Buying new or used?

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Gypsybill

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Joined
Jan 19, 2009
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I have read that skidsteers lose a considerable amount of value after the first 500 hours then level off as they drop in value. I have also read that it is best to buy the newest machine you can afford. Like anyone I want to get the most bang for my buck. Where does the best value lie? Is there a bluebook of skidsteer values that might be helpful? Here is my situation: I will use this machine on a building project I have coming up ( building my own house on 10 acres) and on some land I own but mostly it will sit in a barn not being used. I will use it often just not a lot, nor commercially. It is mostly to keep my 10 acres where I plan to live a long time, in good shape. I am also a terrible mechanic. Another question I have is about the horsepower. What noticeable difference is there in say a 43hp and a 65hp machine? What difference would I notice doing grading a road, landscaping or excavating?
 
Right now the market is incredibly soft. Alot of folks are selling their skidsteers, trailers and dumptrucks because there is no work out there. I just bought a bank repo with 261 hours on it for 40% of what the origiinal purchaser paid for it in September of 2006. It is basically a new machine. I would try to go this route instead of new. Google is your friend. Where are you located?
 
Right now the market is incredibly soft. Alot of folks are selling their skidsteers, trailers and dumptrucks because there is no work out there. I just bought a bank repo with 261 hours on it for 40% of what the origiinal purchaser paid for it in September of 2006. It is basically a new machine. I would try to go this route instead of new. Google is your friend. Where are you located?
I am in Tulsa, Oklahoma. How would I go about finding out about bank repos? Our residential building permits are down 37% since this time last year. Many places have been hit much harder but I feel like there are some good deals out there if I can find them.
 
I am in Tulsa, Oklahoma. How would I go about finding out about bank repos? Our residential building permits are down 37% since this time last year. Many places have been hit much harder but I feel like there are some good deals out there if I can find them.
Figure out what model you want (can't help you out there...I'm a newby like you) and Google it.
 
Figure out what model you want (can't help you out there...I'm a newby like you) and Google it.
I've decided to purchase a twin to what I have now. It's 6 years old with 700 hrs, but it has all the things that a basic machine needs. Big and roomy cab with great visiblity all the way around. Warm in the winter. t-bar controls, no pilot control. you can fine tune and repair manual linkage.Flat front door so I can replace glass locally.Cab lifts so drive train access is great. I can buy filters locally, I know where to buy parts locally. no real dealer up here.Two speed, one of the top five features I would want.
85 hp for a 8500 lb machine plus load is a great power to weight ratio.Power left over OTT or tracks I may or may not want to put on. I can spin the wheels any time.Teir II engine so none of the extra engineering or excessive fuel that come with emission standards The hydralics have been great with one agravating leak in 5000 hrs. Front to back balance is good but I run a big bucket loading end- dump.I don't need no stinking counterweight Stability with loaded bucket is out standiing for a wheeled machine.Another top five choice in my business
Good roll back on the bucket keeps things in. Radial lift has superior digging ability but digging and loading is what I do most. Bucket has double sided cutting edge that you flip over when wore. Bucket hinge has tapered pins that I can shim to adjust out slop. Five minutes to pull hinge pin if needed It still has the lever attach but I can still change attachments and linkage is exposed so I can repair. The adjustment bolt has broken. Replaced both with grade 8.
Mantainance to the chain drive is easy, have had to adjust drive chains once in six years. machine only uses two fluids. Engine oil and hydralic, You need to change engine oil reg, at least I do. provides lub and cooling for engine and cab heat, Have had no leaks in any of the system. It runs #100 drive chain and I think it is plenty strong to run tracks.
Quite a few brands have all these features and are, and maybe I'm wrong, compariable to anything that you can buy now.If things are going to get tough, I want dependability, durability,and a sort of known quanity that I get from a machine that I've had experience with.
The financial part of it is a no-brainer, about $.40 to the $1.00 like the above post. The decision to buy my excavator was to buy new to get the two year warranty cuase iit was new technology and much more complicated system. also none of the used machines had the items that I felt I needed. scott
 
