Newbie. Looking at a series 700 Bobcat.

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HanSolo

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
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Greetings gentlemen. I'm certainly not new to other forums but definitely new to this one. I'm a property owner (5 acres) and seriously considering purchasing a used skid steer loader for driveway maintenance, landscaping, stacking, etc. Many years ago when I was a younger man, I could operate a Bobcat probably as good as anyone. I learned on a old Melrose with clutches and later did a lot time on Bobcat 753 and Case 1845. As the years have gone by, I've never lost those skills. Occasionally renting local machines for property improvements. Now I'm feeling nostalgic for those machines and I've developed some decent mechanical skills working on classic sports cars (but that's a whole 'nother hobby). My price point for something like this is going to be low ($1000 - $2500) so whatever I get will need some work. I've seen some older but fully functional Bobcats for $4000 and I figure that's where I'll end up after repairing a less expensive machine. But that cost will be spread out and I'll gain some more skills and knowledge working on it. So here's the first one I'm going to look at... http://nashville.craigslist.org/grd/3248943067.html
Please take a look at the ad and let me know your impressions. I'll take advise and opinions on what may be wrong, what needs to be done and any inherent problems with this make and model. Thank you!
 
Looks like an old clutch driven machine.
You really need to be careful too, if it needs an engine, your cost to get it going again will jump and it will jump a lot. Do your home work for worst case scenario.
 
Looks like an old clutch driven machine.
You really need to be careful too, if it needs an engine, your cost to get it going again will jump and it will jump a lot. Do your home work for worst case scenario.
Looks like a 700 or so, all 700 series was hydro. My two cents, save a some money and fine a 753. F series still have pretty basic electric system and are just so much nicer. Even a 743 would be a big plus over anything older. I am one of the few on here with little love for the older machines and have been chasized for it. Anything you look at buying, take it to a dealer and have it inspected first, that way you know what you are getting into. I see way to many guys buy something, then fine out it needs big bucks just to be useful.
 
Looks like a 700 or so, all 700 series was hydro. My two cents, save a some money and fine a 753. F series still have pretty basic electric system and are just so much nicer. Even a 743 would be a big plus over anything older. I am one of the few on here with little love for the older machines and have been chasized for it. Anything you look at buying, take it to a dealer and have it inspected first, that way you know what you are getting into. I see way to many guys buy something, then fine out it needs big bucks just to be useful.
I'll give you my $0.02. I own both old chain driven Melroe Bobcats (M500 and M610) as well as a slightly newer Bobcat hydrostatic model (630). If you are looking for power I would purchase a hydrostatic model hands down. If you are looking for something a little more forgiving controls wise and potentially more collectible, then a chain drive model may work for you.
As said before, if you are truly looking for a 700 series then I believe they are all hydrostatic models. The one you posted from Craigslist is likely an early 1970s model and appears to be a M-700 but not positive on that. They were sort of the cross breed with the "old" body style but hydrostatic drive.the one you are looking at seems to have something up with the front right tire, and carb work is usually a red flag to me but all the gas models seem to have clogged carbs. The main thing I would find out is parts availability- usually that is good with Bobcat but being a cross breed it may not be as readily available as others and usually the engines have the fewest available parts though they can be found elsewhere. Auxillary hydraulics were optional on some of these early machines so you may want to check that. Also make sure the Bobtach works as the buckets on these older machines are sometimes rusted on.
If I were to consider a 700 series I may go a little newer as suggested- at least into the 730 series.
You can get a feel for the different models and years available from the Bobcat spec page:
http://www.bobcat.com/historical_specs/skid_steer/overview
 
