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Message: <blockquote data-quote="skidsteer.ca" data-source="post: 5487" data-attributes="member: 307">Mine is a meyers, I shortend the push arms as much as I could and still have the plow clear the loader by a few inches when angled. I welded my own quick attach plate right to the push arms, so I can lean on it if I wish. I seldom do, When back blading snow away from building etc, it helps keep the plow from riding up. (it like a ski in that direction) I hooked a piece of wood frozen in the ground once doing this and ripped the partially cracked (unknown to me) pivot for the mold board trip out of the moldboard,  no big deal if you have a welder. Other then that I have had no trouble.I did add a 3rd trip spring as the plow "layed down" pretty easy with just 2.As for orifices I used 2  $20.00   1/8" pipe size,  hyd flow restricter valves from <a href="http://www.surpluscenter.com" target="_blank">www.surpluscenter.com</a> If you don't angle your plow more then once  a minute, the oil will cool enough in the hoses (use something small, 1/4" say) to keep things under control.But go back and forth a couple times and the only way to get the plow to stop where you want is to idle the engine.I'd say about a 1/8" orifice would work, in the colder months I open my valves fully, but if it gets to + 10 f then I chokeing the flow back down.Figure on keeping the plow push arms near level when operating, if you deviate from this too much the corners (one or the other) of the blade will dig in and carry the rest of the blade off the ground. My plow is quite loose where the moldboard pivots on the push arm and  this helps this problem.Truck blades (at lest the std duty meyers) is somewhat light duty compared to the commercial plows, but with care they can be used sucessfully imo.<a href="http://www.perhammachine.com" target="_blank">www.perhammachine.com</a> makes the least expensive  1 piece bracket I know of, $78.00 I believe, there are 2 piece onces on ebay for 65.00 from time to time.Ken</blockquote>

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