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Hydra Mac 8A (Gehl 2500) restoration... or "Oh No... What have I done?"
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<blockquote data-quote="vinito" data-source="post: 96514" data-attributes="member: 12954"><p>Thanks Brad. It's good to know folks out there have that much interest. And by the way, here's the specific paint information you asked about.</p><p>The paint is PPG brand PSX700. It is not nearly as bad (lethal) as some two-part paints out there, but still pretty nasty to inhale. All safety methods recommended should be considered and followed. Outdoors with a respirator might be OK, but if it says to use a space suit with clean, positive pressure breathing air supply, I wouldn't ignore that too lightly.</p><p>The two parts:</p><p><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/pmix.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/pmix.jpg" alt=" photo pmix.jpg" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p>My color mix numbers:</p><p><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/plabel.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/plabel.jpg" alt=" photo plabel.jpg" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p>The primer used is pretty good stuff, but not as special and I don't understand why. This stuff makes up for any rust that may still exist apparently. Seems like you'd want that to be as tough as the paint, but I won't argue. In case it's easier to source, Sherwin Williams sells some great alkyd enamels and primer which would also be a good choice for a simpler application. I've used them on machine tools before and it is no slouch either while being less toxic and easier to deal with. Of course we're moving somewhat closer to Tractor Supply and Rustoleum paints, but the SW alkyds are better. You have to order them from their industrial division so I'm not sure how flexible picking colors is going that route. Anyway, here's a pic of the primer:</p><p><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/primer.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/primer.jpg" alt=" photo primer.jpg" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p>I'm getting ready to go work on the hydrostats for a bit. Still have to inspect and measure shafts to make sure seal surfaces aren't grooved & leaky. I've sporadically looked them over briefly before and I think they're OK, but today that will be made definitive (or not depending). Also, the control levers were floppy so I'm making new ones so they'll be tight. At this point there is no excuse for cheaping out and leaving any play anywhere in the controls. Might as well find out what it was like when the thing was new.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="vinito, post: 96514, member: 12954"] Thanks Brad. It's good to know folks out there have that much interest. And by the way, here's the specific paint information you asked about. The paint is PPG brand PSX700. It is not nearly as bad (lethal) as some two-part paints out there, but still pretty nasty to inhale. All safety methods recommended should be considered and followed. Outdoors with a respirator might be OK, but if it says to use a space suit with clean, positive pressure breathing air supply, I wouldn't ignore that too lightly. The two parts: [URL='http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/pmix.jpg.html'][IMG alt=" photo pmix.jpg"]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/pmix.jpg[/IMG][/URL] My color mix numbers: [URL='http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/plabel.jpg.html'][IMG alt=" photo plabel.jpg"]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/plabel.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The primer used is pretty good stuff, but not as special and I don't understand why. This stuff makes up for any rust that may still exist apparently. Seems like you'd want that to be as tough as the paint, but I won't argue. In case it's easier to source, Sherwin Williams sells some great alkyd enamels and primer which would also be a good choice for a simpler application. I've used them on machine tools before and it is no slouch either while being less toxic and easier to deal with. Of course we're moving somewhat closer to Tractor Supply and Rustoleum paints, but the SW alkyds are better. You have to order them from their industrial division so I'm not sure how flexible picking colors is going that route. Anyway, here's a pic of the primer: [URL='http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mikeyphoto/media/primer.jpg.html'][IMG alt=" photo primer.jpg"]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/primer.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I'm getting ready to go work on the hydrostats for a bit. Still have to inspect and measure shafts to make sure seal surfaces aren't grooved & leaky. I've sporadically looked them over briefly before and I think they're OK, but today that will be made definitive (or not depending). Also, the control levers were floppy so I'm making new ones so they'll be tight. At this point there is no excuse for cheaping out and leaving any play anywhere in the controls. Might as well find out what it was like when the thing was new. [/QUOTE]
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Hydra Mac 8A (Gehl 2500) restoration... or "Oh No... What have I done?"
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