Need help figuring out 1992 L555 ORCB system

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

scottlandyard

Well-known member
Joined
May 10, 2009
Messages
59
I just purchased a 1992 L555 from a farmer who says it's been sitting for two years-+. He said he was not able to start it because of the seatbelt\operator seat switches. I was able to put booster cables on it and start it by getting power directly to the solenoid. However at this point none of the hydraulics will work including the drive motors.the engine does not labor, nothing. The previous owner said all the hydraulics were working fine when he parked it. The operator seat is Rusty but I was able to push down on the 2X 3 inch round black switches. I've also latched the seatbelt, but I still cannot start it with the Key switch or move the boom or bucket. I'm getting it towed home on a flatbed tomorrow night. I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction as to where to start and how to proceed. any help is much appreciated.
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,840
I'd check that the linkage between the engine and pump is still in tact.
 

Mike10

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2011
Messages
1,077
Look at the black box bolted to the right side aside your right leg. Look at the lower front corner of the box. About a 1/2" back from this corner you will see a notch. In this notch is a small switch. The box should say service and operate or run. Flip the switch to service. In this position the engine should start since it by-passes the seat switch and seat belt switch. The hydraulics will not work though. That should get the engine running and if you find the hydraulic problem you can drive the loader but you can not use the boom or bucket.
Since you have no hydraulics either the engine drive plate is stripped or sheared, or the oil level is too low for the pump to pickup prime, or the pump seals are not applying enough sealing against the pump gears for the pump to pick up prime, or the filter in the stand pipe is plugged..
If the oil level is full, you may even want to overfill the reservoir so the oil level is closer to the pump level. The standpipe is behind the kick panel. Remove the center kick panel by unclipping the latches. Then remove the right side panel by removing two bolts. The stand pipe is behind this panel. Take the cap off and pull the filter out and clean.
If the pump still does not work then remove the pump. Unclamp the intake hose and unscrew the pressure hose. The pump is held on the hydro pumps by two bolts. Remove these bolts and remove the pump. Now with the service/operate switch, mentioned above, in the service position and the thottle off crank the engine and see if the center shaft of the hydro pump is turning. If it is turning the engine drive plate is ok and the problem is the pump.
If the problem is in the pump, then disassemble and look for wear. If the pump looks ok, then just reseal it and it should work.
After you get the loader starting and the hydraulic working we can tackle the safety equipment.
 
OP
OP
scottlandyard

scottlandyard

Well-known member
Joined
May 10, 2009
Messages
59
Look at the black box bolted to the right side aside your right leg. Look at the lower front corner of the box. About a 1/2" back from this corner you will see a notch. In this notch is a small switch. The box should say service and operate or run. Flip the switch to service. In this position the engine should start since it by-passes the seat switch and seat belt switch. The hydraulics will not work though. That should get the engine running and if you find the hydraulic problem you can drive the loader but you can not use the boom or bucket.
Since you have no hydraulics either the engine drive plate is stripped or sheared, or the oil level is too low for the pump to pickup prime, or the pump seals are not applying enough sealing against the pump gears for the pump to pick up prime, or the filter in the stand pipe is plugged..
If the oil level is full, you may even want to overfill the reservoir so the oil level is closer to the pump level. The standpipe is behind the kick panel. Remove the center kick panel by unclipping the latches. Then remove the right side panel by removing two bolts. The stand pipe is behind this panel. Take the cap off and pull the filter out and clean.
If the pump still does not work then remove the pump. Unclamp the intake hose and unscrew the pressure hose. The pump is held on the hydro pumps by two bolts. Remove these bolts and remove the pump. Now with the service/operate switch, mentioned above, in the service position and the thottle off crank the engine and see if the center shaft of the hydro pump is turning. If it is turning the engine drive plate is ok and the problem is the pump.
If the problem is in the pump, then disassemble and look for wear. If the pump looks ok, then just reseal it and it should work.
After you get the loader starting and the hydraulic working we can tackle the safety equipment.
thank you very much for your reply. I will look for that small switch so that I can start it. As for the oil level I think that must be the culprit. The machine is sitting tilted backwards a bit and it started to move (drive) but sounded like it ran out of fluid. I'll check that standpipe as soon as it gets delivered to me. Thank you so much for your reply!
 

Latest posts

Top