Bucket release hose broke. Can't get bucket off to replace.

[speed_demon]

My skidstreer has a hydraulic bucket release and the hose that supplies release pressure is split. If I could get the access panel off it would be no problem but to get to the lower bolts I need to remove the bucket but I can't release the bucket with the split hose. The dealer told me the only way is to remove the other hose and force the pins but they can be difficult to move. Anybody got a better idea? I tried turning the key on, putting by right heal down, and activating the coupler solenoid in both positions but the pins didn't seem to want to move.

 

[Mike10]

You should be able to remove the panels without taking the bucket off, albeit with some difficulty. I assume the lower bolts you are refering to are for the bracket that goes under the hoses. These two bolts are carriage bolts and if they are installed as from the factory the nuts are on the top side of the plate. You can get into them with a wrench to remove them. I would suggest you reverse these bolts on reassembly so the nuts are to the outside. All the other bolts you need to remove the back panel are accessable. The front plate does not need to be removed.

 

[speed_demon]

You should be able to remove the panels without taking the bucket off, albeit with some difficulty. I assume the lower bolts you are refering to are for the bracket that goes under the hoses. These two bolts are carriage bolts and if they are installed as from the factory the nuts are on the top side of the plate. You can get into them with a wrench to remove them. I would suggest you reverse these bolts on reassembly so the nuts are to the outside. All the other bolts you need to remove the back panel are accessable. The front plate does not need to be removed.

Yup the nut are on the top. I wasn't sure if the nuts were welded in. If not I can get them off but the bolts are long and will probably bind up when I try to pull the plate. If I can fit a grinder in maybe just grind of the heads of the bolts?

 

[speed_demon]

Yup the nut are on the top. I wasn't sure if the nuts were welded in. If not I can get them off but the bolts are long and will probably bind up when I try to pull the plate. If I can fit a grinder in maybe just grind of the heads of the bolts?

The bottom bolts ended up being carriage bolts. They were hard to get to but I was able to get the nuts off and the plate cleared, barely. One thing that I don't understand is they routed the hydraulic hoses and actuator wiring in a bundle right under the boom. With the bucket down there is barely enough clearance let alone for the snow and ice that builds. It looks like the bundle got crushed over time and the inside hose was impaled on a protruding edge. Everything needs to be replaced. I'm going to have to find a better way or its just going to happen again.

 

[Mike10]

The bottom bolts ended up being carriage bolts. They were hard to get to but I was able to get the nuts off and the plate cleared, barely. One thing that I don't understand is they routed the hydraulic hoses and actuator wiring in a bundle right under the boom. With the bucket down there is barely enough clearance let alone for the snow and ice that builds. It looks like the bundle got crushed over time and the inside hose was impaled on a protruding edge. Everything needs to be replaced. I'm going to have to find a better way or its just going to happen again.

If you want a permanent fix then you need to move the face plate valve to under the seat from the mounting plate. If you are handy I believe the parts are in the 600.00 to 700.00 range. The ones I have converted run in the 1000.00 to 1100.00 range with labor. The advantage of moving the valve is all you have up front is the cylinder and two hoses and these hoses do not get in the way or get pinched because they are routed differently. Depending on what variation of hyd face plate if you have not had an electrical problem yet you will if you have a ubolt holding the hoses and wire harness. Also depending on what variation you have the pressureized oil could come from the control valve and go all the way to the face plate. Blow this hose and you will go no where. Moving the face plate valve closer to the control valve means you only have a hose 2 ft long that is pressurized when the controls are activated. If you are tee'd into the bucket circuit for pressurized oil this is not as critical. This was the original setup when the hyd face plate came out. If you move the valve the hoses running along the boom will be replace by pipes that are clamped to the boom. This keeps the hoses from being pinched if they come loose.
I have done these conversions for 2 1/2 years now and to my knowledge I have not had an electrical or hydraulic failure yet. Knock on wood. I know what you went through to get to those hoses and when you can not move the unit out of the manure pile it is even a more fun job.

 

[speed_demon]

If you want a permanent fix then you need to move the face plate valve to under the seat from the mounting plate. If you are handy I believe the parts are in the 600.00 to 700.00 range. The ones I have converted run in the 1000.00 to 1100.00 range with labor. The advantage of moving the valve is all you have up front is the cylinder and two hoses and these hoses do not get in the way or get pinched because they are routed differently. Depending on what variation of hyd face plate if you have not had an electrical problem yet you will if you have a ubolt holding the hoses and wire harness. Also depending on what variation you have the pressureized oil could come from the control valve and go all the way to the face plate. Blow this hose and you will go no where. Moving the face plate valve closer to the control valve means you only have a hose 2 ft long that is pressurized when the controls are activated. If you are tee'd into the bucket circuit for pressurized oil this is not as critical. This was the original setup when the hyd face plate came out. If you move the valve the hoses running along the boom will be replace by pipes that are clamped to the boom. This keeps the hoses from being pinched if they come loose.
I have done these conversions for 2 1/2 years now and to my knowledge I have not had an electrical or hydraulic failure yet. Knock on wood. I know what you went through to get to those hoses and when you can not move the unit out of the manure pile it is even a more fun job.

I got the new hoses installed and rewired it. When I got a chance to lower the boom and check the clearance is was obvious the hoses should not have been there. Whatever held it must have come loose and let them swing under the boom. I temporarily tied the hoses so they hang right down the middle of the boom and it seems to be okay. If they bind or I have any more trouble I'll look into the conversion you mentioned but right now all is well. I'm dirty, I'm tired, and it's time to go home. Thanks for the input!