.
 
If the engine is'nt any good, I would swap a diesel into it. Kubota 2203 is what I was planning for mine until I sold it. It is no secret that the 1830's where under powered. All agree another 15 hp would be perfect. If you have something else in mind of simular power, it'll probably work. My opinion is that diesels are just better suited for the work the skids do. The work for the swap is usually the same regardless of what you stuff in the hole. Why not make it more appealing if you need to sell it? Popular engine= easy to find parts.
A very small amount of metal is probably just normal wear. The water may be a bigger concern(rusty tank) When my 1830 lost a drive pump, I found probably a quarter cup of Chunks in the right tower. Your probably OK. All of the hydraulic returns run into the right tower, all of the pump pick-up's are in the left tower. It is very rare that metal makes it back to the pumps for this reason. A very good design I might add. The chain case is seperate from the hydro's. That's another 5 gallons of bulk oil. In the future, you can use you hydro oil you remove on a service and put it in the chain case. The chain case is accessed by raising the lift arms and removing the covers on top of the chain cases. Pretty easy if the machine is running to raise the arm's. Not so much if it is'nt. You can either unbolt the lift cylinders and lift the arms, or lift the arm's while someone holds the lever's open so the hydro's arent locked. Use the lift arm lock when it is up. The drive chain can be found at any farm supply store, so don't freak out if it needs all of them.
No, the chain cases arent connected.
left side had water in it also. The guy i bought it from said one drive motor was replaced. Not much metal, so it could be from that. the tires turn together without much slop, so maybe the chains are good (left is tighter than the right). Can i check the drive chain oil without raising the arms and pulling the covers. I allready have them raised about 6 inches and blocked up with 4x4 chunks of wood. ya had to use a floor jack to get them up.
 
left side had water in it also. The guy i bought it from said one drive motor was replaced. Not much metal, so it could be from that. the tires turn together without much slop, so maybe the chains are good (left is tighter than the right). Can i check the drive chain oil without raising the arms and pulling the covers. I allready have them raised about 6 inches and blocked up with 4x4 chunks of wood. ya had to use a floor jack to get them up.
I "think" there is a fill plug for the chain case's, but I can't remember. I gave my service manual to the new owner.
But, I know there is a drain plug for them. If you crack the drain plug and water comes out, your changing chain case oil as well.
If you haven't found the Case parts website yet, it is a good resource. You can usually find the location of such things as drain plugs by looking at part's diagrams. I know when I had my 1830, thats how a found all the drain plugs, and everything else I was looking for.
 
I "think" there is a fill plug for the chain case's, but I can't remember. I gave my service manual to the new owner.
But, I know there is a drain plug for them. If you crack the drain plug and water comes out, your changing chain case oil as well.
If you haven't found the Case parts website yet, it is a good resource. You can usually find the location of such things as drain plugs by looking at part's diagrams. I know when I had my 1830, thats how a found all the drain plugs, and everything else I was looking for.
The web site for parts i found is Messick's. It has lots of parts and some diagrams but I don't know if they show the drain plugs. would they be on the bottom or sides. Thanks for the help. i like the diesel idea.
 
I "think" there is a fill plug for the chain case's, but I can't remember. I gave my service manual to the new owner.
But, I know there is a drain plug for them. If you crack the drain plug and water comes out, your changing chain case oil as well.
If you haven't found the Case parts website yet, it is a good resource. You can usually find the location of such things as drain plugs by looking at part's diagrams. I know when I had my 1830, thats how a found all the drain plugs, and everything else I was looking for.
When you get to the point on operation, the drive chains can be adjusted externally by loosening the hub's on the chain case and tightening the adjuster. If they are at the limit of the adjuster, drive chain service is needed.
 
When you get to the point on operation, the drive chains can be adjusted externally by loosening the hub's on the chain case and tightening the adjuster. If they are at the limit of the adjuster, drive chain service is needed.
the back rims are different from the front ones, they stick out a little farther than the front. Did they come like that?
 

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