New Holland L190 hard to start cold

[Mike10]

I pulled the pins on the boom cylinders and tried to lift from the front but it didn't work because of how the boom works. I tried from the back but it only went up 1/2 way before lifting the back of the machine. Any ideas on how to get the boom up so I can access the engine?

Look at the bottom of the lift cylinder barrels. Is there a plug pointing to the outside. It would take a 7/8" wrench. If you have this plug you can have a hose made to attach to this cylinder port and use an external hydraulic source to raise the boom. You only need to do this to one cylinder. You must remove the line at the rod end of the cylinder so the oil in the top end of the cylinders can escape.
If you do not have a cylinder with an external port, then remove the fitting from the bottom of the barrel and get some fittings to make this into a tee fitting and attach your external hose here. Againk, remove the line from the rod end of the cylinder.

 

[speed_demon]

Look at the bottom of the lift cylinder barrels. Is there a plug pointing to the outside. It would take a 7/8" wrench. If you have this plug you can have a hose made to attach to this cylinder port and use an external hydraulic source to raise the boom. You only need to do this to one cylinder. You must remove the line at the rod end of the cylinder so the oil in the top end of the cylinders can escape.
If you do not have a cylinder with an external port, then remove the fitting from the bottom of the barrel and get some fittings to make this into a tee fitting and attach your external hose here. Againk, remove the line from the rod end of the cylinder.

That sounds like a good way. The cylinders have the ports but have an external hydraulic source. If I can't hoist it I may have to figure something out.

 

[speed_demon]

That sounds like a good way. The cylinders have the ports but have an external hydraulic source. If I can't hoist it I may have to figure something out.

I mean I don't have an external hydraulic source.

 

[SkidRoe]

I mean I don't have an external hydraulic source.

Do you have a tractor or another skidsteer? Or a friend with said equipment?

 

[speed_demon]

Do you have a tractor or another skidsteer? Or a friend with said equipment?

Not really. I have a large forklift and a manlift but I don't think either have auxiliary hydraulic outputs.

 

[SkidRoe]

Not really. I have a large forklift and a manlift but I don't think either have auxiliary hydraulic outputs.

Harbor Freight has an air over hydraulic porta power on for $135. Might work...

 

[speed_demon]

Harbor Freight has an air over hydraulic porta power on for $135. Might work...

I'm up in Alaska so I can't really wait for shipping but maybe I can find something comparable at the local granger.

 

[SkidRoe]

I'm up in Alaska so I can't really wait for shipping but maybe I can find something comparable at the local granger.

Ah, got you. Grainger should have something, but it could be expensive. Maybe you could rent something?

 

[Mike10]

I'm up in Alaska so I can't really wait for shipping but maybe I can find something comparable at the local granger.

It takes about 3 qts of oil to raise the boom.
Do you have a plug in block heater?

 

[Mike10]

It takes about 3 qts of oil to raise the boom.
Do you have a plug in block heater?

Another thought. The auxillary hydr handle must be in the neutral position for the engine to start. The engine will crank but it will not start because power goes through the switch on the control valve when in neutral, to the fuel shut off solenoid.
I will tell you a way to get the boom up, but understand this is only for a situation like you have and you must reinstall the parts I tell you to remove for your safety.
Remove the panel that is between your legs when you sit in the loader. Raise the seat by releasing the latch lever in the lower rear right corner of the seat support. Right side is determined by looking at the seat from the front of the loader. Now remove the eight bolts that hold the panel in place. After the panel is removed you can see the hydraulic control valve. At the front of the control valve you will see solenoids on the left and center valve spool and a switch on the right spool. Again this in looking in from the front. Disconnect the wire connector for the center solenoid and unscrew the solenoid out of the valve block.
Lower the seat and enter the loader. Hold the foot pedal down like you are raising the loader. While holding the pedal crank the engine. If fully charged the battery should have enough power to raise the boom. You may want to raise it in increments to let the starter cool down. Do not exit the loader until the boom is high enough to engage the boom lock. Under no circumstance should you leave the operators compartment if you have to crawl under the boom.
Reinstall the solenoid into the valve spool.

