DEUTZ BF4M1011F TIMING BELT CHANGE (TOOTHED BELT) DAYCO BELT# 94983 IN KIT USE THIS PROCEDURE AT YOUR OWN RISK !!!!!!!! Read the entire procedure before starting!! This procedure starts after the engine timing area is uncovered. (If you cannot get this far, one probably should take it to a good DEUTZ diesel mechanic!) 1: Remove the cam and crankshaft plugs and discard the CU washers. 2: Install the special cam and crankshaft timing pins in the block completely and tightly, cam first. There is a hole in the cam that lines up with the cam block hole and a machined flat on the crank throw at the crank block hole. If belt is not broken do not remove the belt until both pins are installed. * 3: Remove the belt and tension idler by loosening the Idler. (Over 200 hours discard the belt and idler, reusing the belt mark with directional arrow.) 4: Hold the large outer bolt on camshaft and loosen the center bolt do not allow the large outer bolt to turn; hold it stationary. The center bolt is very tight! When loose the cam sprocket will turn. Do not remove the center bolt. 5: Install the new or used belt ensuring that teeth on the belt line up with all sprockets. Directional arrows if any or printing on the belt should point toward the crank sprocket with arrows or printing legible left to right between the cam and crank sprockets. 6: Install the new or used tension idler and tighten the idler slightly loose. Ensure that the belt aliens with the old tracking area on the sprockets and that the idler is not on the small bolt at lower left of the idler. 7: Insert a hex wrench, turn the idler counter clockwise and tension the belt to the range below, hold the tension and tighten the idler bolt to 45 Nm; recheck the tension. Try again if out of range. Range: 21.7 to 25.3 ft lbs. ** 8: Hold the cam outer bolt and tighten the center bolt to 30Nm plus 210 degrees. Difficult! Do not allow the large outer bolt to turn while tightening! 9: Mark the crank and cam sprockets at the 12 o'clock positions. 10: Remove the cam and crank pins. 11: Rotate the engine with the crank bolt 4 complete clockwise revolutions looking at the belt end ending with the crank mark in the 12 0'clock position. Cam sprocket should be back at the 12 o'clock position also. If not, the crank revolutions were miscounted. 12: Recheck the timing belt tension. It will be tighter than the beginning tension. Range: 47 to 68 ft lbs. 13: Timing Check - Reinstall the cam timing pin only. 14: Apply 40 Nm of torque to crank in clockwise direction as before and release slowly and remove the torque wrench and socket without disturbing crank. 15: Insert the crank pin and turn in by hand until a slight contact with the crank is felt. 16: Put alignment marks on the top of the pin and above it on the block. 17: Screw the pin in and count the revolutions until hand tight. Spec: .75 to 2.25 turns. If not within spec then timing is off. Most likely cause is that outer bolt was allowed to turn when tightening the cam center bolt. Repeat the entire procedure or make judgment call! 18: Reinstall the cam and crankshaft plugs with new CU washers. Gehl skid steers may be started at this point to ensure that it runs without installing removed access parts and allowed to run for a minute or two. If the timing is not correct one will know quickly because there will be interference and therefore bent push rods. Might as well know before putting it all back together and then finding out one has screwed up!!! Inspect the timing belt at 500 & 750 hours and replace as necessary if damage is seen. Replace the timing belt at 1000 hours damaged or not. The lower half of the timing belt cover can be removed and reinstalled (Difficult!) for inspection of the timing belt. Timing belt kits are cheap as compared to engine damage if the belt breaks! *Note: If the belt has broken then there is damage. Most likely push rods which will require push rod replacement, valve lash adjustment and cover gasket. Check everything carefully this is an interference engine! **Note: Any tension gauge maybe use that will indicate the above tension ranges. The tension must be taken midway between the oil pump and cam sprockets in the middle of the belt not the edges. The above procedure worked on my 1998 Gehl 5635 SXT with no problems after several hours of time and many starts. It would have been much easier if DEUTZ engineers had designed the older engines with the newer type tension idler. I guess Germans live and learn just like us. I believe they had trouble with diesel mechanics applying too much tension, damaging the oil pump shaft and destroying the oil pump. There is another procedure on the internet shown applying a lot of tension to the timing belt which in my opinion is too much. I cannot afford oil pump damage so I did a lot of research before attempting this maintenance. It is your engine you decide what to do! There is a tension gauge for around $800 that uses the DEUTZ tension numbers given in the DEUTZ procedure. I contacted DEUTZ and they discontinued the gauge and stated that they have no idea what the units were. They even wanted me to call back if I figured out what the gauge units indicated. DEUTZ's engineer stated basically just tension until tight. I contacted DAYCO engineering; they contacted their overseas office and stated that timing belt pre-tension should be 22-23 ft lbs. Based on DAYCO and my belief that the units used on the gauge are in Kg force - m, I converted to ft lbs, DAYCO's numbers fell within my conversion which gave confidence in my research and I used ft lbs in the above procedure. An elderly mechanic at a local Gehl shop told me he tensioned his first engine by feel back many years ago, ran it a couple of minutes, that the belt came apart, destroyed the push rods and that the shop owner bit the bullet and purchased the DUTZ's tension gauge. That tension gauge, I held and it was in mint condition. The units of measurement were not described on the gauge. USE THE ABOVE PROCEDURE AT YOUR OWN RISK !!!!!!!!
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Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
So Dayco sent me a message that this belt is usually torqued to the same specs you said 22 - 23 ft lbs. The OTC belt gauge that is commonly sold is 30 - 180 lbs. Is this ft lbs? What gauge did you use on the belt? The Dayco tech didn't tell me how or where to measure the 22 - 23 ft lbs at. I responded and asked if you torque the belt tensioner pulley to 22-23 ft lbs. They haven't replied. Getting ready to this on my 863 Bobcat with the same motor. Anyone else have info on this?
Dayco did say to rotate correct number of revolutions and then recheck belt tension at 22-23 ft lbs again. Which is different from your higher 47 - 68 ft lbsSo Dayco sent me a message that this belt is usually torqued to the same specs you said 22 - 23 ft lbs. The OTC belt gauge that is commonly sold is 30 - 180 lbs. Is this ft lbs? What gauge did you use on the belt? The Dayco tech didn't tell me how or where to measure the 22 - 23 ft lbs at. I responded and asked if you torque the belt tensioner pulley to 22-23 ft lbs. They haven't replied. Getting ready to this on my 863 Bobcat with the same motor. Anyone else have info on this?
I contacted Dayco tech again. He said 55 lbs after 4 rotations would be correct. He had mistyped the 22-23 again by mistake.Dayco did say to rotate correct number of revolutions and then recheck belt tension at 22-23 ft lbs again. Which is different from your higher 47 - 68 ft lbs
I borrowed a tension gauge from a mechanic at work and it was his personal tension gauge. Tried to buy it from him but he would not sell. I do not remember the Manufacture or part number and he has passed now. Guess I have to find one when I get ready to change belts again. Its torque range was 10 to 120 ft.lbs. best I can remember.So Dayco sent me a message that this belt is usually torqued to the same specs you said 22 - 23 ft lbs. The OTC belt gauge that is commonly sold is 30 - 180 lbs. Is this ft lbs? What gauge did you use on the belt? The Dayco tech didn't tell me how or where to measure the 22 - 23 ft lbs at. I responded and asked if you torque the belt tensioner pulley to 22-23 ft lbs. They haven't replied. Getting ready to this on my 863 Bobcat with the same motor. Anyone else have info on this?