New to Skid Steers

[Kodiak Kid]

Hello. I recently just purchased a very low hour BC S175. Im look for a good set of grapples. Id like to be able to pick up a 2000 lb log any suggestions?

 

[cdmccul]

You won't be able to with any attachment. They are rated at 1750 pounds.

Any extra attachment you add (like a grapple) eats into that rating. You're probably looking at 1500 max after grapple?

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I was under the assumption the breakout force was much more and with counter weights I could push the factory max lift capabilities quite a bit, or is that not true?

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Grapple size, weight, and model recommendations?

 

[cdmccul]

I don't know on your S series machine, but I can tell you on my 632 the counterweight and lift capacity are pretty well balanced... Even cranking down in the relief valve wouldn't gain me anything, cause the machine would be much more prone to tipping.

PERSONALLY, I don't modify a safety device or setting on a machine. Yes, over clocking your video processor will just make it run hot and probably not kill anyone... But over stress a machine that will kill you and make it hurt the whole time you die isn't high on my list of things to do. Your mileage may vary.

I have seen machines with counter weights, assumably you can over run the hydraulic capabilities by adjusting the bypass valves. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I don't know on your S series machine, but I can tell you on my 632 the counterweight and lift capacity are pretty well balanced... Even cranking down in the relief valve wouldn't gain me anything, cause the machine would be much more prone to tipping.

PERSONALLY, I don't modify a safety devise or setting on a machine. Yes, over clocking your video processor will just make it run hot and probably not kill anyone... But over stress a machine that will kill you and make it hurt the whole time you die isn't high on my list of things to do. Your mileage may vary.

I have seen machines with counter weights, assumably you can over run the hydraulic capabilities by adjusting the bypass valves. Your mileage may vary.

Do you have any recommendations for grapple brand, model, and weight?

 

[mrbb]

just a FYI< the weight rating is also set to what the frame can handle, along with other parts of the machine!
you start over lifting weights, and you will soon have a machine with things failing, which can either get costsly to fix, or dangerous, pending what failes from doing so!

this is why, you should buy a machine rated to do what you want from the get go, and not trying to MAKE a m,achien do something it was not made to do!
safety is a factor as well,
NO bash here just being honest and providing you with honest information!

YES we all soem times over do things with ouyr equipment, so I get it, but when you do so often, it will lead to early failures that again end up costing $$ or worse!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

just a FYI< the weight rating is also set to what the frame can handle, along with other parts of the machine!
you start over lifting weights, and you will soon have a machine with things failing, which can either get costsly to fix, or dangerous, pending what failes from doing so!

this is why, you should buy a machine rated to do what you want from the get go, and not trying to MAKE a m,achien do something it was not made to do!
safety is a factor as well,
NO bash here just being honest and providing you with honest information!

YES we all soem times over do things with ouyr equipment, so I get it, but when you do so often, it will lead to early failures that again end up costing $$ or worse!

Im just a bit worried that I bought the wrong machine! I may be needing something a little bigger.
Let me get this straight. The ROC is the max the machine can lift or lift safey? The tipping load on the S175 is over 4000lbs if the ROC is rated at 50% of the tipping load. Seems to me the machine should be able to manage over 2000lbs no problem "if" need be, or is that not correct?

 

[mrbb]

I am not claiming to be any expert , so ?? but a quick online lookup on spec's for your model, shows this on all the sites I seen show the following,
which IMOL< pretty much states it NOT a machine for lifting 2000 lbs, add in a Grapple, or a HD one might weight mroe than the standard OEM bucket, which, may effect the lift capacity!, and again, the lift ratings, are also, to tell you about the BUILD ratings on, things like lift arms, cylinders, and so on, so when your MAX lifting, your adding a lot of stress to things
add in if NOT working on perfectly level ground, and your can tweak things when at max lift all the more so!
Typically when I BUY anything, I buy so I am NOT using things at MAX ratings, IMO< doing so, and using all the time at MAX< will just shorten the life of the equipment, better to have extra than being at max , if you follow?
Good news is, machines sell pretty quick these days and for top dollar, maybe , find yourself a larger machine and KNOW your safe and can do what you want with it!? just a suggestion, NO bash!


