Hydraulic Pump leaking at cam access plate.

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rickhoot

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Sep 3, 2024
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In the process of pulling the hydrostatic drive pumps. Leaking at the access plate for the cam bearing forward / reverse pump. A lot of work for a o ring.
Anyone know a short cut?
 
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rickhoot

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Sep 3, 2024
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New Holland LX565! Please forgive me for not giving model. New at trying to communicate on forum. Old and not to IT on top of that.
 

Shanmar

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Aug 27, 2022
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It's not horrible. Need to remove plate 12 by removing bolt 25 and 8 or 9 (I don't remember which is easier). Then you can get to the cam arms 2. Note that 25 will still have a little spring force on it when it comes free, so be ready to catch it and note how the parts go back together. Also, note blocks 11 set the neutral for the pumps so don't remove the 4 bolts in the plate that hold them or else you'll completely loose your neutral setting. Also, the plastic pieces, 9, get worn and would be worth replacing if they have much wear. It will tighten up your control handles. I've also replaced the plate 12 because of wear where the sprind goes thru it.

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This picture shows the pump on its side. But under the arms, remove the plate 30 and then you can get to the seal 28. Part number is 86589834 and is $28.34 on Messicks website. Thinking we carefully and not too deep drilled a small hole in the seal and started a self tapping screw into it to give us something to pull/pry on to get the seal out.
 
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rickhoot

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Sep 3, 2024
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My leak in my pump seems to be coming from the football shaped inspection plate on the bottom of the steering pump. I have removed the hydraulic pumps from the unit, have it on my bench. I would like to reseal all seals including inside the pump. I'm wondering how hard it is to open up each pump and replace bearings and seals. Will the squash pistons fall all out? Might be a job for a hydraulic shop. I figure I would be good to replace them since I have it tore into that deep. Any advice on those pump complexity. Thanks
 

Shanmar

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Aug 27, 2022
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This is the front pump (farthest from the engine). I'd replace 26, 28, and maybe 8 (never known it to be a problem). 35-39 are sandwiched between the two pump and are spacer & washers, not seals. Not sure if I'd worry about 2. Again low problem likely and 1 will certainly be free. Will have to make sure how it is oriented for reassembly. I don't think 13-17 will come out, but not certain without researching more. I've been into a similar pump, but can't recall with certainty.

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This is the rear pump (closest to the engine). Similar story, replace 26, 28, and maybe 8. On this one, 38 is the input shaft seal and definitely replace it. Same story about 2.
 

Shanmar

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Aug 27, 2022
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Since you're that far into it, do a visual check on the flex plate and the splines in it.
 
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rickhoot

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Sep 3, 2024
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The bottom bearing isn't seated. The cover plate has the imprint of the round plug with the o ring. I compared with the speed pump and it is raised up some. Not letting the plug seal seat and seal. The plate with screws is also warped some. Guess pump will have to be torn down.
Thanks so much for all the support. I will get back when I find out more.
 
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rickhoot

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Sep 3, 2024
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I found that this plate was bent, almost like there was downward pressure on the top of the shaft that push the o ring out enough to leak. I noticed if you turn the pump on it's side there is some play back and forth in this pump. Not a lot but some. The cam plate had been riding on top of the shaft in the front and back. Wore spots on the yellow adjustment (neutral cam plate #12). This unit only had one guide on the left side, right was missing.
I'm going to make a thicker plate, add some longer screws, replace the o rings and seals on top. I think this will stop the leak. Readjust all the blocks so they don't rub the top of shafts.
Thanks to everyone, the pump drawings were a great help. I appreciate all you inputs.
 
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rickhoot

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Sep 3, 2024
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I took Shanmar's advice and checked my flex plate hub. When I separated the hydrostatic pump from the motor, it was very rusty. Tried cleaning out the grooves to get a visual. Some seem like they may have material lost. I don't want to take a chance on this 150. 00 dollar part. So I ordered a new one. It's hard to get to. Thanks for the great information and tip on this. I can see getting this unit back together and it spin the flex hub strip out, then have to start over again.
My fuel tank and hydrostatic fluid tank had a lining of dirt in the bottom. Cleaned them both. This thing is beginning to clean up and shape up. Sure was nasty.
 
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