just bought my first M600

[eboucher.6]

Hi everyone, newbie to the world of skid steers, and I just purchased my first machine. I managed to pick up a M600 for 500$ and it seems like its in ok shape minus a few issues. working front to back - the bad - 4 dry rotted tires, but, all but 1 hold air. both bucket cylinders are pitted and the seals leak the wiring is pretty skanky the alternator belt and main drive belt have seen better days the starter was drawing a lot of current and had one hell of a dead spot on it it has taken a few days to get the motor to turn over and have reliable spark, it was a combination of worn points and poor timing. I had pulled apart the fuel pump and it was caked with what I believe to be aluminum oxide.( it sat there with fuel in the system for 12 years) - the good - I only paid 500$ for it. the lift cylinders are in great shape compression checks out on all cylinders pulled the starter apart and clean it up and now she turns 10 times better, with no dead spot. after getting spark, and manually filling the carb, the motor fires for about 4 seconds and dies. with no weird sounds... at least I know the engine will fire. with all that said I do have some questions, and I hope you all can help me out on this. where it will run for a short burst if I manually fill the fuel bowl and then dies. is it safe to assume the fuel pump is not providing the carb with fuel and it dies when the fuel present is exhausted? i have read that this carb can be gravity fed, i will be trying this later on in the week to see if i can eliminate the pump for the system but any input would be appreciated. so far the only new parts that have been invested into the machine are a new battery, 4 new plugs, and a new set of wires. i will post up progress pics later on.

 

[6brnorma]

Compression check would be in order.

 

[mark18mwm]

I agree with 6brnorma, it would be good to know the condition of the engine before sticking a ton of money into it. As for the fuel pump, go with a electric pump. There are more guys with electric pumps than the mechanical pump. Just try to get one with low pressure, like 2-4 psi or there about. Most aftermarket pumps from a auto parts store are 6-8 psi. ask them if they don't have one they can order one at any parts store I know of. Great score for $500!! Worst case scenario you can part it out and at least double your money. Take a look at the "driven sheave", that is the drive belt pulley on the shaft under the seat. Those can get expensive to fix if its worn out from not being greased. There is a grease fitting hiding in the spring on the sheave that gets overlooked often when people grease the machine, so wear is sort of common on the sheave. If your motor and sheave are good you got it made.

 

[eboucher.6]

I agree with 6brnorma, it would be good to know the condition of the engine before sticking a ton of money into it. As for the fuel pump, go with a electric pump. There are more guys with electric pumps than the mechanical pump. Just try to get one with low pressure, like 2-4 psi or there about. Most aftermarket pumps from a auto parts store are 6-8 psi. ask them if they don't have one they can order one at any parts store I know of. Great score for $500!! Worst case scenario you can part it out and at least double your money. Take a look at the "driven sheave", that is the drive belt pulley on the shaft under the seat. Those can get expensive to fix if its worn out from not being greased. There is a grease fitting hiding in the spring on the sheave that gets overlooked often when people grease the machine, so wear is sort of common on the sheave. If your motor and sheave are good you got it made.

well, to my surprise I got the damn thing running last night. I filled a bottle with fuel and gravity fed the carb and she fired after a few seconds. it ran pretty rough and stalled a few times until the manifold warmed up and it seemed to idle alright. I did have the carb apart so I know the adjustment screw is off a bit. I also believe when rebuilding the fuel pump the top end was clocked when reassembled, it was puking fuel out of the fuel bowl when I disconnected everything. I am going to reassemble it tonight and give it a second go. as far as compression, all cylinders are hovering around 70 +/- 5% while I let it run I observed that the governor seemed to function, and I played with the sheave adjustment. but I could only get it to close about 3/8 of an inch. I would suspect this may be due to air in the system / lack of pressure / needing to be greased? with that said, it was a glorious night to hear it run, but I was soon bit in the ass by the gas tank... I cut a hole in the side of the take to clean it out from the 10 years of sitting with stale fuel and I am going to have a fun time on my hands... it looks like bat cave in there with a junk load of rust and what I would assume is fuel deposits hanging down from the top. not to mention the draw tube is completely clogged. since I need a new fuel cap, I am going to incorporate a new draw tube into the fuel cap with a fuel sock on the end to catch any big stuff and do an inline fuel filter. I figure if the suck gets plugged up with sediment I can just pull it out and clean it off.

