LX-885 Starter Issues

[Arbo]

Long story, but here it goes...After lengthy trouble shooting, I have discovered that the starter on my 885 needs a rebuild. However, I also discovered that the wire that is to trip the soelenoind that is mounted to the starter is not going hot when the key is turned to the start position. My theory is that whatever was wrong in the starter has blown a fuse or tripped a relay. Which one is the question???
What I know...
The soelenoid on the firewall clicks when the key is turned to start.
The seat switch activates the overhead panel.
The seat belt switch activates and turns off the seatbelt light when the belt is fastened.
Flipping the service/run switch makes no difference in volatge to the trip wire to the starter.
The starter is currently out of the machine and at the repair shop. I got it out last night, and did a bench test. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it will not. I have alot of faith in the rebuild shop. They have done work for me in the past with very good results.

 

[Mike10]

The answer is probably neither. You need to start at the solenoid on the firewall. It is the one next to the side panel you remove from the engine. Have someone turn the key to the start position and see if you have power to one of the small wires. One of the small wires is the ground and the other is the wire that energizes the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position.
If you have power there then check the two large posts. One is hot at all times and the other should have 12V when the key is turned to the start position and the small wire energizes the solenoid.
The wire goes from this solenoid directly to the plug in wire on the starter solenoid.
The click you hear may be the preheat solenoid and not the starter solenoid.

 

[Arbo]

The answer is probably neither. You need to start at the solenoid on the firewall. It is the one next to the side panel you remove from the engine. Have someone turn the key to the start position and see if you have power to one of the small wires. One of the small wires is the ground and the other is the wire that energizes the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position.
If you have power there then check the two large posts. One is hot at all times and the other should have 12V when the key is turned to the start position and the small wire energizes the solenoid.
The wire goes from this solenoid directly to the plug in wire on the starter solenoid.
The click you hear may be the preheat solenoid and not the starter solenoid.

Thanks Mike. I'll start there when I get the starter reinstalled, and all the wiring hooked back up. I did not pull the covers from the soelenoids yet. I held my hand on them while my daughter turned the key, and I thought that both were clicking, but that may not be the case. Just to clarify...The starter soelenoid is the one on the left if I am facing the rear of the machine? I sure wish the Loader booms were up :>(

 

[Mike10]

Thanks Mike. I'll start there when I get the starter reinstalled, and all the wiring hooked back up. I did not pull the covers from the soelenoids yet. I held my hand on them while my daughter turned the key, and I thought that both were clicking, but that may not be the case. Just to clarify...The starter soelenoid is the one on the left if I am facing the rear of the machine? I sure wish the Loader booms were up :>(

Standing at the back of the machine facing forward, it is the one on the left. Don't let the clicking fool you, they can click and still not make contact inside.

 

[Arbo]

Standing at the back of the machine facing forward, it is the one on the left. Don't let the clicking fool you, they can click and still not make contact inside.

Update...
The soelenoid is actually working. I think that my daughter was probably NOT turning the key quite far enough.
I did not get it started yet. The starter is cranking fine. It seems that my new battery may have a fault in it. I need to do a load test on it, but that will entail going back to the store to have it checked. I get about ten seconds of crank time, and it acts like dead battery again. Using jumper cables gives the same results. I have a set of four gauge cables, so I'm pretty certain that they are good.
Still need to figure out why I'm having the voltage delivery problems. Am seriously considering replacing the terminal ends on the battery cables.
I had the fuel system disconnected to get the starter out, and need more crank time to get the thing to fire in this cold weather. I may buy one of the lower radiator hose heaters so I can warm the engine up. The engine will smoke and cough occasionally, but not enough to actually keep running.
Any more ideas to look into would be greatly appreciated

 

[jerry]

Update...
The soelenoid is actually working. I think that my daughter was probably NOT turning the key quite far enough.
I did not get it started yet. The starter is cranking fine. It seems that my new battery may have a fault in it. I need to do a load test on it, but that will entail going back to the store to have it checked. I get about ten seconds of crank time, and it acts like dead battery again. Using jumper cables gives the same results. I have a set of four gauge cables, so I'm pretty certain that they are good.
Still need to figure out why I'm having the voltage delivery problems. Am seriously considering replacing the terminal ends on the battery cables.
I had the fuel system disconnected to get the starter out, and need more crank time to get the thing to fire in this cold weather. I may buy one of the lower radiator hose heaters so I can warm the engine up. The engine will smoke and cough occasionally, but not enough to actually keep running.
Any more ideas to look into would be greatly appreciated

Next time you try it do not just turn the key to start once, do it repeatedly at least half dozen times. When the starter interlock relay on my 665 went bad it would not energize the starter but I found that if I tried it repeatedly it would kick in. Although it would start in service position so probably different problem.

 

[Arbo]

Next time you try it do not just turn the key to start once, do it repeatedly at least half dozen times. When the starter interlock relay on my 665 went bad it would not energize the starter but I found that if I tried it repeatedly it would kick in. Although it would start in service position so probably different problem.

Another update... I got it running. Cleaned the terminal ends on the battery cables more thoroughly, and that really helped! There was a loose fitting on the injection pump that was sucking air. Once that was snugged up, she fired right up! Just wanted to say thanks for the advice.