Bobcat S175 spec's ( and like I said, I am sure we all go past rating some times, but that doesn;t mean its right or good for the machine or operator) ,

Lifting Capacity	1750 lbs
Lifting Capacity with Counter Weight	1850 lbs

 

[mrbb]

also food for thought, if your NOT working on level ground when klifting, MORE larger machine is better, IMO< all the more so if it has a wider and longer /larger overall foot print, as off camber can effect lift real fast on safety and tip over spec's!, not to mention pucker factor from in the seat, LOL!

 

[Jim A]

I had a s175 2006 .
Check fuel line from tank it gets pinched between oil pan and plastic tank and engine dies out lacks power.
I got this machine cheap since owner though injection pump was bad.
Good machine keep belt tight.
It can lift pretty good but grapples are heavy and far forward of front wheels limits ability to pick rated load.
Good luck.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I thank you all for your responses, info advice snd opinions. I will definitely take it all into consideration! Of course I wanted a 70-100 HP CTL but it just wasn't in my budget fir cirst time Skid Steer. Hopefully I can up grade sooner than later, or even up grade at all for that matter.

Also, Im looking at solid rubber OT track. So far I've considered Camso and tracks by McLaren Industries.

Any thoughts on these rubber tracks vs other rubber tracks?

Also, on snow removal. For just pushing snow. I would assume a plow work better than a standard bucket. My question is for you guys with experience using both.
How much better?

 

[cdmccul]

I haven't gotten to use an angled blade on the skidder for snow removal.

I LOVE being able to lift, extract, pull, scoop. and stack with a bucket. BUT-on long runs (like a parking lot), not having an angled blade means that you go back over your passes several times. The angled blade will push your tailings off to one side, not spill off both sides.

And yes, you can stack with a blade... But really hard to scoop and pile like you can with a bucket.

I just wish there was a simple and cheap way to connect hydraulic hoses from in the cab... Then I could swap from blade to bucket and back as needed for snow work.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I haven't gotten to use an angled blade on the skidder for snow removal.

I LOVE being able to lift, extract, pull, scoop. and stack with a bucket. BUT-on long runs (like a parking lot), not having an angled blade means that you go back over your passes several times. The angled blade will push your tailings off to one side, not spill off both sides.

And yes, you can stack with a blade... But really hard to scoop and pile like you can with a bucket.

I just wish there was a simple and cheap way to connect hydraulic hoses from in the cab... Then I could swap from blade to bucket and back as needed for snow work.

Roger that, solid info and I Thankyou.

 

[mrbb]

I been plowing snow for a few decades now on all sorts of equipment, my 2 cents on a bucket or a actual plow is, , it tends to come down to how much area you need to plow and what type of area it is,, is it small tight areas, , lots of back dragging required?
is it on dirt, pavement, gravel, concrete?
are you worried about leaving marks on the surface or not?? (they have things with plastic/Polly edges to help prevent marking )

and then, also the amount of snow you typically get per snow fall/plow session! is it a few inches or in a heavy deep snow belt ??
these things all matter IMO

on smaller size lots and driveways, a smooth edge bucket is typically good enough and efficient enough,IMO!
plus like said above , it allows for you to carry and or move snow from away from things or pile/stack it in more places than a plow blade will allow IMO!

as for a SNOW PLOW blade, like a simple angled blade, if I was doing larger area's I where I didn;t want to use a bucket,
I think I would SKIP the standard type of angle plow blade all together and go with a more useful snow scooper blade, all the more so one that has adjustable wings, to go from angle, to scoop, to even revers scoop for back dragging,
to me there way faster at clearing an area, and just more use full over all at moving snow, having more options on them,
but not the best IMO at stacking it, and have to have one the right size to machine, pretty easy to over buy a blade and find out in wet snow its too much for the machine!

NEXT as for over the tire tracks, keep in mind, most tracks are NOT made for snow, and as such, don;t work the best in snow, as to tires
NOT that standard skid steer tires in snow are that great to begin with, they kinda suck if I am honest , hardpack snow, or worse ice and there pretty useless, add in some slope/hill, and things only get worse!
SKid steer's are great at many tasks, but on hills or off camber slopes, is FAR from one of them! and add snow again to off camber or ad in hill , and it only amplifies this! chains and studs sure help, but hard on the surface with can be a big no no or costly issue after the snow melts!

