Picked up the 1830 today (not running)

[Hotrod1830]

When you get to the point on operation, the drive chains can be adjusted externally by loosening the hub's on the chain case and tightening the adjuster. If they are at the limit of the adjuster, drive chain service is needed.

Just looked at the parts diagram. It is considerably smaller/abbreviated than when I had my 1830. The detailed picture of the chain case is gone, among other things.

 

[Hotrod1830]

Just looked at the parts diagram. It is considerably smaller/abbreviated than when I had my 1830. The detailed picture of the chain case is gone, among other things.

No, the wheels should be the same front and rear.

 

[Hotrod1830]

No, the wheels should be the same front and rear.

Drain plug is on the bottom.

 

[Iallwork]

Drain plug is on the bottom.

Ok on the drain plug. I see two bolts that could be drains. If I put the same rims on the same side no one would notice(ha ha).

 

[Hotrod1830]

Ok on the drain plug. I see two bolts that could be drains. If I put the same rims on the same side no one would notice(ha ha).

Let's see some picture's of this project?
As long as the tires are the same size, you can move the wheels around so nobody else notices the wheel mismatch. If the tires are different size, that problem will need to be corrected.

 

[Iallwork]

Let's see some picture's of this project?
As long as the tires are the same size, you can move the wheels around so nobody else notices the wheel mismatch. If the tires are different size, that problem will need to be corrected.

OK pretty sure what I drained was the chain cases. Water can probably get in there easier than in the hydro tanks. i am starting to understand this machine a little. Will try to post some pictures soon. I stuck a wire down the filler tube for the hydraulic tank, after I added some oi,l and I can see there is some oil in there. I see the large plugs on each tube but they are so tight I can't get them loose without some different tools. looks like 3/4" square. I think I know how full it is suppose to be. I just put a battery in and fixed the terminals. It has a momentary contact switch that is froze up so I will have to cross some wires to see if it will turn over. It's getting late though. so I may wait to turn it over.

 

[Gearclash]

OK pretty sure what I drained was the chain cases. Water can probably get in there easier than in the hydro tanks. i am starting to understand this machine a little. Will try to post some pictures soon. I stuck a wire down the filler tube for the hydraulic tank, after I added some oi,l and I can see there is some oil in there. I see the large plugs on each tube but they are so tight I can't get them loose without some different tools. looks like 3/4" square. I think I know how full it is suppose to be. I just put a battery in and fixed the terminals. It has a momentary contact switch that is froze up so I will have to cross some wires to see if it will turn over. It's getting late though. so I may wait to turn it over.

The chain cases on those machines are notorious for getting water in them. The chain cases are refilled through the inspection covers. The inspection covers are where the water tends to enter the cases. Metal fragments could be chain fragments from chain failures, tips of the sprockets, or remains of failed wheel bearings. There are most likely four drain plugs on the belly pan of the skid steer, the rear most two will be fuel tank drains, the next two forward will be chain case drains. The hydraulic oil drains will be the 3/4" square drive plugs you saw at the rear of the arm towers. The 1835Bs have a sight glass in the tube connecting the arm towers. The sight glass should be full of oil. If there is a difference in the offset of the rims it is probable that someone replaced some rims. I have not found an after market rim with the same off set as oem.

 

[Iallwork]

The chain cases on those machines are notorious for getting water in them. The chain cases are refilled through the inspection covers. The inspection covers are where the water tends to enter the cases. Metal fragments could be chain fragments from chain failures, tips of the sprockets, or remains of failed wheel bearings. There are most likely four drain plugs on the belly pan of the skid steer, the rear most two will be fuel tank drains, the next two forward will be chain case drains. The hydraulic oil drains will be the 3/4" square drive plugs you saw at the rear of the arm towers. The 1835Bs have a sight glass in the tube connecting the arm towers. The sight glass should be full of oil. If there is a difference in the offset of the rims it is probable that someone replaced some rims. I have not found an after market rim with the same off set as oem.

thanks gearclash. Do I have to take the cover off, or is there a plug. If the same rims on the same side it would make up for the bucket being welded on a little of center. Not done by me.

 

[Iallwork]

thanks gearclash. Do I have to take the cover off, or is there a plug. If the same rims on the same side it would make up for the bucket being welded on a little of center. Not done by me.

I should have proof read that before i posted it.

 

[Gearclash]

I should have proof read that before i posted it.

Remove the inspections covers to refill the chain cases. Just take some effort to reseal them good because that is where the bulk of the water gets in. Water is not a good lubricant. Apparently there is not a sightglass for the hydraulic reservoir on the 1830, it looks like there is an upper level plug instead. I have not worked with the 1830, only the 1835B, and I see on Caseparts that there are some significant differences.

