My New Holland LS180 shuts down after 30 seconds. You get the alarm code for the hydrostatic fluid blinking and the yellow stop light. Everything seems to be functioning fine. I replaced the charge pressure switch recommended by the dealer. I also replaced the hydraulic oil filter. Basically when cold the machine runs fine. It will run fine until you shut it down. Once you shut it down and try starting up again you will get the fault and it will shut down. There is no loss of power to both bucket and drive system. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Other info -20 hours on new engine oil and filter -.5 hours on hydraulic filter -Topped off hydraulic oil - 10W30 -Replaced Switch Pressure sensor - 86534287 - Tested old sensor with air compressor and ohm meeter and it was working. - Tested new sensor with engine on in diagnostic mode sensor reads correct ohms under pressure I also disconnected the hydro filter green wire to test, then I put it back and now I get the hydro temp alert. The temp is more then fine, operating at 120-130F. It's supposed to only go off at 230F. Tony
New Holland LS180 powers down 30 seconds, Red hydro low pressure light is on
- Thread starter tony_d
- Start date
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
skidsteer.ca
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2006
- Messages
- 3,853
It sounds like you may have a loose or poor wiring conection to the eic.
Here is a manual for a 160/170 but i believe the eic is the same. follow the trouble shoot procedure there.
http://www.mediafire.com/?ux89bq2u4u3ug
You should also buy a 500 psi guage and replace you sender with it so you can monitor the pressure as the oil warms up. A 160 calls for @ 170 psi. Not sure on yours though.
You would have to conect the 2 sender wires together so it does not shut down while you habe the guage in there. The prssure switch should be a simple on/off circuit, but the temp will be based on the senders resistance it feeds back to the computer.
Tradebit.com may have a manual available for your machine.
Ken
Here is a manual for a 160/170 but i believe the eic is the same. follow the trouble shoot procedure there.
http://www.mediafire.com/?ux89bq2u4u3ug
You should also buy a 500 psi guage and replace you sender with it so you can monitor the pressure as the oil warms up. A 160 calls for @ 170 psi. Not sure on yours though.
You would have to conect the 2 sender wires together so it does not shut down while you habe the guage in there. The prssure switch should be a simple on/off circuit, but the temp will be based on the senders resistance it feeds back to the computer.
Tradebit.com may have a manual available for your machine.
Ken
Thank you, I will try a few things listed in the manual and report my findings. I'm just not sure what happened after I disconnected and reconnected the sensor on the back of the oil filter block. Once I did the oil temp light is on and staying on. I appreciate the help. Thanks.
skidsteer.ca
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2006
- Messages
- 3,853
I wonder if it twisted the stud in the sensor messing it up or if the wire got tugged on, causeing it to ground out to the frame through a thin spot..., not sure but there is a reason.
Ken
I know you might think this is dumb, but did you change the right sesnor. The correct sensor part number for the hydrostatic charge pressure is 87036787. The sensor for the air cleaner is also located near this pressure sensor and depending on what version of the swtich that was on your machine they can look similar.
The light that is on is the top left light on the right side of the panel? The one below it is for engine oil pressure and will cause the same problem.
The sensor at the filter base is for detecting clogged filters and should not affect the temp reading. Use the arrow key next to the display to move the monitored circuit to something else other than hydraulic oil temp. If the system detects an over heat problem in the hydraulic circuit then the display will automatically display the oil temp. If it only shows 120 when this happens then I would suspect a fauty instrument panel. As you know it is only proecessing ohm reading and if the sensor or wiring was at fault the displayed temp would be higher.
Check the wiring where it lays on top of the engine, between the valve cover and thermostat housing. The engine vibration can cause the harness to become worn through.
You might try removing the instrument panel and check the harness connectors. Remove the connectors and check the wire ends.
The light that is on is the top left light on the right side of the panel? The one below it is for engine oil pressure and will cause the same problem.
The sensor at the filter base is for detecting clogged filters and should not affect the temp reading. Use the arrow key next to the display to move the monitored circuit to something else other than hydraulic oil temp. If the system detects an over heat problem in the hydraulic circuit then the display will automatically display the oil temp. If it only shows 120 when this happens then I would suspect a fauty instrument panel. As you know it is only proecessing ohm reading and if the sensor or wiring was at fault the displayed temp would be higher.
Check the wiring where it lays on top of the engine, between the valve cover and thermostat housing. The engine vibration can cause the harness to become worn through.