 

[eboucher.6]

well, to my surprise I got the damn thing running last night. I filled a bottle with fuel and gravity fed the carb and she fired after a few seconds. it ran pretty rough and stalled a few times until the manifold warmed up and it seemed to idle alright. I did have the carb apart so I know the adjustment screw is off a bit. I also believe when rebuilding the fuel pump the top end was clocked when reassembled, it was puking fuel out of the fuel bowl when I disconnected everything. I am going to reassemble it tonight and give it a second go. as far as compression, all cylinders are hovering around 70 +/- 5% while I let it run I observed that the governor seemed to function, and I played with the sheave adjustment. but I could only get it to close about 3/8 of an inch. I would suspect this may be due to air in the system / lack of pressure / needing to be greased? with that said, it was a glorious night to hear it run, but I was soon bit in the ass by the gas tank... I cut a hole in the side of the take to clean it out from the 10 years of sitting with stale fuel and I am going to have a fun time on my hands... it looks like bat cave in there with a junk load of rust and what I would assume is fuel deposits hanging down from the top. not to mention the draw tube is completely clogged. since I need a new fuel cap, I am going to incorporate a new draw tube into the fuel cap with a fuel sock on the end to catch any big stuff and do an inline fuel filter. I figure if the suck gets plugged up with sediment I can just pull it out and clean it off.

so i tooled on the machine a little bit more tonight, it seems like it wants to start up and idle better now that i have been running it more often. now that i am happy with the fact it runs its time to start looking into the rest of the issues. i started playing with the control for the adjustable sheave and it barely moves. i popped the left cover off ( as seen from sitting in the seat) and it was all milky as if it were aerated and contaminated with water. i also noticed it was about 4 or 5 inches below the lower of the two fill plugs? i would assume that is what those plugs are. tomorrow i plan on draining the case and cleaning it all out topping it off with fresh oil. hopefully there was no pressure in the hydraulics due to air in the system and its not the pump that's shot. i had switched around the fuel pump as a sanity check and it still dosent do anything, so electric pump here i come...

 

[eboucher.6]

so i tooled on the machine a little bit more tonight, it seems like it wants to start up and idle better now that i have been running it more often. now that i am happy with the fact it runs its time to start looking into the rest of the issues. i started playing with the control for the adjustable sheave and it barely moves. i popped the left cover off ( as seen from sitting in the seat) and it was all milky as if it were aerated and contaminated with water. i also noticed it was about 4 or 5 inches below the lower of the two fill plugs? i would assume that is what those plugs are. tomorrow i plan on draining the case and cleaning it all out topping it off with fresh oil. hopefully there was no pressure in the hydraulics due to air in the system and its not the pump that's shot. i had switched around the fuel pump as a sanity check and it still dosent do anything, so electric pump here i come...

So I went out last night and bought an electric fuel pump, and it works fantastic. once I managed to keep the machine running I adjusted the timing and she runs great. minus exhaust coming from under each head. but head gaskets are on their way already. short of a broken bolt it should be an easy fix. I added an extra 6 or so gallons to the hydraulic reservoir and played around with the bucket and lift cylinders for a bit and they are a little shaky but due to a height restriction I cant exercise the rams fully. the only one I cant get to move yet is the adjustable sheave. Keeping with tradition, every night has brought more ups than downs. but at least its moving forward.

