Hey guys where do I drain the hydrolic actually 10w30 oil from.. I want to change my hydrolic filter and oil.. Also today I had a problem while operating the machine just beeped and shut down and the stop light flashed and hydrolic light flashed so I checked the reservoir to find the oil was about a inch below the line. So I topped off and it was fine but I wanted to know where it went, I looked under machine and seen a slow drip coming from the square cut out where you drain the oil. What do you think happened? It didn't happen again and I haven't had time to take the cover off to inspect, maybe it's a line that loosened up? It's a lx565 thx guys.
Lx565 hydrolic oil change
- Thread starter Delly
- Start date
did you down load the manual from the link I put in your brake thread? It is for the ls 160 but they are very similar machines and should have all the maintenance procedures in it. A lot of guys pump the oil out the aux couplers, I never saw a drain on the tank so if you go that route you will have to take the suction hose off.
Save that manual on a flash drive ,it will come in handy. By the way you do know there are two gear reduction cases that you fill with gear lube under the seat?
Delly, On my LX 465 I had a similar problem. There is a hose that "T's" on the side of the of the pump and goes down back under the engine. The hose was rubbing on the chassis and wore thru. You need to take the whole engine cover off the bottom to get at it. Hope this helps. Dave
Yes jerry I have the downloaded Manuel but I didn't see it in there I'll have to look again, as for the thing you said I didn't know that.. How often do they have to be filled?
Delly, lift the seat and look down on both sides you will see a reduction gear case. There is a small elbow with a plug in it that is the fill point and also the fill level. It takes gear oil 75-90 or whatever you have handy. They are very neglected and mine came from the dealer supposedly serviced and they were low if not empty. From what I found out they had trouble keeping them sealed so on the ls160 they made them connected with the chain case and use chain case oil.
If you want Mike10 posted instructions on how to modify the older ones to use chain case oil , I did it and it was time well spent.
What it amounts to is removing the side cover and taking out the bottom front bolt from the gear reduction case and replacing it with a bolt from a ls160(they have a thru hole for oil to pass thru) . Then drill a new fill hole in the side cover 2 1/2 inches higher than the old one. Take a 1/2 inch pipe coupling and cut in half and weld over the new fill hole.
That's the best I can remember it but you can look it up in Mikes past posts. If I did it again I would drill the new hole a half inch higher as the oil never came up to the old fill point. I also went to the shop and got hydraulic half couplings and did not buy new bolts but drilled the old ones out in the lathe.
You will never have to worry about the gears running without oil if you do this change.
I will look in the operators manual in the morn for the drain info. I have the right operators manual and there are some differences from the 160/170 service book but have not found many.
The hole should be drilled 2 1/2" above the bottom edge of the side plate. That should put the fill hole about 1/2" above the original fill plug.
I can't find anything in the book about how to drain the hyd oil Delly, unless it's contaminated I'd hook a hose on the aux coupler and pump it out at idle just till it spits a little but that's up to you.
Mike, I did drill mine 2 1/2 up but when I look in the original filler I don't see oil but at any rate I know the gears are always getting oil now.
Jerry, something is not right. The new plug should be higher than the original plug. Did you measure up from the bottom of the chain case or the removable side plate. The measurement should be made on the removable side plate.
Hi Mike, I went and measured and the center of the new hole is 2 1/2 up from the lower edge of the removable side cover. Snowing here now but tomorrow I will put the machine in the garage and double check to see if oil is up to the elbow fill on the reduction case when it is up to the new hole. Maybe I should have gone 2.5 up to the lower edge of the new hole instead of 2.5 to the center. I can set up the laser transit tomorrow and figure out what the height is of both. maybe also I did not give it long enough time for the oil to flow through the bolt, I know I waited a while then poured a couple more quarts in the elbow fill. More tomorrow.
Delly, this is the gearbox filler, it does not show the right hand one but it is there where the #1 points.
You did it right if the center of the hole is 2 1/2" above the bottom of the removable plate. The photo looks like you did it right. If you do not have oil to original plug you are definitely low on oil. The oil should come out of the new hole for the new plug. I am thinking it takes close to 3 gal to fill to the new level.
Thx guys, but that seems a little outa my league as for modifying that gear fill, question where does the gear oil go when's its low or empty? I've never had any leaks etc.. Isn't it easier to just keep checking and filling it up at every oil change service? Jerry do I fill it to the top? Thx again for the info..
I think it leaks into the chain case. I was checking mine every month or so and always had to add to the one side at least. Big pain trying to get much gear oil to flow down that little elbow. Even with a suction gun. There is a air vent toward the top of the case you can take out to make it go easier. You fill it up to the elbow also.
You can do it cheaply by removing the side plates , buying the 160 bolts for $10 each and having the pipe coupling welded on at a shop. Should not cost more than 50-75 for the whole thing even if you have them drill the hole. Plus while you have the tire/tires off you can grease the wheel bearings which don't get the attention they should either. Then pump out your hydro oil and use that in the chain case.
It's amazing they don't have a drain to change the hydrolic oil, by not having this they are basically telling the owner you don't have to service this just change the filter on the back and top off..and maybe there right, but I can't see how when the oil you use is motor oil 10w30 weight and it has to break down over time I would think. I know the bobcats have drains and they use a heavy hydrolic oil , not a conventional oil used in regular motors..
Jerry by doing this mod , your basically gonna now fill it and check it in the new bolt you welded that's 2.5" higher then the one on the side of the machine now, right? Am I reading into this correctly? If so why use the 160 bolt? Is it cause they no longer sell the original?
To answer for Jerry. The "center" of the new hole will be 2 1/2" above the bottom edge of the removable plate, not 2 1/2" above the original plug. The reason for the drilled bolt is to allow oil to enter the gearbox. Without the drilled bolt there is no way for oil to enter. The reason for raising the check plug is to allow more oil to enter the gearbox. ------------------------------------------------------ Once you try and check or add oil to the gearboxes, you will see this is a better way. The last LS machines came with this update. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Even if you had a drain plug on the reservoir, you would only get about 1/2 of the oil out because of the oil trapped in the hydro system, hydraulic lines and cylinder, cooler, ect. What I do is attach a hose to the bottom of one of the lift cylinders. If you look at the lift cylinder you will see a plug sticking out to the side of the cylinder. Start the engine an use your foot pedal to pump the oil out. Stop as soon as you see and hear coming out with the oil or the alarm sounds. You do not want to run the hydro pumps any longer than necessary. Before removing the plug make sure the boom is all the way down so there is no hyd pressure in the boom circuit. I usually raise the boom all the way up, shut the engine off, turn the key back on, do NOT start, and use the foot pedal to lower the boom all the way down to the ground. This will help remove some of the trapped oil.
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