I'll give you my $0.02. I own both old chain driven Melroe Bobcats (M500 and M610) as well as a slightly newer Bobcat hydrostatic model (630). If you are looking for power I would purchase a hydrostatic model hands down. If you are looking for something a little more forgiving controls wise and potentially more collectible, then a chain drive model may work for you.
As said before, if you are truly looking for a 700 series then I believe they are all hydrostatic models. The one you posted from Craigslist is likely an early 1970s model and appears to be a M-700 but not positive on that. They were sort of the cross breed with the "old" body style but hydrostatic drive.the one you are looking at seems to have something up with the front right tire, and carb work is usually a red flag to me but all the gas models seem to have clogged carbs. The main thing I would find out is parts availability- usually that is good with Bobcat but being a cross breed it may not be as readily available as others and usually the engines have the fewest available parts though they can be found elsewhere. Auxillary hydraulics were optional on some of these early machines so you may want to check that. Also make sure the Bobtach works as the buckets on these older machines are sometimes rusted on.
If I were to consider a 700 series I may go a little newer as suggested- at least into the 730 series.
You can get a feel for the different models and years available from the Bobcat spec page:
http://www.bobcat.com/historical_specs/skid_steer/overview
I'm with Dan too, i like my old 743, the controls are light. The S150 i have is awesome for power, but the steering levers are much stiffer and wear my arms out a lit faster.
The 753 has great power and little electronics to cause issues, but the price will be higher. But it should hold it's value too.
If you only have 2.5k to spend, go the old one, fix it up, possibly sell it later and use that money towards a newer unit? That's what i did, i started with a 731 that was about a 76/78 model, awesome machine.
 
I'm with Dan too, i like my old 743, the controls are light. The S150 i have is awesome for power, but the steering levers are much stiffer and wear my arms out a lit faster.
The 753 has great power and little electronics to cause issues, but the price will be higher. But it should hold it's value too.
If you only have 2.5k to spend, go the old one, fix it up, possibly sell it later and use that money towards a newer unit? That's what i did, i started with a 731 that was about a 76/78 model, awesome machine.
All good advise. Thanks guys. The transitional model machine (clutch to hydro) may be problematic. Here's another a bit further away... http://bgky.craigslist.org/grd/3241963851.html What kind of costs are involved when replacing the hydro pump? Special tools or skills?
 
All good advise. Thanks guys. The transitional model machine (clutch to hydro) may be problematic. Here's another a bit further away... http://bgky.craigslist.org/grd/3241963851.html What kind of costs are involved when replacing the hydro pump? Special tools or skills?
No special skills, just follow instructions and keep the parts clean.
That is a 743 decal, but with 843 on it.... Not sure if it's right or not. Find out what engine it has and tyre size to be sure it is indeed an 843
An 843 pump, this will really cost you. The 743/731 used a vickers ones, parts are well priced, i did one of these about 2 years ago, new parts and bearings ran me a little over 1k. That took the pump back to new condition. The problem with the 843, i believe they don't have wear plates, when they wear, they wear the housing that needs to be ground, heat treated and ground again, that will cost you a lot more than replacing two $50 wear plates.
 
No special skills, just follow instructions and keep the parts clean.
That is a 743 decal, but with 843 on it.... Not sure if it's right or not. Find out what engine it has and tyre size to be sure it is indeed an 843
An 843 pump, this will really cost you. The 743/731 used a vickers ones, parts are well priced, i did one of these about 2 years ago, new parts and bearings ran me a little over 1k. That took the pump back to new condition. The problem with the 843, i believe they don't have wear plates, when they wear, they wear the housing that needs to be ground, heat treated and ground again, that will cost you a lot more than replacing two $50 wear plates.
I looked at the images again, looks liek the tyres a 10x16.5 i think it may be a 743 not 843.
See why it needs a pump too, if it's still there or just needs working on.
 
I looked at the images again, looks liek the tyres a 10x16.5 i think it may be a 743 not 843.
See why it needs a pump too, if it's still there or just needs working on.
Thanks Tazza. No worries on the second one, it's been sold. I did find what looked to be a really well kept M600 near Lexington KY but it had been sold also. I'm going to look at the M700 tomorrow evening. The seller is motivated and willing to help get the machine loaded and off his property. Is there a way to disable or bypass the hydrostatic drive? It won't free roll on inflated tires with that drive system will it?
 
