installing cab heater

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753g

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Dec 8, 2005
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Can anyone tell me which lines to tap into for adding a heater to my 753F? I've allready t-ed into both radiator hoses with no avil. btw that was what my dealer said to do... It doesn't make sense to me though having the hot feed tapped in after the thermostat.
 

Tazza

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There should be a small by-pass hose there somewhere, you should tap into this line, as this line has coolant flowing from the time the engine is started, not matter what temperature the coolant is. Usually you remove the by-pass hose and put the 2 heater hoses on there instead, i believe another person on the forum had a problem with orientation of the core, as there was an in-built one way valve, this may be your problem too?
Good luck.
 

753g

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Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
44
There should be a small by-pass hose there somewhere, you should tap into this line, as this line has coolant flowing from the time the engine is started, not matter what temperature the coolant is. Usually you remove the by-pass hose and put the 2 heater hoses on there instead, i believe another person on the forum had a problem with orientation of the core, as there was an in-built one way valve, this may be your problem too?
Good luck.
there is a small bypass hose just below the t-stat housing and it makes a turn downward into what looks like it may be part of the water pump housing. I was thinking about trying that one. This check valve you speak of I haven't hear of it. i'm going to to grill the dealer some more on this topic. Thanks for the reply Tazza
 

Blaine

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Nov 22, 2005
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there is a small bypass hose just below the t-stat housing and it makes a turn downward into what looks like it may be part of the water pump housing. I was thinking about trying that one. This check valve you speak of I haven't hear of it. i'm going to to grill the dealer some more on this topic. Thanks for the reply Tazza
That would be the correct one. As far as the check valve goes. It is just a small valve that only allows fluid to flow one way. If you hook up the lines backwards, the valve will close and you will get no fluid flow and thus no heat. You can check this by simply hooking your garden hose to it. Try flowing it both ways and seeing what happens.
 

753g

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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
44
That would be the correct one. As far as the check valve goes. It is just a small valve that only allows fluid to flow one way. If you hook up the lines backwards, the valve will close and you will get no fluid flow and thus no heat. You can check this by simply hooking your garden hose to it. Try flowing it both ways and seeing what happens.
I got the heater setup to work last night when i was screwing around with it, I'll try to post some pics and a parts list if anyone else wants to follow lead on this one. It works great when its around 0 degrees F outside it's about 70 in the cab, mind you i only have a strap on canvas an vinyl cover and door for it. (not air tight at all) I managed to toss it all together for about $250 vs. the $850 the dealer wanted. And thanks Tazza and Blaine for your help on this one.
 

rhodges

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Nov 13, 2005
Messages
12
I got the heater setup to work last night when i was screwing around with it, I'll try to post some pics and a parts list if anyone else wants to follow lead on this one. It works great when its around 0 degrees F outside it's about 70 in the cab, mind you i only have a strap on canvas an vinyl cover and door for it. (not air tight at all) I managed to toss it all together for about $250 vs. the $850 the dealer wanted. And thanks Tazza and Blaine for your help on this one.
I would be interested, for sure! I have an 825, and the cab might be somewhat smaller than yours, but maybe with some creativity I can make something work. I have covered up the hole in the ceiling with plexiglas (note: silicone does NOT hang on to plexiglas as well as I thought it would), and am thinking of some ideas about just how to do the hinges on a plexiglas door. I figure that a couple strong magnets can be good for keeping the door closed. Small magnets from hard drives are VERY strong, by the way. And if I could actually get some heat in the cab, I would be in heaven. Plowing snow last week in 20 below zero in an open cab was "a bit uncomfortable" to say the least. Anyway, thanks for any info you can toss our way!
 

753g

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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
44
I would be interested, for sure! I have an 825, and the cab might be somewhat smaller than yours, but maybe with some creativity I can make something work. I have covered up the hole in the ceiling with plexiglas (note: silicone does NOT hang on to plexiglas as well as I thought it would), and am thinking of some ideas about just how to do the hinges on a plexiglas door. I figure that a couple strong magnets can be good for keeping the door closed. Small magnets from hard drives are VERY strong, by the way. And if I could actually get some heat in the cab, I would be in heaven. Plowing snow last week in 20 below zero in an open cab was "a bit uncomfortable" to say the least. Anyway, thanks for any info you can toss our way!
as for enclosing the cab, i have a canvas/clear vinyl tent, if you will straped on. it is made per skid application, i got mine through northern tool and equipment, for about $200us. Plexi-glass however would be way cooler (or hotter in this case) i closed in my rear window and roof opening a few years ago to keep debris from smacking my head through the back and to keep sand and other light dirt out of my hair. I used 0.25: thick plexi for this purpose and automotive type neoprene weather stripping to seal it, just stick it to the plexi-glass and bolt the panel the over the opening on the cage you want to seal. make sure to put weather stipping under the edges of the ROPS too. (keep that nasty wind out) If cost is of concern with the plexi-glass, mind you the stuff will probably never break and it adds saftey from small debris it could probably be done all parts included for under 3 bills from home depot. vs. about $1500 from the dealer and about 700 from after maket groups and half of those don't have weather stripping. As far as the door i'd probably use a rubber cord instead of magnents to keep it closed. The weight of the door and a good bump will flop it open.
 