 

[speed_demon]

Another thought. The auxillary hydr handle must be in the neutral position for the engine to start. The engine will crank but it will not start because power goes through the switch on the control valve when in neutral, to the fuel shut off solenoid.
I will tell you a way to get the boom up, but understand this is only for a situation like you have and you must reinstall the parts I tell you to remove for your safety.
Remove the panel that is between your legs when you sit in the loader. Raise the seat by releasing the latch lever in the lower rear right corner of the seat support. Right side is determined by looking at the seat from the front of the loader. Now remove the eight bolts that hold the panel in place. After the panel is removed you can see the hydraulic control valve. At the front of the control valve you will see solenoids on the left and center valve spool and a switch on the right spool. Again this in looking in from the front. Disconnect the wire connector for the center solenoid and unscrew the solenoid out of the valve block.
Lower the seat and enter the loader. Hold the foot pedal down like you are raising the loader. While holding the pedal crank the engine. If fully charged the battery should have enough power to raise the boom. You may want to raise it in increments to let the starter cool down. Do not exit the loader until the boom is high enough to engage the boom lock. Under no circumstance should you leave the operators compartment if you have to crawl under the boom.
Reinstall the solenoid into the valve spool.

That's a pretty good idea! In response to your earlier post. The machine has a working block heater and it was plugged in. We cycled the grid heater until it was nice and hot. I even went so far as to tarp the machine and use a space heater for a couple hours. It didn't even try to fire. No smoke either. I really think it's not getting fuel. I was able to get to the main spin-on filter and it was only half full. Maybe I have a leak and it's bleeding down? The fuel pump is working fine and it should have winter diesel. Would that also explain the hard initial cold start?

 

[Mike10]

That's a pretty good idea! In response to your earlier post. The machine has a working block heater and it was plugged in. We cycled the grid heater until it was nice and hot. I even went so far as to tarp the machine and use a space heater for a couple hours. It didn't even try to fire. No smoke either. I really think it's not getting fuel. I was able to get to the main spin-on filter and it was only half full. Maybe I have a leak and it's bleeding down? The fuel pump is working fine and it should have winter diesel. Would that also explain the hard initial cold start?

No smoke is a good indication the engine is not getting fuel. Don't worry about the cold start advance until you get these other problems corrected. The advance would still let fuel in to the injectors and the engine would smoke. You could have more than one problem going on. When you can get to the injection pump check to make sure the fuel shut off solenoid is getting power with the key on. If you have no power check that the auxillary hydrualic control handle is in the neutral position. This is the handle on top of the right steering lever. If it is then unplug the switch at the control valve auxillary spool. The power comes from the instrument panel to the auxillary control valve spool switch, then to the injection pump. With the key on you should have power to one wire of the connector. You can temporarilly install a jumper wire in the connector coming from the instrument panel.
With a half full fuel fiter it sounds like the fuel pump is not getting fuel or you have a leak in the fuel supply line. Did you bleed the fuel filter? On some engines that have had a fuel supply problem you have to loosen the injecor line nuts slightly and crank the engine to bleed the air from the injectior lines before they will start. I am not familiar with the L190 engine but the L185 engine will not start unless the injector lines are bled. I usually crack two or three injector line nuts since some may to be easilly accessable.
You do have an inline fuel filter also. Check the fuel lines from the tank to the injection pump, especially at the left rear corner of the engine, looking from the back, for places that have worn through. You will not always see fuel leaking at those places but air can leak in. Have heard of, but never seen, holes in the fuel supply tube that goes into the fuel tank.
If you have power to the fuel solenoid and the fuel system is bled and you are not getting fuel at the injectors when the line nuts are loosened then I would suspect the fuel shut off solenoid. You should hear it click when power is supplied to it.
If you can come up with the fittings you can install a clear line in the fuel supply line to the fuel pump and check for air bubble when you do get the engine started. Air bubbles in the fuel supply line can be detrimental to the injection pump.

