Case 1830 removing hydraulic pumps/valves

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Mar 8, 2009
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Hi, I am a complete newbie and have just endangered my marriage by buying an old Case uniloader 1830. I got it cheap so it has some issues that I am attempting to work out. I want to do as much work on it as I can myself as spending too much more money will result in castration. The left drive side will either not engage or sticking, so I end up going nowhere or around in circles. I figure it is probably a sticky control valve. If i disconnect the pump, am i going to dump all my hyd fluid on the garage floor? What is the best way to go about it? How hard is it to overhall the pumps and valves etc? I want to get it running as smooth as possible before I transport it out to my bush block. If something breaks out there it will be a hassle to fix with less facilities. Thermal
 
I would start by checking your linkages, it may simply be binding up somewhere between the lever and the swash plate on the pump. There is no valve as such its all done with altering the angle of the swash plates to control how much oil is pumped to each drive motor. Te bolts can come loose where the levers attach to the pump, I'd start here.
 
I would start by checking your linkages, it may simply be binding up somewhere between the lever and the swash plate on the pump. There is no valve as such its all done with altering the angle of the swash plates to control how much oil is pumped to each drive motor. Te bolts can come loose where the levers attach to the pump, I'd start here.
Tazza, You got it in one! I had a good look at it last night and found that a cotter pin had fallen out where the lever attaches to the pump. While I was attempting to replace the pin with a bolt I dropped the bolt. While I was feeling around for the bolt I found the pin!. I Popped it back in and made sure it wont come out and now I'm good to go. Happy days the old girl will live to see another day
 
I have a similar problem i was running the 1830 today and the right side is locking up and wont operate but occasionally it will re engage and work,could this be a bad drive motor or is it something else that can be fixed easily
 
I have a similar problem i was running the 1830 today and the right side is locking up and wont operate but occasionally it will re engage and work,could this be a bad drive motor or is it something else that can be fixed easily
It sounds like it could be the same issue. Do you hear any odd noises or feel shuddering? Check the linkages first, a simple fix is better than tearing into a motor that may be just fine....
 
I have a similar problem i was running the 1830 today and the right side is locking up and wont operate but occasionally it will re engage and work,could this be a bad drive motor or is it something else that can be fixed easily
Another thing to check is to see if the parking brake on one side is stuck. In the winter they are known for sticking. If you take off the foot plate you'll see a small pipe sticking out of both sides where the front drive sprockets are. They will have cables coming out of them that are attacked to the over head safety bar. All you have to do is pull on the cable to the side that isn't moving with the safety bar down. You might want to turn the skid steer off when doing this. The sprocket has a bunch of slots in them for a plunger to slide into them when they line up. Thats why when you lift up the safety bar going down hill it moves a little before it stops. You can also pull on the cables by taking off the seat too. Hope it helps.
 
1979 case 1830 skid steer I have to push the right control very hard forward to get any movement then it goes really slow any help would be greatly appreciated
 
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