Owatonna Mustang 1700 Restore/repair project

[coppercreekcuts]

Hello all,

I picked up an Owatonna Mustang 1700 that I am documenting the repair/restore process on. Please comment any advice or tips as you see fit!

Part one of the project

- Brad

 

[FungusAmongUs]

Great video. I'd say you got a good deal, I payed 3k for my 1200a and yours looks to be in better shape and it's a diesel.

 

[coppercreekcuts]

Great video. I'd say you got a good deal, I payed 3k for my 1200a and yours looks to be in better shape and it's a diesel.

Thank you! I have been looking for skids for a long time on Facebook marketplace and IronPlanet auction site and I've never seen one so cheap, but then to also have the possibility of running with relatively little work was a no brainer for me to pull the trigger!

 

[T-rustyfix]

How’s the progress on the 1700? I get my hoses custom made as I wait at my local NAPA. Prices aren’t bad either.

 

[coppercreekcuts]

How's the progress on the 1700? I get my hoses custom made as I wait at my local NAPA. Prices aren't bad either.

Running into some electrical issues that have me scratching my head. I don't know much so muddling through it. Once I can figure it out the next episode should be done.

 

[T-rustyfix]

Fun project if it’s not too cold! I had to re-do my entire electrical system last year on my 1200. Not sure if I can help, but lemme know if you have a specific question.

 

[GettysburgBillH]

Great video. I'd say you got a good deal, I payed 3k for my 1200a and yours looks to be in better shape and it's a diesel.

is there any place you can buy or have rebuilt the clutch plates for the owatonna 1700 mustang skid steer. I bought one but the clutch plates slip so it is basically worthless.

 

[jonesallu]

is there any place you can buy or have rebuilt the clutch plates for the owatonna 1700 mustang skid steer. I bought one but the clutch plates slip so it is basically worthless.

First, have you tried to adjust the clutches? If not, that may solve it for you. If it doesn't, two places sell the steel plates and and friction plates. The one I'm familiar with is: Morris Inc.
203 S Jackson St., Aberdeen, SD 57401, 605-290-1582. Get ready for your wallet to scream, they run about $600 PER clutch pack.

Al Jones
1700

 

[Sapientoni]

I'm pretty sure those discs are from some kind of automatic transmission. Maybe go by an automatic transmission shop and look at one that's disassembled. I always find extra discs in every transmission kit I ever rebuilt. They should also have some of them laying about. Next time I'm in NC I will look at the ones I have saved and see what their dimensions are. If you take some measurements and maybe check the number of teeth on the discs we can do a big service to everybody. The 1700 I have has never needed discs and always drove great. It uses atf fluid and because of hydraulic leaks I was always replenishing that, LOL! The Bobcat 110 I acquired had some idiot put 90 wt gear oil in it and barely moved after the oil got warm. Specs were for 10 wt, I think. I got new discs and put in from Bobcat, but I don't think they were that expensive. I know the assembly looked similar to what little I've seen of the 1700.

 

[T-rustyfix]

It’s worth the time to take the clutch packs apart, sort them out, measure them with calipers and build a good one from all the parts. You might end up only needing to buy one pack instead of 4.

 

[T-rustyfix]

These are special. I’ve looked, called, and measured the subject to exhaustion. I got blessed and found a donor machine at a scrapyard & took 3 clutch packs. They actually had brass frictions. I mixed and matched with what I had to create 4 good ones. I think it might be possible to send them out to get new frictions put on the clutch steel, but I’m not sure where to send them. Make sure your hydraulic pressure is good. The fastest way to burn up the clutches is to run out of hydraulic fluid. Also be careful how long you drive uphill. The pickup for the fluid is in the front and you won’t know you’ve run out of fluid because it’s all at the back of the reservoir and the engine is still turning the drive, but the transmission fluid is not cooling them down through the supply from the center pins and the clutches are burning. If you can move the bucket with the pedals, the pressure is good. I just make sure and check by tapping the foot pedals every once in awhile whenever I’m going up a steep incline.

 

[Sapientoni]

You know, of course, the only time they should be slipping is when you first engage them or as you release. If the levers aren't adjusted correctly, then they are slipping. When I first got my machine, I would dig dirt up to a vertical bank and the governor would kick in and the wheels kept digging, no clutch slippage that I was aware. They are also slipping a little while idling, but with proper oil type they should not be wearing. I have never replaced the clutches in my 1970 ish 1700 and I worked it pretty hard digging stumps for almost a year. I may have adjusted them once.

On the other hand, the Bobcat 610 would barely drive down hill with the 90 wt. gear oil some moron put in it. Maybe he was trying to reduce the leaking lift cylinders, etc.

Keep on skidding!

 

[T-rustyfix]

The wheels will keep digging because the drive power comes through the rubber belt. You won’t notice clutch slippage until it’s too late or significant wear in the dry, overheated clutches has occurred. This is really only a danger on a long stretch of hill climbing with forward and back movement. The best way to climb a steep hill is backwards anyway, because you can use the bucket as a safety if you slip or tip.

 

[rts68]

Just noticed a few hundred NOS Owatonna mustang parts on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285798709921