Hydraulic oil flush

[mistersweeper]

Is there a way to flush old oil out of a hydraulic system? I have taken out both piston pumps, hydraulic pump, two spool control valve, auxilary control valve and sent it to Loader Parts Source for overhaul. But before I reinstall all this I would like to clean out the gear case that the pumps mount to and reservoir tank. And I was wondering what is the best method of making sure I get out contaminants before risking old oil into new components.

 

[Tazza]

The only way i know is to let it drain. Mop out the gear case with rags and diesel or kerosene to get any gunk out.
For the hydraulic lines i used compressed air. On tube lines i had out of the machine i used diesel or kero and a small piece of sponge, blow it through the lines to get and grit out.
I hope you get your machine up and running! after all this work, it will be like new.

 

[bobcat_ron]

The only way i know is to let it drain. Mop out the gear case with rags and diesel or kerosene to get any gunk out.
For the hydraulic lines i used compressed air. On tube lines i had out of the machine i used diesel or kero and a small piece of sponge, blow it through the lines to get and grit out.
I hope you get your machine up and running! after all this work, it will be like new.

My old Bobcat T190 did a complete flush every 200 hours, yuppers, a line or a fitting would crack and 10 minutes later everything would stop moving.
Grab a bunch of oil and do it all over again later.

 

[mistersweeper]

My old Bobcat T190 did a complete flush every 200 hours, yuppers, a line or a fitting would crack and 10 minutes later everything would stop moving.
Grab a bunch of oil and do it all over again later.

Tazza, I'm just waiting for everything to come back from LPS, and get my rad back from the rad shop, got it recored. I hope this pays off in the operation of the machine. The next thing, maybe next year is to get the wheel motors overhauled.

 

[Tazza]

Tazza, I'm just waiting for everything to come back from LPS, and get my rad back from the rad shop, got it recored. I hope this pays off in the operation of the machine. The next thing, maybe next year is to get the wheel motors overhauled.

Well you have done everything else, you may as well throw a set of seals at it when time allows.
LOL Ron, thats one way to flush the system! even though it wasn't by choice.....

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

Well you have done everything else, you may as well throw a set of seals at it when time allows.
LOL Ron, thats one way to flush the system! even though it wasn't by choice.....

Mister, have you gotten a price yet on that work? 7 years ago I had the pump and the one drive motor in my medium size backhoe rebuilt at $1700, another $380 for the hoe control valve spools (which didn't solve the leaking).
IMHO, you will far and away surpass in rebuild costs what the machine is worth. Have you considered just offing it and putting that toward a modern, nicer machine. Generally, no one recoups that rebuild money.
Also, if you have a L555, there is also a tunnel that runs from one chain-case to the other and converges under the seat where the strainer is that needs to be flushed out too.
While you have the chain cases open, I'd throw in some decent size magnets to attract any loose steel particles.

 

[Tazza]

Mister, have you gotten a price yet on that work? 7 years ago I had the pump and the one drive motor in my medium size backhoe rebuilt at $1700, another $380 for the hoe control valve spools (which didn't solve the leaking).
IMHO, you will far and away surpass in rebuild costs what the machine is worth. Have you considered just offing it and putting that toward a modern, nicer machine. Generally, no one recoups that rebuild money.
Also, if you have a L555, there is also a tunnel that runs from one chain-case to the other and converges under the seat where the strainer is that needs to be flushed out too.
While you have the chain cases open, I'd throw in some decent size magnets to attract any loose steel particles.

I *think* the rebuilds he is getting done are simple seals, not new motor or pump parts, this makes the job MUCH cheaper. I do agree there is a point that you don't keep throwing money at a machine, but if you can get it up and running for a reasonable cost and you are happy knowing the parts are now rite it is worth that little extra.

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

I *think* the rebuilds he is getting done are simple seals, not new motor or pump parts, this makes the job MUCH cheaper. I do agree there is a point that you don't keep throwing money at a machine, but if you can get it up and running for a reasonable cost and you are happy knowing the parts are now rite it is worth that little extra.

I'd be curious to see the final bill in any event. Even overhauling the valve control cost me the $380--for $3 worth of O-rings. KLuckily I got all my money back the dumb%$#@ that reinstalled it put the lines on backward and still had to redo it. There's nothing like wanting to go up and it goes down, or left and it goes right.

 

[mistersweeper]

I'd be curious to see the final bill in any event. Even overhauling the valve control cost me the $380--for $3 worth of O-rings. KLuckily I got all my money back the dumb%$#@ that reinstalled it put the lines on backward and still had to redo it. There's nothing like wanting to go up and it goes down, or left and it goes right.

The price for overhaul of all the components are $3200.00 at LPS. According to input on this forum, it will be done right at their shop. Remember the machine only cost $1000.00. So, ~ $5000.00 for a skid steer with overhauled hydraulic components ain't bad in my opinion. I plan to use it for pole shed, corral , barn cleaning too which will pay for itself by the end of May.

 

[JACO]

MY MUSTANG BROKE A CHAIN AND HAD TO REPLACE IT . IT HAS ATF OIL IN IT AND JUST USED DEXTRON ? YAY OR NAY ? BUT I THOUGHT AS LONG AS IT WAS ATF WHY NOT THROW A COUPLE OF MAGNETS ON THE BOTTOM LIKE THE CARS HAVE TO CATCH ANY METAL THAT I MAY HAVE MISSED...