building a 14" tree shear

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nailsbeats

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Feb 11, 2007
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I am in the process of building a 14" tree shear for my 763 Bobcat w/ Loegering steel tracks. I have 1" thick cutting edge for blades and was wondering how to bevel it. The top of the blade has a fairly steep factory bevel for 5/8" of the blade thickness, the last 3/8" is flat. I beveled the last 3/8" toward the bottom of the blade to create a "V". Finally I sanded that baby smooth. Will this cut efficiently with 2-5" rams pushing it? I see some factory ones with single bevels and some look like they have a slight double bevel like I described. Any thoughts or experiences?
 
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nailsbeats

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Well. the shear is done! What a powerhouse. I tied into a 14" Elm and it was pushing the machine backwards because the wood was so hard. It eats every sofwood tree it can fit for lunch. I may add a grapple latter, but want to get more hours with it the way it is. One thing on the blades though, I will be making the bottom bevel longer so it will provide less resistance. Had to pick up a carbide bit for the mill for this job because the blades are made out of hardened cutting edge. Hope it will cut fairly efficiently. Out.
 

Tazza

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Well. the shear is done! What a powerhouse. I tied into a 14" Elm and it was pushing the machine backwards because the wood was so hard. It eats every sofwood tree it can fit for lunch. I may add a grapple latter, but want to get more hours with it the way it is. One thing on the blades though, I will be making the bottom bevel longer so it will provide less resistance. Had to pick up a carbide bit for the mill for this job because the blades are made out of hardened cutting edge. Hope it will cut fairly efficiently. Out.
Very nice, do you have any piccies of the beast for us?
 

Mr Jimi

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Jan 30, 2006
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Well. the shear is done! What a powerhouse. I tied into a 14" Elm and it was pushing the machine backwards because the wood was so hard. It eats every sofwood tree it can fit for lunch. I may add a grapple latter, but want to get more hours with it the way it is. One thing on the blades though, I will be making the bottom bevel longer so it will provide less resistance. Had to pick up a carbide bit for the mill for this job because the blades are made out of hardened cutting edge. Hope it will cut fairly efficiently. Out.
Yes, by all means, we need pictures
Jim
 
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nailsbeats

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Yes, by all means, we need pictures
Jim
Well here she is boys. I added some expanded metal on the brushguard today to keep sticks off the lines. Waiting for paint, blades are in the mill waiting for the bit, should be fully completed by the end of the week. Will update pic when new one is available, Enjoy!/i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0784.jpg[/IMG]/P>
 
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nailsbeats

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Well here she is boys. I added some expanded metal on the brushguard today to keep sticks off the lines. Waiting for paint, blades are in the mill waiting for the bit, should be fully completed by the end of the week. Will update pic when new one is available, Enjoy!/i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0784.jpg[/IMG]/P>
Now I think we got something, screwed that first one up.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0784.jpg
 

140mower

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Jun 4, 2006
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Now I think we got something, screwed that first one up.
Looks very nice! Your 763's a pretty nice looking machine as well, definitely out shines mine. Any chance of getting a few more close ups of your shear? I've never seen one in person before and am wondering, do you push the trees over as you shear? How likely is it for a tree to come back on you?
Thanks, Don
 

Tazza

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Looks very nice! Your 763's a pretty nice looking machine as well, definitely out shines mine. Any chance of getting a few more close ups of your shear? I've never seen one in person before and am wondering, do you push the trees over as you shear? How likely is it for a tree to come back on you?
Thanks, Don
I was thinking the same thing, how to stop it falling and damaging the ROPS, you don't want to scuff that pretty machine, looks very clean!.
I'm impressed with the shear too, it looks really good.
 

farmboy55

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Aug 16, 2006
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I was thinking the same thing, how to stop it falling and damaging the ROPS, you don't want to scuff that pretty machine, looks very clean!.
I'm impressed with the shear too, it looks really good.
Looking GOOD, the shear & Bobcat. We will have to get the blueprints & material list. dennis
 
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nailsbeats

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Looks very nice! Your 763's a pretty nice looking machine as well, definitely out shines mine. Any chance of getting a few more close ups of your shear? I've never seen one in person before and am wondering, do you push the trees over as you shear? How likely is it for a tree to come back on you?
Thanks, Don
Here are some more pics if they will help, will try to get better ones later. As far as dropping trees goes; figure out which way it is leaning and get on the back side of it if you can so it falls straight away from you or get beside it so it falls to the side. Don't worry about the small stuff. Once you drop the tree do a half pinch on it, stand it back up, and carry it away. You can also push brush if you have to. There are no blueprints for this animal it is a one of a kind.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0780.jpg