 

[Iallwork]

Remove the inspections covers to refill the chain cases. Just take some effort to reseal them good because that is where the bulk of the water gets in. Water is not a good lubricant. Apparently there is not a sightglass for the hydraulic reservoir on the 1830, it looks like there is an upper level plug instead. I have not worked with the 1830, only the 1835B, and I see on Caseparts that there are some significant differences.

yes the upper level plug on the right side is what i see to check the oil level. I do notice that the 3/4" plugs leak oil out. So I am going to put some good pipe thread tape on them. Purchased a 3/4" square adapter and got them loose. I will probably take the right side plug out and try to clean out the res. to see if there is metal inside. Then seal up that plug with tape. The left side is leaking oil out the plug. I already added 4 quarts to it. I think I will wait on that side till i get the motor running and see if the hydraulics work. If the hydraulics work I will drain the fluid and put it in the chain cases. I found a rebate on 10w-30 and purchased 4 gallons. This should be good enough to replace most of the hydraulic fluid I hope. Still need to figure a radiator because it is missing. I am going to try my mercury villager radiator just for temporary.

 

[Iallwork]

yes the upper level plug on the right side is what i see to check the oil level. I do notice that the 3/4" plugs leak oil out. So I am going to put some good pipe thread tape on them. Purchased a 3/4" square adapter and got them loose. I will probably take the right side plug out and try to clean out the res. to see if there is metal inside. Then seal up that plug with tape. The left side is leaking oil out the plug. I already added 4 quarts to it. I think I will wait on that side till i get the motor running and see if the hydraulics work. If the hydraulics work I will drain the fluid and put it in the chain cases. I found a rebate on 10w-30 and purchased 4 gallons. This should be good enough to replace most of the hydraulic fluid I hope. Still need to figure a radiator because it is missing. I am going to try my mercury villager radiator just for temporary.

Thanks for the help everyone. Just realized today that I owned a 773 for ten years and knew nothing about it. I'm much happier now, even though I sold that machine (bummer). Sometimes hard times makes you wiser. I was going to say inteligent but I don't know how to spell the word.

 

[Hotrod1830]

Thanks for the help everyone. Just realized today that I owned a 773 for ten years and knew nothing about it. I'm much happier now, even though I sold that machine (bummer). Sometimes hard times makes you wiser. I was going to say inteligent but I don't know how to spell the word.

If it where me, I would'nt even waste the time on a radiator until I knew it ran. You can buy several feet of universal radiator hose( or old radiator hoses with a large union) and loop the upper and lower outlets. Leave the upper connection off, and fill it with water. Get as much as you can into it. Tighten the clamps, and you can run it for a good 3-5 minutes without worry of it getting hot. You likely wont have to run it that long to know the engine and hydro's work.

 

[Iallwork]

If it where me, I would'nt even waste the time on a radiator until I knew it ran. You can buy several feet of universal radiator hose( or old radiator hoses with a large union) and loop the upper and lower outlets. Leave the upper connection off, and fill it with water. Get as much as you can into it. Tighten the clamps, and you can run it for a good 3-5 minutes without worry of it getting hot. You likely wont have to run it that long to know the engine and hydro's work.

Ok, will do that thanks. Still have to hook up the alt , coil and possibly the hoof gov or what ever I need to get a belt on. I may see if it fires before I get the belt on.

 

[Iallwork]

Ok, will do that thanks. Still have to hook up the alt , coil and possibly the hoof gov or what ever I need to get a belt on. I may see if it fires before I get the belt on.

Need a few more days before I can get to the case, really busy with work right now.

 

[Hotrod1830]

Need a few more days before I can get to the case, really busy with work right now.

Thank's for the the update. Around here, We understand life take's priority over our hobby(or job for some on here). We don't get mad if someone doesnt update their thread every day/week. Take your time..... Update when you can.
I have went weeks or months before checking back on a thread.

 

[Iallwork]

Thank's for the the update. Around here, We understand life take's priority over our hobby(or job for some on here). We don't get mad if someone doesnt update their thread every day/week. Take your time..... Update when you can.
I have went weeks or months before checking back on a thread.

Ok , Not much time , took the right side tower plug out and cleaned the tank. a little bit of water in there , not much, probably condensation. sealed it with pink. PFT, it's what i had. very little metal, very little. drained the left side. This is oil I already put in (1 gallon). basically no metal that can be seen without looking really hard. A little water. Sealed the plug. OK, now I'm looking at the starter. battery is charged. decide to take the starter out. It doesn't turn over. hook up jumper cables. and a lead to the solnoid. Starter works. one of the wires was not connected to the solenoid. Ran out of time. The hydraulics might be ok? I put 4 gallons of 10w-30 in the tank.

