LX885 blowing hydraulic oil out of engine to transmission gearbox

[tech.35058]

You are correct, if you are not dismantling the pump, you dont need that $500 seal kit. For a "getting paid to do it" job , we would always use new snap rings , but the ones holding the seal in should be fine. The washer-spacer should alo have no reason to wear. Look at the snaprings holding the drive gear on the shaft for wear, though.
The chain from the front top of cab to lower fronttiefown/lift eye was just an abundance of caution. I dont think much of my welding skills.
i dont think i would be comfortable trusting boom chained to the safety catches.
. There are 2 bolts on each corner of the cab. The very front 2 are what the cab hinges on.
. The top bracket essentially ads a temporary connection point at the top of the cab. It is essentially a pair of plates(one inside the cab , one outside) with pieces to locate the upper loader arm so the bracket cannot slip up or down the cab corner post. It is not an original design, mostly a poor copy of the NH cab jack from drawings in.tne service manual.
The turn buckles pull.the cab to the balance point, then support the cab as it come on over.
Do you have a service manual?
Over tire tracks ... these make an incredible difference in the mud.
Like some one said about 4 wheel drive, it means i get stuck where no one can help me.

 

[JeremyG]

You are correct, if you are not dismantling the pump, you dont need that $500 seal kit. For a "getting paid to do it" job , we would always use new snap rings , but the ones holding the seal in should be fine. The washer-spacer should alo have no reason to wear. Look at the snaprings holding the drive gear on the shaft for wear, though.
The chain from the front top of cab to lower fronttiefown/lift eye was just an abundance of caution. I dont think much of my welding skills.
i dont think i would be comfortable trusting boom chained to the safety catches.
. There are 2 bolts on each corner of the cab. The very front 2 are what the cab hinges on.
. The top bracket essentially ads a temporary connection point at the top of the cab. It is essentially a pair of plates(one inside the cab , one outside) with pieces to locate the upper loader arm so the bracket cannot slip up or down the cab corner post. It is not an original design, mostly a poor copy of the NH cab jack from drawings in.tne service manual.
The turn buckles pull.the cab to the balance point, then support the cab as it come on over.
Do you have a service manual?
Over tire tracks ... these make an incredible difference in the mud.
Like some one said about 4 wheel drive, it means i get stuck where no one can help me.

My Reman pump arrived yesterday, just waiting for the new O rings for mounting them. I think I'll pull the seal off the old unit to see what's involved.
I do have the service manual. I've seen the picture of the cab jack and the parts for the kit are listed in the parts diagrams. But I still think it should be possible to support the boom underneath the attachment plate and lower it down with a forklift? Maybe even strap it up at that point if it needs to be pulled down/over a little? It's doing the same job as the cab jack, yes? Between fully extended and lowered onto the safety pins the boom only has a couple of inches of movement left. i know there's some complicated geometry involved but I can't see an issue, although I'm not ready to try it just yet ha! Waiting for someone to say they've done it first.
Are the tracks any good in snow/ice conditions? i imagine they could get clogged up with snow?

 

[JeremyG]

You are correct, if you are not dismantling the pump, you dont need that $500 seal kit. For a "getting paid to do it" job , we would always use new snap rings , but the ones holding the seal in should be fine. The washer-spacer should alo have no reason to wear. Look at the snaprings holding the drive gear on the shaft for wear, though.
The chain from the front top of cab to lower fronttiefown/lift eye was just an abundance of caution. I dont think much of my welding skills.
i dont think i would be comfortable trusting boom chained to the safety catches.
. There are 2 bolts on each corner of the cab. The very front 2 are what the cab hinges on.
. The top bracket essentially ads a temporary connection point at the top of the cab. It is essentially a pair of plates(one inside the cab , one outside) with pieces to locate the upper loader arm so the bracket cannot slip up or down the cab corner post. It is not an original design, mostly a poor copy of the NH cab jack from drawings in.tne service manual.
The turn buckles pull.the cab to the balance point, then support the cab as it come on over.
Do you have a service manual?
Over tire tracks ... these make an incredible difference in the mud.
Like some one said about 4 wheel drive, it means i get stuck where no one can help me.

 

[JeremyG]

You are correct, if you are not dismantling the pump, you dont need that $500 seal kit. For a "getting paid to do it" job , we would always use new snap rings , but the ones holding the seal in should be fine. The washer-spacer should alo have no reason to wear. Look at the snaprings holding the drive gear on the shaft for wear, though.
The chain from the front top of cab to lower fronttiefown/lift eye was just an abundance of caution. I dont think much of my welding skills.
i dont think i would be comfortable trusting boom chained to the safety catches.
. There are 2 bolts on each corner of the cab. The very front 2 are what the cab hinges on.
. The top bracket essentially ads a temporary connection point at the top of the cab. It is essentially a pair of plates(one inside the cab , one outside) with pieces to locate the upper loader arm so the bracket cannot slip up or down the cab corner post. It is not an original design, mostly a poor copy of the NH cab jack from drawings in.tne service manual.
The turn buckles pull.the cab to the balance point, then support the cab as it come on over.
Do you have a service manual?
Over tire tracks ... these make an incredible difference in the mud.
Like some one said about 4 wheel drive, it means i get stuck where no one can help me.

