JD 317 Park Brake code

[sph606]

My 317 won't start and has a code F9P8 (Park Brake Output Open or Shorted to Power). There is no power going to the park brake solenoid. The park brake switch according to the diag menu is functioning. Has anyone had any experience with this problem. I have cleaned all ground wires, checked all fuses and checked all visible wires for issues. Stephen in MD.

 

[sph606]

I first talked to the dealer who said to start by replacing the park brake solenoid. I did that and still got the same code. The solenoid cost $87.00. Then I pulled the solenoid switch attached the old solenoid to it and jumped a wire from the battery to test it. The switch functioned as it should with the jumper wire to it. Then I put a test light from the positive side of the battery to one of the two wires feeding the solenoid. The black wire light up so I assume this is the negative wire. Then I switched the test light to the negative side of the battery and touched it to the blue wire and got nothing. Then I turned the ignition switch on & nothing. I tried to put the park brake switch in different positions and still nothing. At this point I am certain that I have no current going to the park brake solenoid. So then I went to the menu and opened the diag, then went to park brake. When I toggled the park brake switch the diag would show it to be open or closed. This indicated to me that the park brake was functioning properly. At this point I have cleaned every wire that was under a nut and taken every plug connection apart and re-connected it. Not having much experience with this sort of problem the only thing I could think to do is replace the park brake switch. The switch cost $42.00 and that was not the problem. Any suggestions on where to go from here ?

 

[Tazza]

I first talked to the dealer who said to start by replacing the park brake solenoid. I did that and still got the same code. The solenoid cost $87.00. Then I pulled the solenoid switch attached the old solenoid to it and jumped a wire from the battery to test it. The switch functioned as it should with the jumper wire to it. Then I put a test light from the positive side of the battery to one of the two wires feeding the solenoid. The black wire light up so I assume this is the negative wire. Then I switched the test light to the negative side of the battery and touched it to the blue wire and got nothing. Then I turned the ignition switch on & nothing. I tried to put the park brake switch in different positions and still nothing. At this point I am certain that I have no current going to the park brake solenoid. So then I went to the menu and opened the diag, then went to park brake. When I toggled the park brake switch the diag would show it to be open or closed. This indicated to me that the park brake was functioning properly. At this point I have cleaned every wire that was under a nut and taken every plug connection apart and re-connected it. Not having much experience with this sort of problem the only thing I could think to do is replace the park brake switch. The switch cost $42.00 and that was not the problem. Any suggestions on where to go from here ?

I'd have thought a fuse but you checked those already, how about a relay?

 

[sph606]

I'd have thought a fuse but you checked those already, how about a relay?

Thanks for your input. Any idea where the park brake relay is located on this machine ? That sounds like the most logical next thing to check.

 

[jerry]

Thanks for your input. Any idea where the park brake relay is located on this machine ? That sounds like the most logical next thing to check.

Looking thru past posts this seems to be a common problem, this link was posted a while ago for a 240 but may help you also. http://www.mediafire.com/?l22595v2mp03t

 

[jerry]

Looking thru past posts this seems to be a common problem, this link was posted a while ago for a 240 but may help you also. http://www.mediafire.com/?l22595v2mp03t

rats, that link should have shown up live , I have no idea what I did wrong.

 

[sph606]

rats, that link should have shown up live , I have no idea what I did wrong.

Yes, I have spent almost every evening for the past two weeks searching and reading every post I could find. I must tell you that I have really learned allot about this machine. But not enough to fix my problem. There are three relays next to the fuse panel. They are all the same so I took them out, cleaned the posts and switched them around. No help. I am not really sure if any of them are for the park brake. I have not yet zeroed in on the exact location for the park brake relay. I think it may be time to call in a mechanic ?

 

[sph606]

Yes, I have spent almost every evening for the past two weeks searching and reading every post I could find. I must tell you that I have really learned allot about this machine. But not enough to fix my problem. There are three relays next to the fuse panel. They are all the same so I took them out, cleaned the posts and switched them around. No help. I am not really sure if any of them are for the park brake. I have not yet zeroed in on the exact location for the park brake relay. I think it may be time to call in a mechanic ?

Well I had a mechanic come out and look at my machine. He spent about 45 minutes looking at the engine, wiring , fuses, menu etc. Then he took my manuals and said he would study the code and talk to some people. He came back yesterday with a new board and said this is what is probably wrong. He hooked it up and now four codes show up instead of just one. I really don't think the board is the problem and since it cost $460.00 I really hope it's not. Now the problem seems larger than it was originally. He left somewhat baffled and said he needs to talk to his friend who is a JD Tech. I can switch out parts as good as anyone else but I was hoping he knew more than I do about the machine. Anyway at this point I'm no closer to fixing the issue. I will continue to post up progress in the hopes that this will help someone in the future.

 

[sph606]

Well I had a mechanic come out and look at my machine. He spent about 45 minutes looking at the engine, wiring , fuses, menu etc. Then he took my manuals and said he would study the code and talk to some people. He came back yesterday with a new board and said this is what is probably wrong. He hooked it up and now four codes show up instead of just one. I really don't think the board is the problem and since it cost $460.00 I really hope it's not. Now the problem seems larger than it was originally. He left somewhat baffled and said he needs to talk to his friend who is a JD Tech. I can switch out parts as good as anyone else but I was hoping he knew more than I do about the machine. Anyway at this point I'm no closer to fixing the issue. I will continue to post up progress in the hopes that this will help someone in the future.

Finally got it started. The mechanic came back on a nice warm day last week, about 48 degrees. He started with the fuel system, draining the water separator, priming and bleeding the system. All the while charging the battery. Then he got in the cab and started cranking and I continued to pump the primer. It took a few tries but it finally started. We were then able to put the original board back in and clear the park brake code. Now it starts and runs as it should. The mechanics theory is that water froze in the line and either blocked the fuel or caused air gaps. Since this was the first warm day in months I guess I'll buy that theory. Anyway I didn't really have to buy any parts however I decided to keep the park brake switch that I purchased for a spare. I now know to add conditioner to the fuel system next winter. Thank you guys for your input.

 

[Tazza]

Finally got it started. The mechanic came back on a nice warm day last week, about 48 degrees. He started with the fuel system, draining the water separator, priming and bleeding the system. All the while charging the battery. Then he got in the cab and started cranking and I continued to pump the primer. It took a few tries but it finally started. We were then able to put the original board back in and clear the park brake code. Now it starts and runs as it should. The mechanics theory is that water froze in the line and either blocked the fuel or caused air gaps. Since this was the first warm day in months I guess I'll buy that theory. Anyway I didn't really have to buy any parts however I decided to keep the park brake switch that I purchased for a spare. I now know to add conditioner to the fuel system next winter. Thank you guys for your input.

Glad it's up and running again, cold weather won't just freeze water, but it can make the fuel gel. It may be an idea to run some cold weather fuel just before winter or a fuel additive?