You might try removing the instrument panel and check the harness connectors. Remove the connectors and check the wire ends.
Update : I started doing the diagnostic test from the service manual. Every connection to the EIC was operational so I don't think anything is wrong with wiring. I started the skidsteer in normal operation mode and sure enough shuts down again. So onto the next test. I took out the hydro pressure sensor and put in a PSI gauge. The gauge can only do 300PSI, sure enough it just about maxed it. I was reading 295-299 PSI's. According to the manual for the 160 and 170 model it's supposed to be 160PSI, so I'm not sure if I'm way over the pressure it's supposed to be or it's because it was a compression tester meant for heads in a motor and not oil. I also noticed oil goes up that tube big time. Even so, the sender should read as an open circuit with an ohm meeter and not shut down. So I put the hydro pressure sensor back in and left the wires unhooked to simulate a working pressure sensor when the skidsteer is running. (Closed circuit skidsteer off or low pressure, open circuit working condition. Sure enough no shutdowns, no error lights or anything. I have a working happy skidsteer. I also shorted the wires to simulate low pressure and I did get the error light. Now I think I might have a bad EIC because I constantly checked the hydro pressure resistance with the ohm meeter to make sure I'm not in a low pressure mode. It was reading the way it should every time I checked it. Has anyone had any strange issues with just the Oil pressure sender to the EIC ? I don't think the wires are rubbing or grounded either since I did all the tests unhooking each wire to the sender in diagnostic mode and it beeped every time like it was supposed to. I also want to thank everyone for contributing since the New Holland dealer was so unwilling to help. Even though I plunked down at least $500+ in parts over the last 6 months. Hopefully I can return the favor some day. Tony.
The charge pressure for a LS180 should be 250-300 PSI. The pressure switch you are using is for a swather not for skid loaders. What difference this makes I can not say, but since they both have similar charge pressure specs, I would suspect there is a difference in what the instrument panels are looking for from the switches.
Mike, I think the pressure switch is simply an on and off device. It basically shorts the terminals under low pressure to trigger the low pressure alarm. Once enough pressure is applied it separates the terminal connectors "open loop" and infinite resistance. I tested with an air compressor to verify with a very high end Fluke Ohm meeter. It triggers around 50PSI "(Accurate with the service manual). So I would suspect something else is wrong with the EIC. But when I unhook the sender and leave the connections open looped. It doesn't shut down, but the sender also shows no resistance. So I'm wondering if it's the way I relocated the sender. Almost sideways instead pointing downward (where it can collect oil). I relocated the sender so I could get to it from the left side access panel so I can do random ohm readings without having to lift the seat every time. I think I tested a few times with it in it's normal position and it was reading in the Mega-ohms, not sure if that's enough to trip it. I'm wondering if the oil acts as a medium between the two contacts creating a resistance. Is it possible the oil is shorting the terminals internally even on a brand new sender ? There's no leaks either. Is oil supposed to be in the pressure switch tube ? Maybe that's my problem. I'm going to try and hook up the hydro pressure switch wires with it in it's new position to see if it still shuts down. This is starting to make no sense to me. I'm hope I'm not overlooking the obvious. Tony.
To add to my above post. For those who have LS180's, is the sender mounted right off the pump housing coupler under the seat, then the tube goes upwards, then is bent 180 degrees downward into the bracket and then the sensor is hanging. Is it possible oil is collecting in there causing an issue ? It doesn't look pinched there at all but does bend 180 degrees
i ordered the new pressure sensor but it is not marked with a c and a nc so i know which wire to put on whcich screw, does it matter on the new design 87036787?
It should not matter in what position the sender is placed, at least not the skid loader sender. They use the same sender on the smaller loaders and it sticks straight out to the side on these machines. There should be oil going into the switch when the engine is running. Did you check the resistance when the engine is running? There should be infinite resistance when the engine is running, if you have no resistance than the switch is not working the way it should. I would think the swather sender that you installed would work the same way, but I have no experience with them to say for sure.
Ever get an answer on the wires? Changing mine and it has no markings. Was wondering the same.
Doesn't matter. It's just opened or closed. Current can flow either way.
I have too many "jumped" out items on my 180 to count. Sometimes you do t have the time to find those frickin shorts the mice seem to cause. lol, I digress. Sounds like if everything is operating fine run with it till you have time to fix it. I do not like the EIC , I do not like it at all. Good luck.