 

[mmsllc]

So I went out last night and bought an electric fuel pump, and it works fantastic. once I managed to keep the machine running I adjusted the timing and she runs great. minus exhaust coming from under each head. but head gaskets are on their way already. short of a broken bolt it should be an easy fix. I added an extra 6 or so gallons to the hydraulic reservoir and played around with the bucket and lift cylinders for a bit and they are a little shaky but due to a height restriction I cant exercise the rams fully. the only one I cant get to move yet is the adjustable sheave. Keeping with tradition, every night has brought more ups than downs. but at least its moving forward.

Keep thinking positive. You are doing what other guys only talk about doing. When it seems easy to quit, just think of the first hand pride you will have one you get her just right. Human phycology states that we are all our own worst enemy. Using that as food for thought, keep fixing her & that will build your confidence. Just take it one day at a time!

 

[eboucher.6]

Keep thinking positive. You are doing what other guys only talk about doing. When it seems easy to quit, just think of the first hand pride you will have one you get her just right. Human phycology states that we are all our own worst enemy. Using that as food for thought, keep fixing her & that will build your confidence. Just take it one day at a time!

ok, so i tried the html editor and it prevents me from typing anything, let alone upload pictures. made some headway on the machine today. i had two wires crossed on the distributor and its running better. i also discovered that i literally have no exhaust manifold gaskets left... needless to say those are on order. i was also running into an issue where the throttle was unresponsive and seemed to run at a high RPM. i was under the assumption i had an air leak. come to find out the throttle was hitting the manifold, essentially only allowing it to swing between 100% and 90% ish. does anyone else have this issue where the carb linkage hits the intake? are you guys running a spacer between the two?

 

[eboucher.6]

ok, so i tried the html editor and it prevents me from typing anything, let alone upload pictures. made some headway on the machine today. i had two wires crossed on the distributor and its running better. i also discovered that i literally have no exhaust manifold gaskets left... needless to say those are on order. i was also running into an issue where the throttle was unresponsive and seemed to run at a high RPM. i was under the assumption i had an air leak. come to find out the throttle was hitting the manifold, essentially only allowing it to swing between 100% and 90% ish. does anyone else have this issue where the carb linkage hits the intake? are you guys running a spacer between the two?

Making progress on the machine. I had it driving around the yard for a bit last weekend. It still has a slight random backfire but I think it may still be off timing a bit. My next question is, does anyone have a picture on how to hook up the throttle and governor? As I got the machine. There is a rod and spring going from carb to throttle. And a linkage that goes from hole 10 on the governor to the carb. With multiple spring there is no real control over the throttle plate . Any help would be appreciated on this one.

 

[Bob5944]

Making progress on the machine. I had it driving around the yard for a bit last weekend. It still has a slight random backfire but I think it may still be off timing a bit. My next question is, does anyone have a picture on how to hook up the throttle and governor? As I got the machine. There is a rod and spring going from carb to throttle. And a linkage that goes from hole 10 on the governor to the carb. With multiple spring there is no real control over the throttle plate . Any help would be appreciated on this one.

About time for a couple of pics or video! Hope you don't run into any major issues as you bring this one back to life.

 

[jerry]

About time for a couple of pics or video! Hope you don't run into any major issues as you bring this one back to life.

If you haven't already, take the points and the plate they are mounted on out of the distributor and make sure the mechanical spark advance in the bottom of the distributor is not rusted up solid. It does happen.

 

[rodbuilder]

You're wasting your hard-earned money. After you spend the money to make it do what it's supposed to do it won't get anything done anyway!!! You should have wasted your money on a decent 743, or any other diesel loader, because the gassers are nothing but boat anchors. They are impossible to sell and don't have the capacity to lift diddly squat. Running a gas engine at 3000-3500 rpm's for hours is pure hell on them. If it isn't diesel it's not worth looking at.

 

[mark18mwm]

You're wasting your hard-earned money. After you spend the money to make it do what it's supposed to do it won't get anything done anyway!!! You should have wasted your money on a decent 743, or any other diesel loader, because the gassers are nothing but boat anchors. They are impossible to sell and don't have the capacity to lift diddly squat. Running a gas engine at 3000-3500 rpm's for hours is pure hell on them. If it isn't diesel it's not worth looking at.