GILL

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Dec 1, 2005
Messages
57
as for enclosing the cab, i have a canvas/clear vinyl tent, if you will straped on. it is made per skid application, i got mine through northern tool and equipment, for about $200us. Plexi-glass however would be way cooler (or hotter in this case) i closed in my rear window and roof opening a few years ago to keep debris from smacking my head through the back and to keep sand and other light dirt out of my hair. I used 0.25: thick plexi for this purpose and automotive type neoprene weather stripping to seal it, just stick it to the plexi-glass and bolt the panel the over the opening on the cage you want to seal. make sure to put weather stipping under the edges of the ROPS too. (keep that nasty wind out) If cost is of concern with the plexi-glass, mind you the stuff will probably never break and it adds saftey from small debris it could probably be done all parts included for under 3 bills from home depot. vs. about $1500 from the dealer and about 700 from after maket groups and half of those don't have weather stripping. As far as the door i'd probably use a rubber cord instead of magnents to keep it closed. The weight of the door and a good bump will flop it open.
As far as cabs go I took a sheet of 3/8 plywood and managed to cut it to the shape of the side of my enclosure, cut out windows and stapled clear vinyl from Ace hdwe to the openings. I then made a wooden frame and covered it with the same clear vinyl and added loose pin hinges for easy removal. Use a bungee cord inside to keep it closed. Small scraps of used plywood were used on rear window and top. It works as well as vinyl cab from Bobcat and can be done for about $25 if your handy. I made metal clips to hold to enclosure but could be bolted on. I don't have a heater but this sure blocks a lot of wind. Hope this helps. Greg
 

rhodges

Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2005
Messages
12
as for enclosing the cab, i have a canvas/clear vinyl tent, if you will straped on. it is made per skid application, i got mine through northern tool and equipment, for about $200us. Plexi-glass however would be way cooler (or hotter in this case) i closed in my rear window and roof opening a few years ago to keep debris from smacking my head through the back and to keep sand and other light dirt out of my hair. I used 0.25: thick plexi for this purpose and automotive type neoprene weather stripping to seal it, just stick it to the plexi-glass and bolt the panel the over the opening on the cage you want to seal. make sure to put weather stipping under the edges of the ROPS too. (keep that nasty wind out) If cost is of concern with the plexi-glass, mind you the stuff will probably never break and it adds saftey from small debris it could probably be done all parts included for under 3 bills from home depot. vs. about $1500 from the dealer and about 700 from after maket groups and half of those don't have weather stripping. As far as the door i'd probably use a rubber cord instead of magnents to keep it closed. The weight of the door and a good bump will flop it open.
I had not really thought about using clear vinyl, but that sounds like an interesting idea. On my cab, there are three hinge mounts on the left (port) side about one inch long with 3/8 inch holes. I am thinking that maybe I could get 12 feet of 3/8 inch rod (46" + 26" + 46" + 26"), bend it into a rectangular frame around the doorway, and cover it with clear vinyl. Then maybe two magnets for the top and bottom right (starboard) corners and a small bungee in the middle. I think that might just work :) Thanks again for the tips!
 

753g

Active member
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
44
I had not really thought about using clear vinyl, but that sounds like an interesting idea. On my cab, there are three hinge mounts on the left (port) side about one inch long with 3/8 inch holes. I am thinking that maybe I could get 12 feet of 3/8 inch rod (46" + 26" + 46" + 26"), bend it into a rectangular frame around the doorway, and cover it with clear vinyl. Then maybe two magnets for the top and bottom right (starboard) corners and a small bungee in the middle. I think that might just work :) Thanks again for the tips!
this is the site that i got my vinyl/canvas type cover from.

Please remove these characters when posting links
http://
Also be sure there is a space before and after the links and the links will then function. Edited by Skidsteer.ca
www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatDsp?storeId=6970&N=88+1511&Ne=2
 

753g

Active member
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
44
this is the site that i got my vinyl/canvas type cover from.

Please remove these characters when posting links
http://
Also be sure there is a space before and after the links and the links will then function. Edited by Skidsteer.ca
www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatDsp?storeId=6970&N=88+1511&Ne=2
The pics are uploaded and should be on here anytime. I'll get the parts list put together today.
 

heatpumpproducts

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Joined
Jan 4, 2008
Messages
47
The pics are uploaded and should be on here anytime. I'll get the parts list put together today.
I have a L565 skid steer NH , and this week have instaled a heater unit , i got from ebay for 167 canadian . i have bought the controls from the dealer as well as the valve , but had to see a friend with a ls170 to see how the water lines run on his took some pics , will try to post then . i installed and built a box mounted to the top of the ropps at the back .and readded the lights . i take a few more pics as i go . and add them soon . it gets to -20 here and sometimes -30 but i understand its not good to run the machine at that temp . i used a heavy gage pan upside down to hold the one piece blower/heater core and built the sides up with metal panels and selftapping screws (sheet 3/16)and overlaped the corners with angle made of the same . the top is not finished . i hope to use a cover and a one piece hinge that is somewhat weather proof . all said it will be the nice to just have warmth at least . WHILE HAVE SO MUCH FUN ... #1 heater blower 2 speed . #2 control valve dealer part N.H. #3 heater controlers switches and cable #4 5/8" hoses from canadian tire . #5 fittings at the mainfold and water pump (look for the plugs ) #6 90deg & 2xnipples 1/2 " outside dia.
 
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