Thanks Tazza. No worries on the second one, it's been sold. I did find what looked to be a really well kept M600 near Lexington KY but it had been sold also. I'm going to look at the M700 tomorrow evening. The seller is motivated and willing to help get the machine loaded and off his property. Is there a way to disable or bypass the hydrostatic drive? It won't free roll on inflated tires with that drive system will it?
i honestly think you are asking for trouble looking at such old units. i wouldnt go any older than mid 80s. be patient, deals come along just be ready.
 
i honestly think you are asking for trouble looking at such old units. i wouldnt go any older than mid 80s. be patient, deals come along just be ready.
Brute force is what i do, worst case you can remove the lines to the drive motors but you risk getting crud into the motors.
If at all possible, drag it on to the trailer, it will be the best way to ensure you keep the system clean.
 
Brute force is what i do, worst case you can remove the lines to the drive motors but you risk getting crud into the motors.
If at all possible, drag it on to the trailer, it will be the best way to ensure you keep the system clean.
$2500 seems a bit steep for a non-op 700, for that kind of money it should be operational. I've noticed that mine will roll a bit when shut off, can't use it as an anchor to winch stuff. Not sure if that's the way it's supposed to be, or if there is a problem, but it drives and turns ok. If you do get it, it won't hurt to bungee the sticks in the direction you want to pull it and see if it will roll.
 
$2500 seems a bit steep for a non-op 700, for that kind of money it should be operational. I've noticed that mine will roll a bit when shut off, can't use it as an anchor to winch stuff. Not sure if that's the way it's supposed to be, or if there is a problem, but it drives and turns ok. If you do get it, it won't hurt to bungee the sticks in the direction you want to pull it and see if it will roll.
Copy that on keeping the hyrdo system clean. I had to help flush a couple that got contaminated many years ago. One was a Hydro Axe, what a nightmare! I'm going to start with an offer of $1000 and see how the seller responds. That's a good tip on bungying the sticks in direction of travel.
 
Copy that on keeping the hyrdo system clean. I had to help flush a couple that got contaminated many years ago. One was a Hydro Axe, what a nightmare! I'm going to start with an offer of $1000 and see how the seller responds. That's a good tip on bungying the sticks in direction of travel.
Well, I bought it. Turns out the seller worked at Clark Equipment for quite some time. Him and his father purchased the unit as a trade-in from the company. Replaced the wheel seals and re-painted. He used it low hours working on their property and some small jobs. They got a 743 four years ago and this one sat. He's confident that a carb rebuild, distributor cap, points and fresh fluids will have it back up and running. And of course, there'll need to be better tires. He settled for $1850 plus $200 for delivery. He's got access to a flat bed tow truck with winch so that will save me a lot of trouble. I'll get the Bobcat next weekend.
 
Well, I bought it. Turns out the seller worked at Clark Equipment for quite some time. Him and his father purchased the unit as a trade-in from the company. Replaced the wheel seals and re-painted. He used it low hours working on their property and some small jobs. They got a 743 four years ago and this one sat. He's confident that a carb rebuild, distributor cap, points and fresh fluids will have it back up and running. And of course, there'll need to be better tires. He settled for $1850 plus $200 for delivery. He's got access to a flat bed tow truck with winch so that will save me a lot of trouble. I'll get the Bobcat next weekend.
Congratulations on your new to you Bobcat. Hope thats all there is to getting it running. Keep us updated on your progress.
 
Congratulations on your new to you Bobcat. Hope thats all there is to getting it running. Keep us updated on your progress.
Purchased four 10 x 16.5 wheels with tires on Saturday. Another Craigslist find. Tires have about 30% tread and the wheels look pretty good. $500 for the set.
 
Well, I bought it. Turns out the seller worked at Clark Equipment for quite some time. Him and his father purchased the unit as a trade-in from the company. Replaced the wheel seals and re-painted. He used it low hours working on their property and some small jobs. They got a 743 four years ago and this one sat. He's confident that a carb rebuild, distributor cap, points and fresh fluids will have it back up and running. And of course, there'll need to be better tires. He settled for $1850 plus $200 for delivery. He's got access to a flat bed tow truck with winch so that will save me a lot of trouble. I'll get the Bobcat next weekend.
Did you confirm it was a M700 from the serial data plate or the owner? That was my best guess based on the pic, but I wasn't positive on that.
 
Did you confirm it was a M700 from the serial data plate or the owner? That was my best guess based on the pic, but I wasn't positive on that.
Yes Tigehaze. M700 is the first four digits in the serial number.
 
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