Well, as you have said on here over and over that's your opinion. The 600-610 series has their place to whether you admit or not. as far as being a "gasser" I can go out and start my gas 600 at -23 to -30 degrees with out bringing it in or plugging it in. Try that with a diesel. I never have to worry about fuel jelling. As for size and power, I push and lift a 8 foot snow bucket when I plow, in northern WI, that is often. Just by it's smaller size i can get into places many diesels cant get into narrow places or places with low ceilings. Due to it's light weight I can haul it on a very light duty car trailer and not a heavier trailer. I have had my boss hire me to do things his New Holland 160 couldn't do because of it's size. The 600-610 has the ability to freewheel with the engine turned off, no hydro units can do that without releasing the drive motors some how. I could go on but I think you get my point. I respect you have your opinion but it seems you like to knock others who think exactly like you. Now that we know your opinion here is mine, you seem to like being a axx hole. This in't the first post you have had belittling those who have something different than you and I don't want to hear the negative crap anymore. If you aren't paying for someone else's damned machine what do you care he runs? Sorry if I offended anyone else, I don't even want to offend him, I'm just tired of him whining about nobody else's equipment is any good all the time.

 

[Tazza]

Well, as you have said on here over and over that's your opinion. The 600-610 series has their place to whether you admit or not. as far as being a "gasser" I can go out and start my gas 600 at -23 to -30 degrees with out bringing it in or plugging it in. Try that with a diesel. I never have to worry about fuel jelling. As for size and power, I push and lift a 8 foot snow bucket when I plow, in northern WI, that is often. Just by it's smaller size i can get into places many diesels cant get into narrow places or places with low ceilings. Due to it's light weight I can haul it on a very light duty car trailer and not a heavier trailer. I have had my boss hire me to do things his New Holland 160 couldn't do because of it's size. The 600-610 has the ability to freewheel with the engine turned off, no hydro units can do that without releasing the drive motors some how. I could go on but I think you get my point. I respect you have your opinion but it seems you like to knock others who think exactly like you. Now that we know your opinion here is mine, you seem to like being a axx hole. This in't the first post you have had belittling those who have something different than you and I don't want to hear the negative crap anymore. If you aren't paying for someone else's damned machine what do you care he runs? Sorry if I offended anyone else, I don't even want to offend him, I'm just tired of him whining about nobody else's equipment is any good all the time.

Each machine has it's good and bad points. Sure, gassers/petrol engines do use more fuel per hour, i like your point about that they will start no matter how cold it is. Diesel engines seem to do more hours before needing a rebuild.
Old machines may seem like a waste of money to some, but to others it's money well soent. Sure, some may feel the money spent on it isn't worth it, but if you get a machine and repair it your self, you know it's done right and it will potentially out last you.
Say you buy an older machine for 4k, spend another 4k to repair it and everything is spot on, you have an 8k machine that is is top shape. Or you could spend 8k on a newer machine that may have issues you missed and it could cost you 4k to repair too. Where do you draw the line?
The older machines have the advantage of no computers to worry about, simple wiring, generally easier to repair.

 

[mmsllc]

Each machine has it's good and bad points. Sure, gassers/petrol engines do use more fuel per hour, i like your point about that they will start no matter how cold it is. Diesel engines seem to do more hours before needing a rebuild.
Old machines may seem like a waste of money to some, but to others it's money well soent. Sure, some may feel the money spent on it isn't worth it, but if you get a machine and repair it your self, you know it's done right and it will potentially out last you.
Say you buy an older machine for 4k, spend another 4k to repair it and everything is spot on, you have an 8k machine that is is top shape. Or you could spend 8k on a newer machine that may have issues you missed and it could cost you 4k to repair too. Where do you draw the line?
The older machines have the advantage of no computers to worry about, simple wiring, generally easier to repair.