 

[tech.35058]

My Reman pump arrived yesterday, just waiting for the new O rings for mounting them. I think I'll pull the seal off the old unit to see what's involved.
I do have the service manual. I've seen the picture of the cab jack and the parts for the kit are listed in the parts diagrams. But I still think it should be possible to support the boom underneath the attachment plate and lower it down with a forklift? Maybe even strap it up at that point if it needs to be pulled down/over a little? It's doing the same job as the cab jack, yes? Between fully extended and lowered onto the safety pins the boom only has a couple of inches of movement left. i know there's some complicated geometry involved but I can't see an issue, although I'm not ready to try it just yet ha! Waiting for someone to say they've done it first.
Are the tracks any good in snow/ice conditions? i imagine they could get clogged up with snow?

Pulling the seal off the core unit is a good plan.
tipping the cab by pulling the loader frame ...
I am not at all sure where the travel stops are, or how they are designed to work. I have "overbalanced" the machine forward, & used the hydraulic down pressure to tip it back on to its wheels,, but pulling up on something that is supposed to support weight, ummm, I dunno.
Those little "boom support nubbins" don't stick out very far. The leverage on the forklift, with the mast extended up might even over power the counter weight. again, it is supposed to withstand a downward force (gravity) , as opposed to a "forward force" ( resistance to pulling the Skidsteer cab). This is what went wrong with my attempts to tip my cab with the farm tractor. not so much about weight, but leverage when attempting to pull with a raised attachment point, raising the other end of the lifting machine.
Tracks in snow ... Snow is not a regular thing in my part of Alabama, & when it does, I try to stay indoors. Very rare for snow to last more than a couple of days, & generally, "they" close the roads any way. My steel tracks are a no-no on pavement. ( not that our counties roads are that great to start with!) But they really help in mud or rough terrain.

 

[tech.35058]

Pulling the seal off the core unit is a good plan.
tipping the cab by pulling the loader frame ...
I am not at all sure where the travel stops are, or how they are designed to work. I have "overbalanced" the machine forward, & used the hydraulic down pressure to tip it back on to its wheels,, but pulling up on something that is supposed to support weight, ummm, I dunno.
Those little "boom support nubbins" don't stick out very far. The leverage on the forklift, with the mast extended up might even over power the counter weight. again, it is supposed to withstand a downward force (gravity) , as opposed to a "forward force" ( resistance to pulling the Skidsteer cab). This is what went wrong with my attempts to tip my cab with the farm tractor. not so much about weight, but leverage when attempting to pull with a raised attachment point, raising the other end of the lifting machine.
Tracks in snow ... Snow is not a regular thing in my part of Alabama, & when it does, I try to stay indoors. Very rare for snow to last more than a couple of days, & generally, "they" close the roads any way. My steel tracks are a no-no on pavement. ( not that our counties roads are that great to start with!) But they really help in mud or rough terrain.

 

[JeremyG]

Pulling the seal off the core unit is a good plan.
tipping the cab by pulling the loader frame ...
I am not at all sure where the travel stops are, or how they are designed to work. I have "overbalanced" the machine forward, & used the hydraulic down pressure to tip it back on to its wheels,, but pulling up on something that is supposed to support weight, ummm, I dunno.
Those little "boom support nubbins" don't stick out very far. The leverage on the forklift, with the mast extended up might even over power the counter weight. again, it is supposed to withstand a downward force (gravity) , as opposed to a "forward force" ( resistance to pulling the Skidsteer cab). This is what went wrong with my attempts to tip my cab with the farm tractor. not so much about weight, but leverage when attempting to pull with a raised attachment point, raising the other end of the lifting machine.
Tracks in snow ... Snow is not a regular thing in my part of Alabama, & when it does, I try to stay indoors. Very rare for snow to last more than a couple of days, & generally, "they" close the roads any way. My steel tracks are a no-no on pavement. ( not that our counties roads are that great to start with!) But they really help in mud or rough terrain.

I'm guessing that once the rear bolts are removed with the boom raised its not far off falling forwards? So the forklift would just support and lower the boom and cab rather than excert any force on it. Maybe it would need a pry bar to get it going over? So the forks would be under the attachment plate. In my mind it would work but your experience is confusing me a little. The counter weight of the machine seems to be sufficient when using the cab jack method. If anything the forklift method would seems more secure?

 

[tech.35058]

I'm guessing that once the rear bolts are removed with the boom raised its not far off falling forwards? So the forklift would just support and lower the boom and cab rather than excert any force on it. Maybe it would need a pry bar to get it going over? So the forks would be under the attachment plate. In my mind it would work but your experience is confusing me a little. The counter weight of the machine seems to be sufficient when using the cab jack method. If anything the forklift method would seems more secure?

Look at where the pivot point would be. You have to move all of the cab weight, and a lot of the boom weight to get to the balance point. I had to "pull"(jack turn buckle in tension) it about half of the total travel, then support it ( jack turnbuckle in compression) for the other half of the travel. I think i read about some one using a hydraulic jack to raise their cab "some". I think the forklift would posibly support the cab assy on the way forward, (if you jacked it past the balance point) but how would you get a soft landing on the way back ?

 

[JeremyG]

Look at where the pivot point would be. You have to move all of the cab weight, and a lot of the boom weight to get to the balance point. I had to "pull"(jack turn buckle in tension) it about half of the total travel, then support it ( jack turnbuckle in compression) for the other half of the travel. I think i read about some one using a hydraulic jack to raise their cab "some". I think the forklift would posibly support the cab assy on the way forward, (if you jacked it past the balance point) but how would you get a soft landing on the way back ?

Yes, I see. I do have a portable 1 ton gantry that would straddle the machine and that could handle the cab lift and lowering. It would move forwards/backwards with the lifting/lowering. Between the two I can't see an issue?