Broken tilt cylinder pin

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140mower

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Well I guess there's not much wondering left, as to what to do about the loose bobtach pin, now I've got to deal with it. I was really hoping this could wait until winter, but now that the pin's broke I'd like to resolve this loose lug problem I've got on the bobtach.
Here is something I found while looking for a possible solution. http://www.expanderamericas.com/
Has any one tried this set-up yet. If so, how did it work out? I see they have a kit to fit my 763, and I think this is the route I'm going to try going.
Any and all opinions appreciated,
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Don
 

Tazza

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Depending on how expensive they are, they seem like it should work.
I just made my pins from 4140 grade steel and got them nitrided.
The only problem i see you having is the wear in the boss that it fits through, you will really need to ream the hole out to get it back to round.
 

140mower

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Depending on how expensive they are, they seem like it should work.
I just made my pins from 4140 grade steel and got them nitrided.
The only problem i see you having is the wear in the boss that it fits through, you will really need to ream the hole out to get it back to round.
Thanks for the reply Tazza, to get by through this job I made a pin out of an old kingpin I found in one of my “valuables” piles, (can't actually throw these things out you know).
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I might be wrong, but the way I understood them, you could “progressively” tighten them as they wear in to the bosses, thus saving the need for any maching work. Sounds kind of like snake oil to me, but I think the bosses in mine are within their specs. and if I can save myself a pile of extra work I'm going to try it as long as the price is somewhat reasonable. After all, someone has to be a Guinea pig in these situations.
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I'll report back as it goes or if it doesn't, why it didn't.

Don
 

Tazza

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Thanks for the reply Tazza, to get by through this job I made a pin out of an old kingpin I found in one of my “valuables” piles, (can't actually throw these things out you know).
I might be wrong, but the way I understood them, you could “progressively” tighten them as they wear in to the bosses, thus saving the need for any maching work. Sounds kind of like snake oil to me, but I think the bosses in mine are within their specs. and if I can save myself a pile of extra work I'm going to try it as long as the price is somewhat reasonable. After all, someone has to be a Guinea pig in these situations. I'll report back as it goes or if it doesn't, why it didn't.

Don
So very true, we all seem to have a stach of *good stuff* that others keep saying why don't you throw that out!!! If you do, there is always something you will later need.
Do let us know how it goes.
 

140mower

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So very true, we all seem to have a stach of *good stuff* that others keep saying why don't you throw that out!!! If you do, there is always something you will later need.
Do let us know how it goes.
I've done some more snooping around on these pins and I'm hearing some very good reviews on them. Not cheap though, at our local machine shop they'll run ya $346.00, but I'm going to do some more looking and see if I can find one a little cheaper before I commit to it.
Don
 

Tazza

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I've done some more snooping around on these pins and I'm hearing some very good reviews on them. Not cheap though, at our local machine shop they'll run ya $346.00, but I'm going to do some more looking and see if I can find one a little cheaper before I commit to it.
Don
Damn! thats pricy.
I paid about 150 AUD for 3m of 1 1/2” and 2m of 1 1/4” 4140 grade steel. Then paid $50 to get them nitrided.
What makes these pins so good? are they have some sort of bearing setup inside them?
The one good thing is, if you use one of these pins, it should out last the machine.
 

140mower

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Jun 4, 2006
Messages
87
Damn! thats pricy.
I paid about 150 AUD for 3m of 1 1/2” and 2m of 1 1/4” 4140 grade steel. Then paid $50 to get them nitrided.
What makes these pins so good? are they have some sort of bearing setup inside them?
The one good thing is, if you use one of these pins, it should out last the machine.
Yeah, I was glad I was sitting when he gave me the price. No, there is no bearing just a taper on each end of the pin then a sleeve slides over with an internal taper. the sleeve has one slit that runs full length and I think three that run about 3/4 of the length to allow for expansion when tightening. The theory is that with a conventional pin the hole has to be bigger than the pin in order to get the pin in, and once you have slight movement, wear begins and accelerates as the tolerances increase. With this set-up, once the pin is tightened and set there is no interference fit and hopefully no wear. And of course, no welding or machining, which brings the pin onto a more level playing field price wise and it should be an afternoon project versus a two day marathon.
Well that looks kind of like an advertisement, but honest I'm no salesman.
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Don
 

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