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Hydra Mac 8A (Gehl 2500) restoration... or "Oh No... What have I done?"
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<blockquote data-quote="vinito" data-source="post: 96867" data-attributes="member: 12954"><p>I finally got some time to touch on the machine again today. Currently working on painting smaller parts before installing. I'd kind of like to put the axles & wheels back on so I can roll it around easier, so I painted the housings & ends of the axles today. Looks like vines growing in the garage today, with parts ripening up nicely:</p><p><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/tree.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/tree.jpg" alt=" photo tree.jpg" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p>I tried something different that turned out great. I'm just using Rustoleum enamel (farm supply implement enamel will work well too). I bought some yellow, blue, red & black so I could mix it myself and match the color of the other paint. It might be a just slightly non-perfect match, but it turned out pretty darned close which is plenty good. What I ended up with was mostly yellow of course, just a touch of red and another touch of blue. It might not seem like blue would be there looking at it, but after mixing in a little red and holding the sample up to the original, that side-by-side comparison was really pretty easy to see that adding blue would bring it closer.I didn't need the black, but it's handy to have when matching because often it's used to acheive the right hue.</p><p>So that's the lesson for today. If you want to match color, don't be afraid and just jump in and give it a shot. Compare the colors side by side at various angles to the light and you should be able to see that some color or another is needed to make a closer match. It should go without saying that only dry paint should be compared as wet paint always changes color (usually if not always darkens) as it dries, but you can kind of "rough it out" to get close and let it dry before fine-tuning.</p><p>Another tip is this stuff:</p><p><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/hr.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/hr.jpg" alt=" photo hr.jpg" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p>I picked them up from our local Tractor Supply store but you can get it online too. The reducer isn't special really and anything you wish to thin enamels with will be fine, but it was convenient so I used it. The hardener is <em>verry</em> nice though. Unmolested Rustoleum stays tacky for a very long time. I tested the hardener last night and today the paint on the part was not tacky whatsoever and ready to use. It might not make it "totally cured" in one day, but it is a crap-ton better than the Rustoleum is on its own, so I <em>highly</em> recommend it.</p><p>And by the way, I bought a gun from Harbor Freight to do this stuff and it works pretty well. It's a small detail gun so the pattern is small, but that's perfect for the little parts I'm doing right now. For a whole machine the small pattern would be frustratingly slow. This gun is a nice bridge between an airbrush and a full-blown spray rig, and it's dirt cheap ($13 USD) <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html" target="_blank">(link)</a></p><p><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/image_15072.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/image_15072.jpg" alt=" photo image_15072.jpg" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p>So that's it. I'll be painting a few more parts today and soon I'll be doing that "put stuff together" thing I keep talking about.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="vinito, post: 96867, member: 12954"] I finally got some time to touch on the machine again today. Currently working on painting smaller parts before installing. I'd kind of like to put the axles & wheels back on so I can roll it around easier, so I painted the housings & ends of the axles today. Looks like vines growing in the garage today, with parts ripening up nicely: [URL='http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/tree.jpg.html'][IMG alt=" photo tree.jpg"]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/tree.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I tried something different that turned out great. I'm just using Rustoleum enamel (farm supply implement enamel will work well too). I bought some yellow, blue, red & black so I could mix it myself and match the color of the other paint. It might be a just slightly non-perfect match, but it turned out pretty darned close which is plenty good. What I ended up with was mostly yellow of course, just a touch of red and another touch of blue. It might not seem like blue would be there looking at it, but after mixing in a little red and holding the sample up to the original, that side-by-side comparison was really pretty easy to see that adding blue would bring it closer.I didn't need the black, but it's handy to have when matching because often it's used to acheive the right hue. So that's the lesson for today. If you want to match color, don't be afraid and just jump in and give it a shot. Compare the colors side by side at various angles to the light and you should be able to see that some color or another is needed to make a closer match. It should go without saying that only dry paint should be compared as wet paint always changes color (usually if not always darkens) as it dries, but you can kind of “rough it out“ to get close and let it dry before fine-tuning. Another tip is this stuff: [URL='http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/hr.jpg.html'][IMG alt=" photo hr.jpg"]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/hr.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I picked them up from our local Tractor Supply store but you can get it online too. The reducer isn't special really and anything you wish to thin enamels with will be fine, but it was convenient so I used it. The hardener is [I]verry[/I] nice though. Unmolested Rustoleum stays tacky for a very long time. I tested the hardener last night and today the paint on the part was not tacky whatsoever and ready to use. It might not make it “totally cured” in one day, but it is a crap-ton better than the Rustoleum is on its own, so I [I]highly[/I] recommend it. And by the way, I bought a gun from Harbor Freight to do this stuff and it works pretty well. It's a small detail gun so the pattern is small, but that's perfect for the little parts I'm doing right now. For a whole machine the small pattern would be frustratingly slow. This gun is a nice bridge between an airbrush and a full-blown spray rig, and it's dirt cheap ($13 USD) [URL='http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html'](link)[/URL] [URL='http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/image_15072.jpg.html'][IMG alt=" photo image_15072.jpg"]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/image_15072.jpg[/IMG][/URL] So that's it. I'll be painting a few more parts today and soon I'll be doing that "put stuff together” thing I keep talking about. [/QUOTE]
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Hydra Mac 8A (Gehl 2500) restoration... or "Oh No... What have I done?"
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