I've decided to purchase a twin to what I have now. It's 6 years old with 700 hrs, but it has all the things that a basic machine needs. Big and roomy cab with great visiblity all the way around. Warm in the winter. t-bar controls, no pilot control. you can fine tune and repair manual linkage.Flat front door so I can replace glass locally.Cab lifts so drive train access is great. I can buy filters locally, I know where to buy parts locally. no real dealer up here.Two speed, one of the top five features I would want.
85 hp for a 8500 lb machine plus load is a great power to weight ratio.Power left over OTT or tracks I may or may not want to put on. I can spin the wheels any time.Teir II engine so none of the extra engineering or excessive fuel that come with emission standards The hydralics have been great with one agravating leak in 5000 hrs. Front to back balance is good but I run a big bucket loading end- dump.I don't need no stinking counterweight Stability with loaded bucket is out standiing for a wheeled machine.Another top five choice in my business
Good roll back on the bucket keeps things in. Radial lift has superior digging ability but digging and loading is what I do most. Bucket has double sided cutting edge that you flip over when wore. Bucket hinge has tapered pins that I can shim to adjust out slop. Five minutes to pull hinge pin if needed It still has the lever attach but I can still change attachments and linkage is exposed so I can repair. The adjustment bolt has broken. Replaced both with grade 8.
Mantainance to the chain drive is easy, have had to adjust drive chains once in six years. machine only uses two fluids. Engine oil and hydralic, You need to change engine oil reg, at least I do. provides lub and cooling for engine and cab heat, Have had no leaks in any of the system. It runs #100 drive chain and I think it is plenty strong to run tracks.
Quite a few brands have all these features and are, and maybe I'm wrong, compariable to anything that you can buy now.If things are going to get tough, I want dependability, durability,and a sort of known quanity that I get from a machine that I've had experience with.
The financial part of it is a no-brainer, about $.40 to the $1.00 like the above post. The decision to buy my excavator was to buy new to get the two year warranty cuase iit was new technology and much more complicated system. also none of the used machines had the items that I felt I needed. scott
A CTL/MTL are the worst for depreciation costs, I lost a 1/3 of my value already, so I'd like to trade it off for a used Takeuchi this Spring and keep my costs lower, no sense in paying big bucks for a machine that will lose value in a year.
 
A CTL/MTL are the worst for depreciation costs, I lost a 1/3 of my value already, so I'd like to trade it off for a used Takeuchi this Spring and keep my costs lower, no sense in paying big bucks for a machine that will lose value in a year.
Ron, you're taling to a couple of neophytes here...CTL/MTL? Something tread loader?
 
Ron, you're taling to a couple of neophytes here...CTL/MTL? Something tread loader?
i have had a 743 bobcat, since 1991, these machines are bullet proof, and i did concrete work with it, so i put it to the limit, the newer machines are nice, although with all sitting that it may do that u might find electrical computer sensors may not like this, a 743 is all about a motor and a few pumps and 36 hp is more than enuf, you will find that one could not take all the abuse at wide open, most of the time it is around half throttle, i have a few thousand hrs in one, my suggestion is that u are looking for some use around your land, this is simple use so keep it simple, u can ask anyone they will tell u, one of the reason that all the changes were made with all computer stuff and magnetic pick ups, is that the 743 and 843 did not break enuf, so changes were made, in the early 90s i can remember guys that 773 were pissed when machine would just quit, because of simple pick ups, and they didn't know why, unless u have alot of money to play with, keep it simple is my suggestion, hope this helps.
 
i have had a 743 bobcat, since 1991, these machines are bullet proof, and i did concrete work with it, so i put it to the limit, the newer machines are nice, although with all sitting that it may do that u might find electrical computer sensors may not like this, a 743 is all about a motor and a few pumps and 36 hp is more than enuf, you will find that one could not take all the abuse at wide open, most of the time it is around half throttle, i have a few thousand hrs in one, my suggestion is that u are looking for some use around your land, this is simple use so keep it simple, u can ask anyone they will tell u, one of the reason that all the changes were made with all computer stuff and magnetic pick ups, is that the 743 and 843 did not break enuf, so changes were made, in the early 90s i can remember guys that 773 were pissed when machine would just quit, because of simple pick ups, and they didn't know why, unless u have alot of money to play with, keep it simple is my suggestion, hope this helps.
Good post. Just the kid of information I need. Thanks...
 
Good post. Just the kid of information I need. Thanks...
Gyp: machinerytrader.com equipmentlocator.com are a couple places to look. New prices are sometimes so low it is hard to believe, at least on JDs; I suspect Bobcats are similar. Prices are down, but then who has the money to buy? Good luck. j
 
Gyp: machinerytrader.com equipmentlocator.com are a couple places to look. New prices are sometimes so low it is hard to believe, at least on JDs; I suspect Bobcats are similar. Prices are down, but then who has the money to buy? Good luck. j
Put the money down yesterday, will close next week.
2001GEHL700HR.jpg picture by LANDTEKK

Started out at $16500. ended up getting it for $13000. Financed it so I wouldn't spend all my cash.Payments of $300 a month verses $735 with new one. having another machine as backup,priceless.
I wanted to get a track system this year but I need to be practical.I'm sure I will have to replace the tracks on the 435 after this season so I'll have to save for that.Scott
 
Put the money down yesterday, will close next week.

Started out at $16500. ended up getting it for $13000. Financed it so I wouldn't spend all my cash.Payments of $300 a month verses $735 with new one. having another machine as backup,priceless.
I wanted to get a track system this year but I need to be practical.I'm sure I will have to replace the tracks on the 435 after this season so I'll have to save for that.Scott
You should have asked for it for just $165 as that sticker says......
 
You should have asked for it for just $165 as that sticker says......
I would have gotten it for $12000 but he owed the consignment lot a few bucks.He was eager to sell and apply what I gave him to a sailboat.I sure could go for a warmer climate right now. Scott
 
I would have gotten it for $12000 but he owed the consignment lot a few bucks.He was eager to sell and apply what I gave him to a sailboat.I sure could go for a warmer climate right now. Scott
Does anyone here know if I need a permit rent out my own bobcat to make a little bit of money to pay for the gas and insurance for the bobcat? thanks.
 

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