I think that you are doing something really therapeutic for most guys = fixing something that would otherwise rust away. I don't know much about your model, but applaud your progress in restoring it to operating condition. I would suggest replacing ALL fluids & filters on your machine, if you have not done so already. With that tid bit said, keep on wrenching! Before you know it, you could be making money with it. ROCK ON!!

 

[Jcrawford05]

I think that you are doing something really therapeutic for most guys = fixing something that would otherwise rust away. I don't know much about your model, but applaud your progress in restoring it to operating condition. I would suggest replacing ALL fluids & filters on your machine, if you have not done so already. With that tid bit said, keep on wrenching! Before you know it, you could be making money with it. ROCK ON!!

sounds like a good project! 500$ is a steal in my opinion! I just restored a M600 if you do a search check it out lots of pictures

 

[gearbox]

sounds like a good project! 500$ is a steal in my opinion! I just restored a M600 if you do a search check it out lots of pictures

Your bobcat dealer will be able to print parts pictures . the engine clutch is quite simple . There are 2 o rings $ 2.00 each from bobcat if they are bad and the weep holes are pluged you will get oil on the belt and it will slip when you turn . If you are haaving any problem always look at the belt when turning and see if it stops . Do not tighten the steering clutches to tight , finger tight works.

 

[eboucher.6]

Your bobcat dealer will be able to print parts pictures . the engine clutch is quite simple . There are 2 o rings $ 2.00 each from bobcat if they are bad and the weep holes are pluged you will get oil on the belt and it will slip when you turn . If you are haaving any problem always look at the belt when turning and see if it stops . Do not tighten the steering clutches to tight , finger tight works.

Hi Guys, thanks for the comments, the machine is coming along nicely. so far here is where I stand: all the hydraulics have been removed and I am waiting on the dealer to get back to me on what seals I need for the control valves and the cylinders. all of my flex lines have been sent out to be made. both head gaskets have been replaced, ( the cylinder walls are in great shape). the whole machine has been sanded down and I am in the process of repainting it. the next thing I need to debate is if I pull the motor to set the timing or if I go old school and just do it by ear. to the individual saying its a waste of money. I plan on using this machine for general yard work and snow removal, so the low lift capacity and slow sleep will not be an issue. and as far as the money wasted. the initial cost of the machine was 500$, and so far between a new batter and random parts like plugs, wires, and hydraulic oil. im only into it for another 220$. baring a complete failure of the motor... I should have a fully functioning machine for under a grand. now to those who have some experience with these motors.... the governor... is it supposed to be spring loaded in one direction when off? or is it supposed to flap in the wind? when the engine is off the throttle plate is not held in any particular position. I will provide picture as soon as I can figure that part out.. thanks ahead of time

 

[eboucher.6]

Hi Guys, thanks for the comments, the machine is coming along nicely. so far here is where I stand: all the hydraulics have been removed and I am waiting on the dealer to get back to me on what seals I need for the control valves and the cylinders. all of my flex lines have been sent out to be made. both head gaskets have been replaced, ( the cylinder walls are in great shape). the whole machine has been sanded down and I am in the process of repainting it. the next thing I need to debate is if I pull the motor to set the timing or if I go old school and just do it by ear. to the individual saying its a waste of money. I plan on using this machine for general yard work and snow removal, so the low lift capacity and slow sleep will not be an issue. and as far as the money wasted. the initial cost of the machine was 500$, and so far between a new batter and random parts like plugs, wires, and hydraulic oil. im only into it for another 220$. baring a complete failure of the motor... I should have a fully functioning machine for under a grand. now to those who have some experience with these motors.... the governor... is it supposed to be spring loaded in one direction when off? or is it supposed to flap in the wind? when the engine is off the throttle plate is not held in any particular position. I will provide picture as soon as I can figure that part out.. thanks ahead of time

I also forgot to add, I had the dealer run my serial number and it came back as a manufacturing date of 1968.