LS180 Losing power gradually, now won't start

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Wow, I think I'd question that. I've got a older non-electronic Ford V8 diesel with a mechanical (Stanadyne) injection pump and standard fee for a pump rebuild and calibration if I remove it, take it in to an injection shop is right at $600.
They said basically everything in the pump needed to be replaced. Lots of rust. Oh well, now it works at least! I'm running into a small electrical issue now. It was running fine for the past day, drove it around the yard fine. After I did a couple of fast spins, it died like it lost fuel. I cranked a bit but no start. Let it sit for a few min. Put it in service mode and it started. Shut it off, switched to run position, and it started fine. Fast forward to today, it won't start in run position. It cranks, but the fuel solenoid isn't getting power. The EIC reports 0v battery voltage. The seat switch works fine (EIC lights up when I sit down), and the seat belt switch works fine (the seat belt light turns off when I put my seat belt on). It will run in service mode, although the EIC turns off while it's running. Any ideas? I'm currently searching the service manual for ideas, namely how it measures battery voltage since I think something is messed up there and it's making things weird down the line.
 
They said basically everything in the pump needed to be replaced. Lots of rust. Oh well, now it works at least! I'm running into a small electrical issue now. It was running fine for the past day, drove it around the yard fine. After I did a couple of fast spins, it died like it lost fuel. I cranked a bit but no start. Let it sit for a few min. Put it in service mode and it started. Shut it off, switched to run position, and it started fine. Fast forward to today, it won't start in run position. It cranks, but the fuel solenoid isn't getting power. The EIC reports 0v battery voltage. The seat switch works fine (EIC lights up when I sit down), and the seat belt switch works fine (the seat belt light turns off when I put my seat belt on). It will run in service mode, although the EIC turns off while it's running. Any ideas? I'm currently searching the service manual for ideas, namely how it measures battery voltage since I think something is messed up there and it's making things weird down the line.
Also, all cab and engine bay fuses are fine.
 
They said basically everything in the pump needed to be replaced. Lots of rust. Oh well, now it works at least! I'm running into a small electrical issue now. It was running fine for the past day, drove it around the yard fine. After I did a couple of fast spins, it died like it lost fuel. I cranked a bit but no start. Let it sit for a few min. Put it in service mode and it started. Shut it off, switched to run position, and it started fine. Fast forward to today, it won't start in run position. It cranks, but the fuel solenoid isn't getting power. The EIC reports 0v battery voltage. The seat switch works fine (EIC lights up when I sit down), and the seat belt switch works fine (the seat belt light turns off when I put my seat belt on). It will run in service mode, although the EIC turns off while it's running. Any ideas? I'm currently searching the service manual for ideas, namely how it measures battery voltage since I think something is messed up there and it's making things weird down the line.
Make sure the auxillary lever is centered. If it isn't it will not start.
 
Make sure the auxillary lever is centered. If it isn't it will not start.
Turned out to be the 5a ignition fuse. I forgot that I had replaced it with a mini blade fuse cause that's all I had at the time, and the mini blade got knocked out.
 
Turned out to be the 5a ignition fuse. I forgot that I had replaced it with a mini blade fuse cause that's all I had at the time, and the mini blade got knocked out.
To anyone that has to take off their injection pump in the future, here's a picture of the tools I made to time the engine/pump. I don't really have metal working tools, at least not precision ones, so I made the piston position tool and timing pointer out of wood. The gear puller doesn't have to be fancy, but the holes need to be laid correctly. This is just to hopefully alleviate anxiety of those that I have to do this in the future. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Nuwc2mnoPEqK76kv7
 
To anyone that has to take off their injection pump in the future, here's a picture of the tools I made to time the engine/pump. I don't really have metal working tools, at least not precision ones, so I made the piston position tool and timing pointer out of wood. The gear puller doesn't have to be fancy, but the holes need to be laid correctly. This is just to hopefully alleviate anxiety of those that I have to do this in the future. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Nuwc2mnoPEqK76kv7
Nice job, shows that you can do anything if you set your mind to it and use differenta materials.
 
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