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http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0783.jpg

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0785.jpg
 

trg753

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Nov 8, 2005
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Here are some more pics if they will help, will try to get better ones later. As far as dropping trees goes; figure out which way it is leaning and get on the back side of it if you can so it falls straight away from you or get beside it so it falls to the side. Don't worry about the small stuff. Once you drop the tree do a half pinch on it, stand it back up, and carry it away. You can also push brush if you have to. There are no blueprints for this animal it is a one of a kind.
What a great job on the shear. If you could make a grapple to hold the tree, you would have one great piece of equipment. I have been thinking of building one for myself. Good job. TRG753
 

bobbie-g

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Mar 15, 2004
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Nice job. You can't buy one any nicer.
Keep a eye on you bolts and welds, those 5" rams will put some stress on things.
Ken
Nailsbeat, super job! And that didn't take you long either! What did you use at the pivot points where the blades attach to the frame? I haven't found a good source for cheap pivots yet. 2 3/8 pipe inside of 2 7/8 pipe is just way too klunky, same for 2 1/8 inside of 2 3/8". I want to make a tilting blade, but need a really husky pivot for the center of it, or come up with some other scheme. --- Bob
 

Tazza

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Nailsbeat, super job! And that didn't take you long either! What did you use at the pivot points where the blades attach to the frame? I haven't found a good source for cheap pivots yet. 2 3/8 pipe inside of 2 7/8 pipe is just way too klunky, same for 2 1/8 inside of 2 3/8". I want to make a tilting blade, but need a really husky pivot for the center of it, or come up with some other scheme. --- Bob
Bob - find someone with a lathe and machine a pin and bushing. Make sure you make it so you can replace the bushing just in case it wears out, which i doubt.
I made a set for my 743, they cost be about $20 per metre for 4140 grade steel that i later got nitrided.
Just a cheap option. If you don't have a lathe, what better excuse to buy one :)
 
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nailsbeats

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Nailsbeat, super job! And that didn't take you long either! What did you use at the pivot points where the blades attach to the frame? I haven't found a good source for cheap pivots yet. 2 3/8 pipe inside of 2 7/8 pipe is just way too klunky, same for 2 1/8 inside of 2 3/8". I want to make a tilting blade, but need a really husky pivot for the center of it, or come up with some other scheme. --- Bob
Bob,
I run standard cold rolled steel shaft for my pin and a heavy mild steel bushing. Like Tazza said, I use a lathe to fine tune the fit. Pick a standard size pin or pipe and fit one to the other using the lathe. Also, make sure to put a grease zerk in the pin or pipe. Pivot points are the heart of this piece of equipment, they take all the stress, even if you have to pay a machinist to make them, it is worth it. In this setup, I would recommend a 3" pin with a pipe to fit. Hope this helps.
Nels
 
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nailsbeats

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Bob,
I run standard cold rolled steel shaft for my pin and a heavy mild steel bushing. Like Tazza said, I use a lathe to fine tune the fit. Pick a standard size pin or pipe and fit one to the other using the lathe. Also, make sure to put a grease zerk in the pin or pipe. Pivot points are the heart of this piece of equipment, they take all the stress, even if you have to pay a machinist to make them, it is worth it. In this setup, I would recommend a 3" pin with a pipe to fit. Hope this helps.
Nels
Painted and ready to go! I have put a few hours on it thinning out small elm trees for firewood and it works great. I will add the grapple when I find a job I cant do with this. Don't see the need for the extra weight and size for now.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0826.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0827.jpg
 

papow22

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Apr 6, 2008
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Painted and ready to go! I have put a few hours on it thinning out small elm trees for firewood and it works great. I will add the grapple when I find a job I cant do with this. Don't see the need for the extra weight and size for now.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0826.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t154/nailsbeats/DSCN0827.jpg
Well I must say you have been blessed with a touch to build what most only dream about.For my late father was the same way.My Uncle on my late fathers side told me that my Dad could take a mountain of scrap and turn it into a mountian of GOLD.SO from what I have read and viewed of your inventions I must say you are one of best that do,While I'm one of the rest that turn green with envy.So keep up the EXCELLENT work.
 

Quince

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Mar 7, 2010
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Well I must say you have been blessed with a touch to build what most only dream about.For my late father was the same way.My Uncle on my late fathers side told me that my Dad could take a mountain of scrap and turn it into a mountian of GOLD.SO from what I have read and viewed of your inventions I must say you are one of best that do,While I'm one of the rest that turn green with envy.So keep up the EXCELLENT work.
What grade of steel did you use for the cutting blades? I am looking to build one that can sheer through 20" (only for cutting into firewood)
 
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