 

[Hotrod1830]

Ok , Not much time , took the right side tower plug out and cleaned the tank. a little bit of water in there , not much, probably condensation. sealed it with pink. PFT, it's what i had. very little metal, very little. drained the left side. This is oil I already put in (1 gallon). basically no metal that can be seen without looking really hard. A little water. Sealed the plug. OK, now I'm looking at the starter. battery is charged. decide to take the starter out. It doesn't turn over. hook up jumper cables. and a lead to the solnoid. Starter works. one of the wires was not connected to the solenoid. Ran out of time. The hydraulics might be ok? I put 4 gallons of 10w-30 in the tank.

Without any big chunks in the tanks, the hydros may be OK. Only way to know for sure is get it started and try them out. The drive motors should respond right away without much lag. The bucket hydraulics probably have air in them and will be lazy and make noise for a bit before all the air is out.
A word of wisdom on the 1830's, The hydrostatic system on these is VERY noisey. Dont chase your tail trying to find the cause of it making a ton of noise when you turn or are trying to dig. From what I understand, it wasnt until later models they incorporated quieter designed pumps.
If it is quiet driving in a straight line, you are fine.

 

[Iallwork]

Without any big chunks in the tanks, the hydros may be OK. Only way to know for sure is get it started and try them out. The drive motors should respond right away without much lag. The bucket hydraulics probably have air in them and will be lazy and make noise for a bit before all the air is out.
A word of wisdom on the 1830's, The hydrostatic system on these is VERY noisey. Dont chase your tail trying to find the cause of it making a ton of noise when you turn or are trying to dig. From what I understand, it wasnt until later models they incorporated quieter designed pumps.
If it is quiet driving in a straight line, you are fine.

update. power to the starter. plugs out. lots of oil soaking the cylinders for days (week maybe more I don't know anymore). Motor turns over. Can hear the hydraulic fluid going in to the return tank. Time for a compression test. #1 less than 90. #2 #3 #4 around 90. Turn it over more. The more it turns the better it turns. Oil must be getting around. Filled the oil filter to begin with. More oil in the cylinders. Let's try the wheel hydraulics just from cranking it. Wheels turn. First forward then back. I can no longer turn the wheels by hand. At least not much. The air must be getting worked out. Now let's try the bucket. I wire it off. yes bucket works.Lift arms. Yes they work and hold pressure.Compression test again. # 1, 135 , # 2, 120 #3, 120, #4, 135. Problem #1 has a loud chirp only when I compression test it. Maybe a dry rod bearing. I am not going to start it unless that stops. does not do the noise when the tester is not screwed in the plug hole. more hydraulic tests. motor been turned over alot now. compression test. no noise on the #1 cylinder now. More tests later. maybe tomorrow. I think the hydros may be good?

 

[Iallwork]

update. power to the starter. plugs out. lots of oil soaking the cylinders for days (week maybe more I don't know anymore). Motor turns over. Can hear the hydraulic fluid going in to the return tank. Time for a compression test. #1 less than 90. #2 #3 #4 around 90. Turn it over more. The more it turns the better it turns. Oil must be getting around. Filled the oil filter to begin with. More oil in the cylinders. Let's try the wheel hydraulics just from cranking it. Wheels turn. First forward then back. I can no longer turn the wheels by hand. At least not much. The air must be getting worked out. Now let's try the bucket. I wire it off. yes bucket works.Lift arms. Yes they work and hold pressure.Compression test again. # 1, 135 , # 2, 120 #3, 120, #4, 135. Problem #1 has a loud chirp only when I compression test it. Maybe a dry rod bearing. I am not going to start it unless that stops. does not do the noise when the tester is not screwed in the plug hole. more hydraulic tests. motor been turned over alot now. compression test. no noise on the #1 cylinder now. More tests later. maybe tomorrow. I think the hydros may be good?

Ran the motor today for a few seconds at a time. It seems to run nice. still need to rig up some coolant because it doesn't have the radiator. Still have to get fuel pumping to the carb. I am pretty sure the motor is around 1971 - 1974. after that there are not specs for points gap or dwell so I think that's when ford switched to electronic ignition. From now on I will order parts for a 71 pinto or maybe a mustang ll. Before I was telling the parts store 78 fiesta. That wasn't working so well. The HP rating for a 71 pinto was 75 hp. That should be plenty. Please correct me if any of my info is wrong. Thanks for all the help so far.