 

[Mike10]

No smoke is a good indication the engine is not getting fuel. Don't worry about the cold start advance until you get these other problems corrected. The advance would still let fuel in to the injectors and the engine would smoke. You could have more than one problem going on. When you can get to the injection pump check to make sure the fuel shut off solenoid is getting power with the key on. If you have no power check that the auxillary hydrualic control handle is in the neutral position. This is the handle on top of the right steering lever. If it is then unplug the switch at the control valve auxillary spool. The power comes from the instrument panel to the auxillary control valve spool switch, then to the injection pump. With the key on you should have power to one wire of the connector. You can temporarilly install a jumper wire in the connector coming from the instrument panel.
With a half full fuel fiter it sounds like the fuel pump is not getting fuel or you have a leak in the fuel supply line. Did you bleed the fuel filter? On some engines that have had a fuel supply problem you have to loosen the injecor line nuts slightly and crank the engine to bleed the air from the injectior lines before they will start. I am not familiar with the L190 engine but the L185 engine will not start unless the injector lines are bled. I usually crack two or three injector line nuts since some may to be easilly accessable.
You do have an inline fuel filter also. Check the fuel lines from the tank to the injection pump, especially at the left rear corner of the engine, looking from the back, for places that have worn through. You will not always see fuel leaking at those places but air can leak in. Have heard of, but never seen, holes in the fuel supply tube that goes into the fuel tank.
If you have power to the fuel solenoid and the fuel system is bled and you are not getting fuel at the injectors when the line nuts are loosened then I would suspect the fuel shut off solenoid. You should hear it click when power is supplied to it.
If you can come up with the fittings you can install a clear line in the fuel supply line to the fuel pump and check for air bubble when you do get the engine started. Air bubbles in the fuel supply line can be detrimental to the injection pump.

I have seen debris getting stuck in the fuel supply pipe inside the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank filler cap and blow back through the supply line.

 

[speed_demon]

I have seen debris getting stuck in the fuel supply pipe inside the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank filler cap and blow back through the supply line.

Thanks to you I got the boom up. I was actually able to turn the key on, turn off the parking brake, put my foot down, then crank the starter and it worked great. I bled one then two injectors and it fired off. I think I may still have a problem but getting it started made me pretty happy. I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I try to start it again.

 

[SkidRoe]

Thanks to you I got the boom up. I was actually able to turn the key on, turn off the parking brake, put my foot down, then crank the starter and it worked great. I bled one then two injectors and it fired off. I think I may still have a problem but getting it started made me pretty happy. I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I try to start it again.

Yay!! it runs!! Glad to hear you got it going. Now to get to the bottom of that fuel problem.... BTW - Where in Alaska are you? I did a whirlwind tour about 8 years ago: Anchorage, Fairbanks, Delta Junction, Bolio Lake... Cold, but Awesome!!! You live in a truly beautiful place.

 

[Mike10]

Thanks to you I got the boom up. I was actually able to turn the key on, turn off the parking brake, put my foot down, then crank the starter and it worked great. I bled one then two injectors and it fired off. I think I may still have a problem but getting it started made me pretty happy. I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I try to start it again.

I think I had a senior moment for not thinking about what you did. I have done the same thing several times in the past. I was thinking since the brakes would not be released the control valve would not be either even though I know different. Well it appears half the battle is over and now you need to see if it is indeed bleeding back through the fuel system. Be sure to check the fuel lines for worn areas. Air entering the fuel system makes it very difficult to start the engine.

 

[speed_demon]

I think I had a senior moment for not thinking about what you did. I have done the same thing several times in the past. I was thinking since the brakes would not be released the control valve would not be either even though I know different. Well it appears half the battle is over and now you need to see if it is indeed bleeding back through the fuel system. Be sure to check the fuel lines for worn areas. Air entering the fuel system makes it very difficult to start the engine.

I live in Anchorage. Like any place it's got pros and cons. I didn't end up coming in this weekend but it fired up today without too much trouble. It sat for 2 days, temp is about 15 degrees and I didn't have the block heater plugged in. I was sort of hoping it wouldn't start so I could confirm a problem.