SO< if your planning to use tracks in snow, you might want to reconsider this and stick with tires for snow work, or better yet, invest in some dedicated snow tire wheels for winter work, ,
tracks rule the wet and soft mud soil though! and can , pending surfaces, add some stability to things, so they do have there pro's
SNOW is just not worn of them IMO!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I been plowing snow for a few decades now on all sorts of equipment, my 2 cents on a bucket or a actual plow is, , it tends to come down to how much area you need to plow and what type of area it is,, is it small tight areas, , lots of back dragging required?
is it on dirt, pavement, gravel, concrete?
are you worried about leaving marks on the surface or not?? (they have things with plastic/Polly edges to help prevent marking )

and then, also the amount of snow you typically get per snow fall/plow session! is it a few inches or in a heavy deep snow belt ??
these things all matter IMO

on smaller size lots and driveways, a smooth edge bucket is typically good enough and efficient enough,IMO!
plus like said above , it allows for you to carry and or move snow from away from things or pile/stack it in more places than a plow blade will allow IMO!

as for a SNOW PLOW blade, like a simple angled blade, if I was doing larger area's I where I didn;t want to use a bucket,
I think I would SKIP the standard type of angle plow blade all together and go with a more useful snow scooper blade, all the more so one that has adjustable wings, to go from angle, to scoop, to even revers scoop for back dragging,
to me there way faster at clearing an area, and just more use full over all at moving snow, having more options on them,
but not the best IMO at stacking it, and have to have one the right size to machine, pretty easy to over buy a blade and find out in wet snow its too much for the machine!

NEXT as for over the tire tracks, keep in mind, most tracks are NOT made for snow, and as such, don;t work the best in snow, as to tires
NOT that standard skid steer tires in snow are that great to begin with, they kinda suck if I am honest , hardpack snow, or worse ice and there pretty useless, add in some slope/hill, and things only get worse!
SKid steer's are great at many tasks, but on hills or off camber slopes, is FAR from one of them! and add snow again to off camber or ad in hill , and it only amplifies this! chains and studs sure help, but hard on the surface with can be a big no no or costly issue after the snow melts!

SO< if your planning to use tracks in snow, you might want to reconsider this and stick with tires for snow work, or better yet, invest in some dedicated snow tire wheels for winter work, ,
tracks rule the wet and soft mud soil though! and can , pending surfaces, add some stability to things, so they do have there pro's
SNOW is just not worn of them IMO!

Solid Info and I thank you.
No, plans on using tracks in snow. Probably just use tire chains.
The tracks will be for off road in the woods doing smaller scale logging. However, I'll STIHL be logging some good size wood. Im sure the bigger wood will have to be bucked into shorter log lengths.
I'm currently looking at a continuous solid rubber track from Midwest Equipment.

 

[cdmccul]

I took a couple pictures of the last custom snow removal I did. I had to clear snow against a gate on a fence line. No way a plow blade would have worked here.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I took a couple pictures of the last custom snow removal I did. I had to clear snow against a gate on a fence line. No way a plow blade would have worked here.

Nice! What kind of travel? Tires, TOT , tires with chains?

 

[cdmccul]

OEM style, Firestone brand, 10x16 (I think), skid steer tires. They are newish, came on the machine... So I haven't needed to change them so I haven't paid much attention to the exact sizes. I know they aren't 12x16.5, they are slightly smaller. But not 7x15, etc.

With my machine, they bite in just fine with dirt, but in snow I have found they break free when trying to push. The machine doesn't stall hydraulically, the tires just spin and dig.

If the snow is fairly fresh, I can get under more than enough to exceed my counterweight. If the snow (like above) is packed down hard, I can't get deep enough to over-fill the bucket.... But I don't come out empty handed.

I have found that on polished glare ice and snow, I can "drift" around corners. I should probably chain up. In the budget for next year.

 

[Siregor]

I just looked at your comments, so my response may be too late. I had a 632 bobcat. Bought a used grapple - not sure if brand. Transported it on my trailer and on the way home, i stopped at truck stop and weighed it. Now i know it is older but it is sturdy. It weighed in at 850 pounds. End result - i bought a S175. It works great for my needs but i only use the machine for misc work on my property. FYI