L555 with no Engine Project

[mrbb]

I would think a 20 hp engine will be lacking a bunch of HP to move a machine of this size, and lift abilities,
I would guess OEM, it was more like double the HP your engine now has
but I would think using what you got at least can confirm if things work, before buying something larger to drop in it!

you mentioned your electric motor and compared things to a golf cart
well a golf cart only weight a fraction as to what this skid steer does, so, thats a big difference on what it can move with gusto!, HAHA!

 

[Dragos28]

I would think a 20 hp engine will be lacking a bunch of HP to move a machine of this size, and lift abilities,
I would guess OEM, it was more like double the HP your engine now has
but I would think using what you got at least can confirm if things work, before buying something larger to drop in it!

you mentioned your electric motor and compared things to a golf cart
well a golf cart only weight a fraction as to what this skid steer does, so, thats a big difference on what it can move with gusto!, HAHA!

Yeah i cant think of any other way to confirm if the hydraulics function.
i'm also thinking that even if its half the horsepower, i believe it had 45hp... that it should be able to do some work. but if it does prove to be worth it i can look into a bigger engine or motor... just dont want to come out of pocket when i have that engine there, i spent $25 on linkage to connect the engine to the hydraulic pump, a $20 plate to mount the engine on... other than that i'll have to spend some $$ on hydraulic fluid and i'm hoping thats it to be able to test...

 

[mrbb]

ODDS are this model machine doesn't use hydraulic fluid, it most likely uses 10w30 oil(in what ever form its spec's called for)
as back in the yrs this was made most machines didn't use hydraulic fluid, they used oil, the same the motor used, to keep things simple , or that I think was the thought,
so no one would mix the fluids with wrong type, they just ran the same in both motor and hydraulic system!

, any local NH shop will stock the correct oil, over the yrs I know NH witched brands several times, from making there own(or at least branded in there name) to multi different brand names.

but its the spec's that matter

Messicak's can for sure tell you correct oil, in a email or call, if you asked them!

so a small heads up, if your looking to use right fluid!
bought in bulk I don't think there is much if any costs difference, might even be cheaper pending what brand you use!

 

[Dragos28]

I think mrbb may have answered my question, but im missing a piece of the puzzle back here. Maybe the connections went to the engine and ill have to fabricate a hose or a pump to circulate the oil..

 

[st0ck1ng]

ODDS are this model machine doesn't use hydraulic fluid, it most likely uses 10w30 oil(in what ever form its spec's called for)
as back in the yrs this was made most machines didn't use hydraulic fluid, they used oil, the same the motor used, to keep things simple , or that I think was the thought,
so no one would mix the fluids with wrong type, they just ran the same in both motor and hydraulic system!

, any local NH shop will stock the correct oil, over the yrs I know NH witched brands several times, from making there own(or at least branded in there name) to multi different brand names.

but its the spec's that matter

Messicak's can for sure tell you correct oil, in a email or call, if you asked them!

so a small heads up, if your looking to use right fluid!
bought in bulk I don't think there is much if any costs difference, might even be cheaper pending what brand you use!

concur....almost positive this will be 10-30 for hydraulics.

Also verifiable, once you have your owners/service manuals available.

5 gallon buckets are usually the cheapest way to go, OR, if you have a oil change facility (ie Jiffy Lube, etc) that will let you pull in on a trailer and only have to pay for the oil to fill, could be an option.

I have not had any issues running the cheapest 10-30 I could find for hydraulics, keep the good stuff for the engine.

As I recall hydraulic system alone is in the 20 gallon range capacity.

Your machine, having set with open lines etc. for some time, air in the system would be my primary concern, may want to get some advice as to whether or not you need to "bleed" the lines and if so how.

 

[Dragos28]

concur....almost positive this will be 10-30 for hydraulics.

Also verifiable, once you have your owners/service manuals available.

5 gallon buckets are usually the cheapest way to go, OR, if you have a oil change facility (ie Jiffy Lube, etc) that will let you pull in on a trailer and only have to pay for the oil to fill, could be an option.

I have not had any issues running the cheapest 10-30 I could find for hydraulics, keep the good stuff for the engine.

As I recall hydraulic system alone is in the 20 gallon range capacity.

Your machine, having set with open lines etc. for some time, air in the system would be my primary concern, may want to get some advice as to whether or not you need to "bleed" the lines and if so how.

Thanks! I'm hoping the service manual will have some information on how to bleed the system.. and i'll need to find a hose to complete the loop. i'm assuming that the hydraulic pumps are enough to circulate the oil through the system without the original engine

 

[Topper1]

I can confirm. NH & Case both spec low detergent (gas engine) 10w30 for hydraulics with the addition of hto for wear protection.
Edit: they also spec other grades for extreme temps. I run a 5w40 synthetic for extreme heat & cold.

 

[Dragos28]

Redneck lathe

 

[Dragos28]

Not bad

 

[Dragos28]

Threw a weld around it

 

[Dragos28]

 

[Dragos28]

Well I found the major leak I'm just having a hard time getting this hard line off.
And I'm pretty certain this engine is far too little but I want to make sure everything else functions properly before I go and invest in a bigger engine

 

[Dragos28]

so the bolt that goes into the engine shaft, it was really long. as you can see in the video where i was turning it. i had it with 8 spacers lol
i went to lowes and of course they do not have an M8 bolt 6" long....

so i did what any one would do. i cut this bolt down, cut the head off another bolt and welded it on.

 

[Dragos28]

This is a hard line I'm referring to I have no idea how to get it offHard line

 

[Dragos28]

ok, that was a major PITA. i went to harbor freight and northern tools, bought a large size impact set, crows foot, offset wrenches and service wrenches. and sure enough none of them fit.
i wound up cutting the hard line as close to the bottom as i could, put a socket on it and with a 3' cheater bar i was able to break it loose.
replaced the line with a new hose.
and now the pos engine isnt starting anymore. from what i gather its not getting spark.. ugh.
when it does crank over the wheels spin. the left spin in reverse and the right spin forward. so i'm certain that has to do with the neutralizers..

 

[Dragos28]

Current situation

 

[Dragos28]

So the foot pedals on the left move freely, and while my son was cranking the engine the boom did move a tiny bit. The foot pedals on the right are seized up and do not move at all. Any suggestions on how to break it free?

 

[st0ck1ng]

I have the same pedal set up.

From what I can see on mine, the shaft from the right pedal runs through the shaft for the left pedal (left side of each).

With the left pedal moving freely, would think you are rusted at the "bushing" on the right side of the right pedal.

Further suggest following the linkage for the right pedal to where it engages the solenoid.

At any connection points use a small amount of penetrating oil a couple of times a day and "gently" tap the top and bottom of the pedal with a 2lbs (or so) hammer a few times every time you hit it with the penetrant. (i.e. spray all connection points, tap-top; tap-bottom, tap-top; tap-bottom, tap-top; tap-bottom, or something similar)

Hope that makes sense.

Good luck.

 

[Dragos28]

I have the same pedal set up.

From what I can see on mine, the shaft from the right pedal runs through the shaft for the left pedal (left side of each).

With the left pedal moving freely, would think you are rusted at the "bushing" on the right side of the right pedal.

Further suggest following the linkage for the right pedal to where it engages the solenoid.

At any connection points use a small amount of penetrating oil a couple of times a day and "gently" tap the top and bottom of the pedal with a 2lbs (or so) hammer a few times every time you hit it with the penetrant. (i.e. spray all connection points, tap-top; tap-bottom, tap-top; tap-bottom, tap-top; tap-bottom, or something similar)

Hope that makes sense.

Good luck.

Thanks! Ill give that a try!

 

[Dragos28]

I picked up this little Vermeer skid steer it has a three-cylinder Kubota diesel engine in it so I have two thoughts maybe more one is fix this up it's missing the hydraulic pump and use it second thought is pull the Kubota out of there put that in the New Holland and put my little V-Twin into the Vermeer